For the second consecutive day we are being sent home before 10:00pm as the police are coming to 'raid' our academy. According to Korean law, hagwons are not allowed to operate after ten o'clock in the evening. Ours, DYB Choisun Academy, and numerous others show blatant disregard for this statute and stay open much later.
The penalty for being 'caught' is unbeknownst to me but I can't really imagine it being that harsh as nothing in Korea seems to penalized all that seriously. Except of course for making poor grades on mid-term test. However, I don't hesitate to wonder just what would happen if one of the raiding officers took it upon themselves to actually examine one of the numerous schedules posted around the building that clearly evince our illegal hour of operation. . .hmmm.
I have no idea how we know about these 'raids' but I suppose it's good for business that someone is informed ahead of time. Whether this is done intentionally or rather behind close doors, as some suggest, it means only one thing for us FT's. . .going home early!
So, without further ado, I'm outta here!
Happy Weekend!
Friday, June 26, 2009
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
300 Down!
As you might have guessed from the above title, today marks my 300th day in Korea! This is exciting not only because it's such a pretty round number but because it means that I have (approximately) only 65 days left here in the Hermit Kingdom. In order to honor this momentous event, I figured I owe at least some sort of update. Not having anything extraordinary planned to mark this hallowed day, what you'll find below is simply a concoction of recent, yet unreported events. Bear with me here!
First on the list are the events that transpired this past weekend under the guise of a DYB 'membership training' seminar. Early last week, I was approached by Anna about two issues. The first was that we were to begin an office wide Secret Santa like game, maniddo, where each teacher is supposed to surreptitiously shower another with gifts assistance and praise. Of course, my initial question was how this is supposed to remain a secret as the later two seemingly require some sort of interpersonal interaction. Unable to find anyone willing to answer my question, I quickly gave up on the matter figuring it would be to my maniddos disadvantage if they didn't take the time to explain it to me!
Turns out I was lucky enough to draw Terry which made associating with my maniddo less strenuous as I had imagined it could be had I chosen one of our numerous employees that I simply do not interact with on a daily basis. To get my showering of gifts over with quickly I simply asked Terry to come out for chicken and beer (if you haven't figured it out by know, this a Korean standard, don't ask why, it just is) and insisted on picking up the check. This was not an all together easy feat as she out ranks me in both age and status which, in this Confucian society, means that I am in no way obliged to be covering the tab. Even so, I was able to complete my mini-mission and make it even more convincing by talking the whole time about how I don't know what to do for my maniddo. How mendacious of me, right!?
The second matter of business that Anna addressed us all about on Tuesday was the weekend's upcoming 'membership training' seminar. While few details were disclosed at that time, Anna insisted that it would have three parts, 'dinner,' a 'serious part,' and then lastly the intemperate 'drunken part.' The one thing that was made clear was that sleep would be limited. As exciting as it sounded to get out of Seoul for the weekend, you can imagine how unappealing such an offer is when limited sleeping (usually my favorite weekend activity) is promised along with the company of only coworkers (those that I certainly, no offense, get enough of during the work week).
Come Saturday I was feeling confident about my maniddo responsibilities as I had slipped Terry a movie theater sized box of Skittles (thanks Dad) and a Starbucks gift card (or 'money check' as they refer to them here) during the course of the week. While she questioned me about it once, I quickly denied any knowledge of the gift bearer. As for me, I received a few kinda sticky notes accompanied by a delicious bottle of apple juice, and odd rice drink and on Friday, a package of chocolate covered nuts accompanied by a rather prurient love note. The later 'gift' sent me reeling as the grammatically incorrect ballad read like a veritable Korean translation making me question whether it was a joke or a terribly unrestrained lustful confession. Nevertheless, the letter assured me that my paramour would come forth on Saturday evening. . . now I really had something to look forward too!
After grabbing lunch with Steve in Itaewon, Nate and I headed back towards Junggye to get ready for our 6:00pm departure. Not wanting to miss my final soccer game of the season, I stuffed my backpack full of cleats and uniforms, leaving little room for anything else. I hoped, and was correct, in that it didn't matter. One thing I did bring however was my bathing suit as Terry had called the night before to let Nate and I know that we might go tubing during the 'camping trip.' I asked her if that meant we should bring bathing suits to which she responded 'No, just a change of clothes.'
This is hilariously indicative of Korean's conservative attitudes towards revealing ones body in public. While they (yes, I know this is a generalization but you find a better way to say what I'm trying to say) refuse to expose themselves on a beach or under the warm summer sun, these same people have no problem stripping down and walking around jimjilbangs (saunas/spas) in the buff, sharing showers, baths, and coffee all while completely naked. Yet, try to take your shirt off while tubing on a river and one is instantly made to feel ignominious. Just ask Nate!
What a shocking move!
(Photo courtesy of NMK Studios)
So, with a backpack stuffed with nothing of real use I met up with the teachers just as they were exiting DYB headed for a small shuttle bus that normal whips our students to and fro academy in the evenings. In their matching shirts, I couldn't help but chuckle at the seriousness with which this outing seemed to be taken. Apparently, 'teams' had already be chosen and sides were represented by one of two colored smiley face t's. . .see below for a visual.
Dddd Yy Bb!
(Photo courtesy of NMK Studios)
A two hour cramped bus ride later and we were dumped out into the remote darkness of Pyeonchang. Not only did I later learn that we weren't too far from the ski resort that we had visited over Lunar New Year but that the city is currently trying to put in an official bid for the upcoming Winter Olympics. Not sure where they'd host any of the downhill events but it's Korea, I'm sure they'll find a way!
Loadin' up
(Photo courtesy of NMK Studios)
After unloading all our luggage (or lack there of, most of the Korean teachers brought nothing more than a decent sized purse) into the 'homey' four bedroom cabin, we headed outside to a long picnic table for a very traditional work related dinner. While food and beverage were abound, the main difference was that we did not cook the food directly at our table but rather Joseph (who we were happy to have accompany us on this trip despite no longer working at Junggye) and one of DYB's higher lever managers (who is also apparently our 'branch supervisor') cooked the samgyeopsal over two freestanding charcoal grills. Even so, dinner was delicious and excessive as always.
Joseph and I working hard to get dinner ready!
As everyone began reaching their personal satiety, the focused shifted from dinner to one of two 'serious parts' of the weekend. In this phase of the evening, each person had to stand and covertly describe their maniddo while the others tried to guess who it was. Then the maniddo had to take the stage and praise the work of their personal agent. This continued on for some time as each pair was forced to take a 'love shot' (or two) of soju. The only thing I gained from this experience was the knowledge that my licentious love note was in fact a joke that had nothign to do with my maniddo but rather was planted by Razer to arouse suspicion. This was by far the funniest thing that I have seen a Korean execute that didn't involve self humiliation in some way, shape, or form.
The Spread!
Growing extremely tired of the repetitive nature of these speeches, I was quick to agree to play the guitar for Razer who at one point decided it necessary to belt out a sloppy rendition of much rehearsed and once extremely tight 'DYB Song.' While I too intended on performing a version of the 'Mr. Song' song, I didn't end up getting around to it before we were all forced to go inside at the request of the couple who was staying in an adjacent room attached to our main cabin. I pity their choice of vacation date and location! I can only hope that this cherubic couple was offered some sort of compensation by the pension which presumably derived a rather hefty profit from hosting our over sized and soju suffused group of noisy teachers.
Straight Grillin'
Bringing the meeting inside did not at all put an end to the festivities. Sitting in a large circle on the hard wooden floor, a number of games continued long into the night. By this time, everyone had either forgotten that Nate and I were presented or simply didn't care to take the time and effort to explain what was going on in English. Thus, the two of us were forced to sit there dumbstruck at the ridiculousness that ensued. Some teachers simply keeled over and continued trying to play while others looked to be in such bad shape that they were dragged off to bed. Now by bed I mean the floor as this capacious cabin had only one actual bed that was shared by merely two of the dozen plus teachers. . .mmmm, luxurious living!
Despite not understanding the progression of the games at hand, I was intermittently told to drink for I had unknowingly done something wrong. This I refused to do and simply curled up in a ball on the floor doing my best to eschew the mayhem. No matter how hard I tried, doing so was simply impossible as I was routinely badgered for putting my head down and not participating. . .um, okay, just explain the game to me.
A love shot with his pepoo!
Eventually, sometime around 4:30am, we were told that the nights activities were over and it was time for bed. Settling into the small bedroom that Nate and I had earlier staked as the Native Room, we were quickly kicked out by a larger group of Korean teachers who insisted we were too spend the night in the main room with Joseph and the remnants of the evening's entertainment. As mentioned earlier, our bedding was no more than a Korean yeo, or thick blanket placed on the floor. Not only were Joseph's pre-bedtime antics hilarious, to say the least, but our laughter managed to keep the teachers up for at least a half hour beyond their prescribed bed time which, though it might have pissed them off a bit, I feel somewhat righteous for doing as they would soon subject me to much, much worse. . . .
An enthralling evening, can't you tell. . .
It didn't seem like more than a second had passed before I awoke to Anna romping through the house belting out the shrillest wake up call I have heard since the 250 feral alarm clocks that roused me each morning in Ghana. This tirade continued on for what seemed like an eternity as I heard teachers grumble in to the shower and out to the picnic table for breakfast. Note that I say 'heard' and not 'saw' as I myself simply refused to budge. My weekends are allocated to resting and enjoying myself, not early morning wake up calls and DYB-isms. Thus, with Joseph tucked in tightly against me on the floor, I held my spot, eyes glued shut, all throughout breakfast. I knew I wouldn't be missing much here as I had Terry confirm my suspicion the prior night that there would be no eggs, bacon, toast or pancakes to be seen. Thus, breakfast was not in my game plan!
After everyone had eaten, and I had napped a few precious extra minutes of shuteye, I was eventually lured out of bed by Razer's guitar. Unfortunately, just as I leaned over to take it from him (oooo how I miss the vibrations of a full sized acoustic, though don't get me wrong, I love my Baby Taylor, which incidentally might be going up on the chopping block soon, see Craig's List Korea for details), we were called outside for the second half of the 'serious part,' speeches. I had been delighted when, the night before, we were informed that the speeches section would be delayed until morning due to our late arrival. Unfortunately at that time I didn't fully consider the repercussions of a samgyeopsal party followed by two hour of 'sleep.'
We had been informed of these speeches ahead of time but Anna had (purposely?) been rather vague in explaining the subject matter, merely portending that they were to be very, very serious. Here's what I was able to surmise ahead of time. We were supposed to talk about our past, present and future discussion the different emotions, goals and accomplishments associated with each. We were also to address our personality flaws and fundamentals while relating the whole thing to our experience working at DYB. Apparently, the speeches were supposed to be wrapped up with some grand 'resolution' about our personal role in further DYB Junggye Branch and helping it to reach it's ideal enrollment of 1000 students. (For reference, we currently have somewhere around 500 students and I would consider both the teachers and physical space completely exhausted. . .so good luck Junggye!)
Previously, as I had plenty of down time on the bus ride to the site, I had actually considered attempting to address the majority of these topics. Sure, everything regarding my role in DYB would be fudged and nothing about my personal life would be revealed other than a rosy version of my time in Korea but, at least I had intended on trying. That all changed Sunday morning. For three hours I sat in the chilly morning on a hard, short, uncomfortable wooden bench listening to Korean teachers give tear jerking stories about their failed lives in a language that I understand not a lick of. I was hungry, tired and plain old pissed off at the fact that I was forced to sit through this when earlier in the week Terry had promised me the weekend would be 'in English' to test the other teachers' linguistic perspicacity.
I know it might sound a bit like whining to say 'oh, I had to go on vacation, eat and drink for free all night, then wake up and listen to a bit of seriousness that in all honesty I could zone out,' but believe me, this was worse that torture. To sit there and pretend like what was going on mattered was simply a joke. It didn't take me long to just close my eyes and totter back and forth. This only lasted a few seconds however before the Branch Supervisor, sitting across from me, tossed me a swift kick under the table. After the first few torturous hours I began to let hold of anything I was previously doing to belie my annoyance with the situation. While at one point I simply got up to go fetch some bananas from inside, it was only too soon before I had to reluctantly trod back out to the confession session.
By the time it was my turn to make an announcement I spent no more than five minutes telling my audience about how I enjoy Always Doing Always Moving (did you catch the acronym?). What my point came down to was that I've been in Korea for more than long enough and it was time for me to embark on a new adventure which I am eagerly anticipating. I felt this topic to be most relevant as I was well aware that at the onset of this trip, the goal of a number of teachers was to try and persuade Nate and I both to resign our contracts and stay longer with DYB. While I never have and do not intend to ever do so, I have little problem addressing the issue of my eventual departure though normally I do so with much greater restraint.
Finally, after about three and a half hours of these continuous, indecipherable screeds, Razer stood up and insisted that he must leave as he had certain business, I believe of the ecclesiastical order, to attend to. I too excused myself (or maybe I didn't) and turned to hop in the car with him as I had expressed that my commitment to my soccer team was as long lasting as that to DYB and my last regular season game was not to be missed. Thankfully, Razer agreed to pack me in and less than an hour later I was back in the comfort of my Doota abode. While I say I was lucky to get out of there, after only another hour or so of speeches, the 'serious part' broke down into an afternoon of water sports which I am somewhat disappointed I missed. Though it would have been great fun to go tubing, I wouldn't have traded my last game in for it and am certainly glad that I made it back in time. Thanks a bunch Razer!
As for Sunday afternoon, well, that's already been covered, just check below if you missed it! I tried to vote for myself today (hey, why not?) for defensive player of the year but it turns out you're not allowed to vote for anyone on your own team and you have to click a button verifying that you didn't. I'm all for self predilection but I couldn't bring myself to lie to the cyberworld about voting for a teammate. . .oh well, we'll see if anyone else noticed me other than Sun. I doubt it but, then again, you never know! The results will be disclosed this Saturday at an awards banquet in Gangnam. Apparently, no one from our team showed up last time except for Sun and as of now, no one but him has RSVP'd. I can't say I'm dying to go and mingle with fellow league players, none of whom I know, but I think I'll go just to show support for Sun as he's been such a helpful mentor here. I just hope the buffet is worth 18,000 won!
I know the weekend wasn't that bad and obviously the teachers' nefarious agenda was meant as a sort of solidarity generating technique. The part that I just can't get over is that it did nothing to create such a feeling for anyone but the Korean teachers. Sure, there were a dozen of them and only two of us 'Natives' but then again, we're the one's that they're trying to get to stick around. Or maybe, are they really more worried about everyone else leaving? Now that I think about it, that's likely the much bigger issue for them as the KT's continue to drop like flies. Just last month we lost another newer member, Ja Young who was replaced by the kind but rather eccentric Susan (Ho In). At the rate they're going, the DYB I will say good bye to in a few months time will be almost entirely different from that which I joined last August. I wonder if these sort of seminars help, or hurt their cause. I guess that's not for me to worry about now is it!
Well look at how time flies! And didn't I say just a few thousand words ago that I had nothing substantial to report on this momentous day? Whoulda thunk it'd all just come rushing out like that! As for the other updates I was going to leave you with, well, don't worry about 'em now. I'll save it for sometime when I've got nothing left to rant about. When'll that be? Well, your guess is as good as mine!
Goodnight and Happy 300!
(*While reading, I have recently begun the practice of writing down, and subsequently looking up, words that I am unfamiliar with. Although I've been told to do this for years, I've never actual done so until now. Not surprisingly, I rather enjoy doing so as I feel like it's opening a whole new literary world to me. In the past, I have never minded simply skimming over unrecognizable words whereas now I am eager to learn their meaning which I write down in my school/work notebook. In order to help me better remember these new words, I have tried to slip them into both conversation and most recently, my writing. The above posts contains 10 or so of these 'new words/phrases' borrowed from authors Tom Robbins, Paul Theroux, Kevin Gotham, Jon Krakauer and David Grazian. I don't doubt that the majority of these are used incorrectly as I am hardly familiar with the terms. Even so, I find it's worth the practice and I'll eagerly accept any critique that you might be willing to offer! Can you find all 10!?)
First on the list are the events that transpired this past weekend under the guise of a DYB 'membership training' seminar. Early last week, I was approached by Anna about two issues. The first was that we were to begin an office wide Secret Santa like game, maniddo, where each teacher is supposed to surreptitiously shower another with gifts assistance and praise. Of course, my initial question was how this is supposed to remain a secret as the later two seemingly require some sort of interpersonal interaction. Unable to find anyone willing to answer my question, I quickly gave up on the matter figuring it would be to my maniddos disadvantage if they didn't take the time to explain it to me!
Turns out I was lucky enough to draw Terry which made associating with my maniddo less strenuous as I had imagined it could be had I chosen one of our numerous employees that I simply do not interact with on a daily basis. To get my showering of gifts over with quickly I simply asked Terry to come out for chicken and beer (if you haven't figured it out by know, this a Korean standard, don't ask why, it just is) and insisted on picking up the check. This was not an all together easy feat as she out ranks me in both age and status which, in this Confucian society, means that I am in no way obliged to be covering the tab. Even so, I was able to complete my mini-mission and make it even more convincing by talking the whole time about how I don't know what to do for my maniddo. How mendacious of me, right!?
The second matter of business that Anna addressed us all about on Tuesday was the weekend's upcoming 'membership training' seminar. While few details were disclosed at that time, Anna insisted that it would have three parts, 'dinner,' a 'serious part,' and then lastly the intemperate 'drunken part.' The one thing that was made clear was that sleep would be limited. As exciting as it sounded to get out of Seoul for the weekend, you can imagine how unappealing such an offer is when limited sleeping (usually my favorite weekend activity) is promised along with the company of only coworkers (those that I certainly, no offense, get enough of during the work week).
Come Saturday I was feeling confident about my maniddo responsibilities as I had slipped Terry a movie theater sized box of Skittles (thanks Dad) and a Starbucks gift card (or 'money check' as they refer to them here) during the course of the week. While she questioned me about it once, I quickly denied any knowledge of the gift bearer. As for me, I received a few kinda sticky notes accompanied by a delicious bottle of apple juice, and odd rice drink and on Friday, a package of chocolate covered nuts accompanied by a rather prurient love note. The later 'gift' sent me reeling as the grammatically incorrect ballad read like a veritable Korean translation making me question whether it was a joke or a terribly unrestrained lustful confession. Nevertheless, the letter assured me that my paramour would come forth on Saturday evening. . . now I really had something to look forward too!
After grabbing lunch with Steve in Itaewon, Nate and I headed back towards Junggye to get ready for our 6:00pm departure. Not wanting to miss my final soccer game of the season, I stuffed my backpack full of cleats and uniforms, leaving little room for anything else. I hoped, and was correct, in that it didn't matter. One thing I did bring however was my bathing suit as Terry had called the night before to let Nate and I know that we might go tubing during the 'camping trip.' I asked her if that meant we should bring bathing suits to which she responded 'No, just a change of clothes.'
This is hilariously indicative of Korean's conservative attitudes towards revealing ones body in public. While they (yes, I know this is a generalization but you find a better way to say what I'm trying to say) refuse to expose themselves on a beach or under the warm summer sun, these same people have no problem stripping down and walking around jimjilbangs (saunas/spas) in the buff, sharing showers, baths, and coffee all while completely naked. Yet, try to take your shirt off while tubing on a river and one is instantly made to feel ignominious. Just ask Nate!
What a shocking move!(Photo courtesy of NMK Studios)
So, with a backpack stuffed with nothing of real use I met up with the teachers just as they were exiting DYB headed for a small shuttle bus that normal whips our students to and fro academy in the evenings. In their matching shirts, I couldn't help but chuckle at the seriousness with which this outing seemed to be taken. Apparently, 'teams' had already be chosen and sides were represented by one of two colored smiley face t's. . .see below for a visual.
Dddd Yy Bb!(Photo courtesy of NMK Studios)
A two hour cramped bus ride later and we were dumped out into the remote darkness of Pyeonchang. Not only did I later learn that we weren't too far from the ski resort that we had visited over Lunar New Year but that the city is currently trying to put in an official bid for the upcoming Winter Olympics. Not sure where they'd host any of the downhill events but it's Korea, I'm sure they'll find a way!
Loadin' up(Photo courtesy of NMK Studios)
After unloading all our luggage (or lack there of, most of the Korean teachers brought nothing more than a decent sized purse) into the 'homey' four bedroom cabin, we headed outside to a long picnic table for a very traditional work related dinner. While food and beverage were abound, the main difference was that we did not cook the food directly at our table but rather Joseph (who we were happy to have accompany us on this trip despite no longer working at Junggye) and one of DYB's higher lever managers (who is also apparently our 'branch supervisor') cooked the samgyeopsal over two freestanding charcoal grills. Even so, dinner was delicious and excessive as always.
Joseph and I working hard to get dinner ready!As everyone began reaching their personal satiety, the focused shifted from dinner to one of two 'serious parts' of the weekend. In this phase of the evening, each person had to stand and covertly describe their maniddo while the others tried to guess who it was. Then the maniddo had to take the stage and praise the work of their personal agent. This continued on for some time as each pair was forced to take a 'love shot' (or two) of soju. The only thing I gained from this experience was the knowledge that my licentious love note was in fact a joke that had nothign to do with my maniddo but rather was planted by Razer to arouse suspicion. This was by far the funniest thing that I have seen a Korean execute that didn't involve self humiliation in some way, shape, or form.
The Spread!Growing extremely tired of the repetitive nature of these speeches, I was quick to agree to play the guitar for Razer who at one point decided it necessary to belt out a sloppy rendition of much rehearsed and once extremely tight 'DYB Song.' While I too intended on performing a version of the 'Mr. Song' song, I didn't end up getting around to it before we were all forced to go inside at the request of the couple who was staying in an adjacent room attached to our main cabin. I pity their choice of vacation date and location! I can only hope that this cherubic couple was offered some sort of compensation by the pension which presumably derived a rather hefty profit from hosting our over sized and soju suffused group of noisy teachers.
Straight Grillin'Bringing the meeting inside did not at all put an end to the festivities. Sitting in a large circle on the hard wooden floor, a number of games continued long into the night. By this time, everyone had either forgotten that Nate and I were presented or simply didn't care to take the time and effort to explain what was going on in English. Thus, the two of us were forced to sit there dumbstruck at the ridiculousness that ensued. Some teachers simply keeled over and continued trying to play while others looked to be in such bad shape that they were dragged off to bed. Now by bed I mean the floor as this capacious cabin had only one actual bed that was shared by merely two of the dozen plus teachers. . .mmmm, luxurious living!
Despite not understanding the progression of the games at hand, I was intermittently told to drink for I had unknowingly done something wrong. This I refused to do and simply curled up in a ball on the floor doing my best to eschew the mayhem. No matter how hard I tried, doing so was simply impossible as I was routinely badgered for putting my head down and not participating. . .um, okay, just explain the game to me.
A love shot with his pepoo!Eventually, sometime around 4:30am, we were told that the nights activities were over and it was time for bed. Settling into the small bedroom that Nate and I had earlier staked as the Native Room, we were quickly kicked out by a larger group of Korean teachers who insisted we were too spend the night in the main room with Joseph and the remnants of the evening's entertainment. As mentioned earlier, our bedding was no more than a Korean yeo, or thick blanket placed on the floor. Not only were Joseph's pre-bedtime antics hilarious, to say the least, but our laughter managed to keep the teachers up for at least a half hour beyond their prescribed bed time which, though it might have pissed them off a bit, I feel somewhat righteous for doing as they would soon subject me to much, much worse. . . .
An enthralling evening, can't you tell. . .It didn't seem like more than a second had passed before I awoke to Anna romping through the house belting out the shrillest wake up call I have heard since the 250 feral alarm clocks that roused me each morning in Ghana. This tirade continued on for what seemed like an eternity as I heard teachers grumble in to the shower and out to the picnic table for breakfast. Note that I say 'heard' and not 'saw' as I myself simply refused to budge. My weekends are allocated to resting and enjoying myself, not early morning wake up calls and DYB-isms. Thus, with Joseph tucked in tightly against me on the floor, I held my spot, eyes glued shut, all throughout breakfast. I knew I wouldn't be missing much here as I had Terry confirm my suspicion the prior night that there would be no eggs, bacon, toast or pancakes to be seen. Thus, breakfast was not in my game plan!
After everyone had eaten, and I had napped a few precious extra minutes of shuteye, I was eventually lured out of bed by Razer's guitar. Unfortunately, just as I leaned over to take it from him (oooo how I miss the vibrations of a full sized acoustic, though don't get me wrong, I love my Baby Taylor, which incidentally might be going up on the chopping block soon, see Craig's List Korea for details), we were called outside for the second half of the 'serious part,' speeches. I had been delighted when, the night before, we were informed that the speeches section would be delayed until morning due to our late arrival. Unfortunately at that time I didn't fully consider the repercussions of a samgyeopsal party followed by two hour of 'sleep.'
We had been informed of these speeches ahead of time but Anna had (purposely?) been rather vague in explaining the subject matter, merely portending that they were to be very, very serious. Here's what I was able to surmise ahead of time. We were supposed to talk about our past, present and future discussion the different emotions, goals and accomplishments associated with each. We were also to address our personality flaws and fundamentals while relating the whole thing to our experience working at DYB. Apparently, the speeches were supposed to be wrapped up with some grand 'resolution' about our personal role in further DYB Junggye Branch and helping it to reach it's ideal enrollment of 1000 students. (For reference, we currently have somewhere around 500 students and I would consider both the teachers and physical space completely exhausted. . .so good luck Junggye!)
Previously, as I had plenty of down time on the bus ride to the site, I had actually considered attempting to address the majority of these topics. Sure, everything regarding my role in DYB would be fudged and nothing about my personal life would be revealed other than a rosy version of my time in Korea but, at least I had intended on trying. That all changed Sunday morning. For three hours I sat in the chilly morning on a hard, short, uncomfortable wooden bench listening to Korean teachers give tear jerking stories about their failed lives in a language that I understand not a lick of. I was hungry, tired and plain old pissed off at the fact that I was forced to sit through this when earlier in the week Terry had promised me the weekend would be 'in English' to test the other teachers' linguistic perspicacity.
I know it might sound a bit like whining to say 'oh, I had to go on vacation, eat and drink for free all night, then wake up and listen to a bit of seriousness that in all honesty I could zone out,' but believe me, this was worse that torture. To sit there and pretend like what was going on mattered was simply a joke. It didn't take me long to just close my eyes and totter back and forth. This only lasted a few seconds however before the Branch Supervisor, sitting across from me, tossed me a swift kick under the table. After the first few torturous hours I began to let hold of anything I was previously doing to belie my annoyance with the situation. While at one point I simply got up to go fetch some bananas from inside, it was only too soon before I had to reluctantly trod back out to the confession session.
By the time it was my turn to make an announcement I spent no more than five minutes telling my audience about how I enjoy Always Doing Always Moving (did you catch the acronym?). What my point came down to was that I've been in Korea for more than long enough and it was time for me to embark on a new adventure which I am eagerly anticipating. I felt this topic to be most relevant as I was well aware that at the onset of this trip, the goal of a number of teachers was to try and persuade Nate and I both to resign our contracts and stay longer with DYB. While I never have and do not intend to ever do so, I have little problem addressing the issue of my eventual departure though normally I do so with much greater restraint.
Finally, after about three and a half hours of these continuous, indecipherable screeds, Razer stood up and insisted that he must leave as he had certain business, I believe of the ecclesiastical order, to attend to. I too excused myself (or maybe I didn't) and turned to hop in the car with him as I had expressed that my commitment to my soccer team was as long lasting as that to DYB and my last regular season game was not to be missed. Thankfully, Razer agreed to pack me in and less than an hour later I was back in the comfort of my Doota abode. While I say I was lucky to get out of there, after only another hour or so of speeches, the 'serious part' broke down into an afternoon of water sports which I am somewhat disappointed I missed. Though it would have been great fun to go tubing, I wouldn't have traded my last game in for it and am certainly glad that I made it back in time. Thanks a bunch Razer!
As for Sunday afternoon, well, that's already been covered, just check below if you missed it! I tried to vote for myself today (hey, why not?) for defensive player of the year but it turns out you're not allowed to vote for anyone on your own team and you have to click a button verifying that you didn't. I'm all for self predilection but I couldn't bring myself to lie to the cyberworld about voting for a teammate. . .oh well, we'll see if anyone else noticed me other than Sun. I doubt it but, then again, you never know! The results will be disclosed this Saturday at an awards banquet in Gangnam. Apparently, no one from our team showed up last time except for Sun and as of now, no one but him has RSVP'd. I can't say I'm dying to go and mingle with fellow league players, none of whom I know, but I think I'll go just to show support for Sun as he's been such a helpful mentor here. I just hope the buffet is worth 18,000 won!
I know the weekend wasn't that bad and obviously the teachers' nefarious agenda was meant as a sort of solidarity generating technique. The part that I just can't get over is that it did nothing to create such a feeling for anyone but the Korean teachers. Sure, there were a dozen of them and only two of us 'Natives' but then again, we're the one's that they're trying to get to stick around. Or maybe, are they really more worried about everyone else leaving? Now that I think about it, that's likely the much bigger issue for them as the KT's continue to drop like flies. Just last month we lost another newer member, Ja Young who was replaced by the kind but rather eccentric Susan (Ho In). At the rate they're going, the DYB I will say good bye to in a few months time will be almost entirely different from that which I joined last August. I wonder if these sort of seminars help, or hurt their cause. I guess that's not for me to worry about now is it!
Well look at how time flies! And didn't I say just a few thousand words ago that I had nothing substantial to report on this momentous day? Whoulda thunk it'd all just come rushing out like that! As for the other updates I was going to leave you with, well, don't worry about 'em now. I'll save it for sometime when I've got nothing left to rant about. When'll that be? Well, your guess is as good as mine!
Goodnight and Happy 300!
(*While reading, I have recently begun the practice of writing down, and subsequently looking up, words that I am unfamiliar with. Although I've been told to do this for years, I've never actual done so until now. Not surprisingly, I rather enjoy doing so as I feel like it's opening a whole new literary world to me. In the past, I have never minded simply skimming over unrecognizable words whereas now I am eager to learn their meaning which I write down in my school/work notebook. In order to help me better remember these new words, I have tried to slip them into both conversation and most recently, my writing. The above posts contains 10 or so of these 'new words/phrases' borrowed from authors Tom Robbins, Paul Theroux, Kevin Gotham, Jon Krakauer and David Grazian. I don't doubt that the majority of these are used incorrectly as I am hardly familiar with the terms. Even so, I find it's worth the practice and I'll eagerly accept any critique that you might be willing to offer! Can you find all 10!?)
Sunday, June 14, 2009
SSFL Spring Season Closer
Today wrapped up the last week of match play in the SSFL Spring Season. While I at first questioned whether or not I would be able to make it due to a work retreat this weekend, it wasn't hard for me to make a case for having to return to Seoul early. I have been a member of the Spitfires now for almost as long as I have been at DYB. In fact, the differential is only one week as it was my second week here that I went out for my first game.
I'm glad that I did make it back in time as team manager Sun Uk bestowed a rather humbling honor to me today asking if I would allow the referee to take my picture to be used as a nomination for the defensive player of the season! I of course agreed and thanked him profusely for such recognition when all I try and do each week is show up and play!
A Spitfire Veteran!
Anyways, facing the yet undefeated Jokers we didn't go into the game with any intention other than having fun. And that we did!
To everyone's surprise, The Spitfires took the early lead and managed to hold on for quite some time. Even so, the Joker's possessed a team skill that we simply could not match and they eventually pulled even. A bit later, a fluke popup and an unlucky handball in the box gave the Joker's two more, seemingly putting the game out of reach.
With a crack from 20 yards out, Russian exchange student Ivan managed to whip a ball past a diving goalie to keep us in the game. Unfortunately, we weren't able to produce anything else beyond that and had to settle for a game well played. As a defeat was rather eminent from the onset, it was enjoyable simply going out and playing our hardest for the season's last game. To be honest, this had to have been one of our best played matches of the season as we gave this undefeated team a true run for their money. Playing against anyone else in the league we would have had a sound victory! Even so, it wasn't a total personal defeat as somehow I managed to secure the 'Man of the Match' honors for my improvised role at sweeper, a relatively new position for me!
Afterward, Sun treated the team to chicken and beer using the remainder of our 'team fees.' Not entirely sure how we have any left over but he insisted that it was not him paying but rather our collective funds. Either way, it was a great way to end the season!
Though I'm looking forward to the number of friendly matches Sun has promised to organize this summer, I'm saddened that today was likely my last day of league play with the Spitfires. As my contract coincided with the first week of fall play, I will likely have left, or at least be leaving Korea by the time the next season picks up again.
As I mentioned before, of all the things that make up my Korean experience, this team has been at the top of the list. Having something to do that simply does not involve work, teaching, DYB or even Nowon in anyway has been life saving for me. From the time I get on the bus Sunday afternoon to the time I get back off the subway I feel a freedom that I long for all week. To be able to run, play, compete and simply have fun without a care in the world is, well, all I really ask for. On Sunday afternoons at least!
While everyone that I have met through our team has been amazing, here are just a few of those who have helped to make my experience just a little bit more, well, enjoyable! Thanks guys. . .
Our knowledgeable and generous team manager, Sun Uk, who, at the age of 50 still holds his own on the field against a group of rowdy post-adolescent expats.
Hwi Soo, a young soldier who I learned, only the day before he left, not only worked on the US base but in turn spoke almost perfect English.
Tom Anderson, the diplomat and family man. As American as corn on the cob and oversized chili dogs.
Canadian Craig who, after almost a half a dozen years in Korea shows no sign of leaving anytime soon. His recent engagement to a young Korean woman probably sealed the deal but it's great for me as I know where to go to with 'life in Seoul' questions.
Ammar, perhaps our team's biggest asset who we unfortunately lost early on this season due to a serious leg injury. Playing stopper I have nothing more comforting than knowing that he is there to take out anyone who might get by me or to give the ball a good ole' toe kick sending it down to the opposing team's goal line. As an Iraqi immigrant who has been waiting for years now to move to the USA with his American wife, he was recently blessed with both confirmation on his long awaited visa and the arrival of his first child, a beautiful daughter.
Joseph who is, well, a teenager at heart. He loves girls, cars, soccer, and did I say girls? A great 'kid' who is always eager to make plans though we've yet to ever follow through on any.
My fellow American and closest teammate with regards to not only age, education and position but geographical origin as well is David Hartley who hails from Grand Rapids, Michigan. Returning 'home' in the fall to begin law school, David has been a great role model if you will for me, assuring me that there are others who come here for a year and do in fact plan on returning Stateside, unscathed. (On a side note, I found it ironic that recent import Steve is now Dave's coworker. Small world, smaller Seoul.)
I can't not mention our goalie Han Dong Shin whose name is aptly abbreviated on his jersey as HanDS! He's there to cover my numerous faults and is always friendly on and off the field, despite the touch situations we love to put him in.
Though it is evident that he is often frustrated with our team's management or lack of, relative newbie Jake always shows a load of patience that easily escapes our other teammates.
Twins Jun Ho and Jun Suk who are of Korean decent but hail from Germany are simply a riot! They'll scream to each other in German, switch to Korean without hesitation and then break out a grammatically perfect but otherwise hilarious English that has a tinge of both Korean and German in it! Oh yeah, and did I mention they are killer scorers?!
James, or, as Nate refers to him, Banana Boy, has saved a number of lives on the pitch due to the fact that, well, he'll sometimes show up to games armed with giant bunch of bananas. These little yellow packages do wonders for extra energy and to flush out the rest of an all nighter in the 'Twon. A great guy and a solid player he's even invited us all over for a BBQ next Sunday. . .while the girlfriend is out of town!
Hailing form Japan, Nikki, though often absent due to work, is also a pleasure to play with and know. His flawless English is the product of many years in the States and elsewhere as he travels the world for, well, no one really knows why!
There are plenty of others who come and go as our team must be one of the most dynamic in the league. While often billed as a foreigner's league, I've never seen anything to indicate that this is the case and I'm certainly glad it's not. I am lucky to have played (be playing) on a team that is so diverse in age, language, and nationality. According to the league's website, we Spitfires hail from nine unique countries, all of which have produced some mighty fine amateur footballers if I do say so myself! I've heard other teams pride themselves on being homogeneous which, to me, simply seems like a waste of an experience.
To be honest, I wouldn't trade my Sunday afternoons for anything!
I'm glad that I did make it back in time as team manager Sun Uk bestowed a rather humbling honor to me today asking if I would allow the referee to take my picture to be used as a nomination for the defensive player of the season! I of course agreed and thanked him profusely for such recognition when all I try and do each week is show up and play!
A Spitfire Veteran!Anyways, facing the yet undefeated Jokers we didn't go into the game with any intention other than having fun. And that we did!
To everyone's surprise, The Spitfires took the early lead and managed to hold on for quite some time. Even so, the Joker's possessed a team skill that we simply could not match and they eventually pulled even. A bit later, a fluke popup and an unlucky handball in the box gave the Joker's two more, seemingly putting the game out of reach.
With a crack from 20 yards out, Russian exchange student Ivan managed to whip a ball past a diving goalie to keep us in the game. Unfortunately, we weren't able to produce anything else beyond that and had to settle for a game well played. As a defeat was rather eminent from the onset, it was enjoyable simply going out and playing our hardest for the season's last game. To be honest, this had to have been one of our best played matches of the season as we gave this undefeated team a true run for their money. Playing against anyone else in the league we would have had a sound victory! Even so, it wasn't a total personal defeat as somehow I managed to secure the 'Man of the Match' honors for my improvised role at sweeper, a relatively new position for me!
Afterward, Sun treated the team to chicken and beer using the remainder of our 'team fees.' Not entirely sure how we have any left over but he insisted that it was not him paying but rather our collective funds. Either way, it was a great way to end the season!
Though I'm looking forward to the number of friendly matches Sun has promised to organize this summer, I'm saddened that today was likely my last day of league play with the Spitfires. As my contract coincided with the first week of fall play, I will likely have left, or at least be leaving Korea by the time the next season picks up again.
As I mentioned before, of all the things that make up my Korean experience, this team has been at the top of the list. Having something to do that simply does not involve work, teaching, DYB or even Nowon in anyway has been life saving for me. From the time I get on the bus Sunday afternoon to the time I get back off the subway I feel a freedom that I long for all week. To be able to run, play, compete and simply have fun without a care in the world is, well, all I really ask for. On Sunday afternoons at least!
While everyone that I have met through our team has been amazing, here are just a few of those who have helped to make my experience just a little bit more, well, enjoyable! Thanks guys. . .
Our knowledgeable and generous team manager, Sun Uk, who, at the age of 50 still holds his own on the field against a group of rowdy post-adolescent expats.
Hwi Soo, a young soldier who I learned, only the day before he left, not only worked on the US base but in turn spoke almost perfect English.
Tom Anderson, the diplomat and family man. As American as corn on the cob and oversized chili dogs.
Canadian Craig who, after almost a half a dozen years in Korea shows no sign of leaving anytime soon. His recent engagement to a young Korean woman probably sealed the deal but it's great for me as I know where to go to with 'life in Seoul' questions.
Ammar, perhaps our team's biggest asset who we unfortunately lost early on this season due to a serious leg injury. Playing stopper I have nothing more comforting than knowing that he is there to take out anyone who might get by me or to give the ball a good ole' toe kick sending it down to the opposing team's goal line. As an Iraqi immigrant who has been waiting for years now to move to the USA with his American wife, he was recently blessed with both confirmation on his long awaited visa and the arrival of his first child, a beautiful daughter.
Joseph who is, well, a teenager at heart. He loves girls, cars, soccer, and did I say girls? A great 'kid' who is always eager to make plans though we've yet to ever follow through on any.
My fellow American and closest teammate with regards to not only age, education and position but geographical origin as well is David Hartley who hails from Grand Rapids, Michigan. Returning 'home' in the fall to begin law school, David has been a great role model if you will for me, assuring me that there are others who come here for a year and do in fact plan on returning Stateside, unscathed. (On a side note, I found it ironic that recent import Steve is now Dave's coworker. Small world, smaller Seoul.)
I can't not mention our goalie Han Dong Shin whose name is aptly abbreviated on his jersey as HanDS! He's there to cover my numerous faults and is always friendly on and off the field, despite the touch situations we love to put him in.
Though it is evident that he is often frustrated with our team's management or lack of, relative newbie Jake always shows a load of patience that easily escapes our other teammates.
Twins Jun Ho and Jun Suk who are of Korean decent but hail from Germany are simply a riot! They'll scream to each other in German, switch to Korean without hesitation and then break out a grammatically perfect but otherwise hilarious English that has a tinge of both Korean and German in it! Oh yeah, and did I mention they are killer scorers?!
James, or, as Nate refers to him, Banana Boy, has saved a number of lives on the pitch due to the fact that, well, he'll sometimes show up to games armed with giant bunch of bananas. These little yellow packages do wonders for extra energy and to flush out the rest of an all nighter in the 'Twon. A great guy and a solid player he's even invited us all over for a BBQ next Sunday. . .while the girlfriend is out of town!
Hailing form Japan, Nikki, though often absent due to work, is also a pleasure to play with and know. His flawless English is the product of many years in the States and elsewhere as he travels the world for, well, no one really knows why!
There are plenty of others who come and go as our team must be one of the most dynamic in the league. While often billed as a foreigner's league, I've never seen anything to indicate that this is the case and I'm certainly glad it's not. I am lucky to have played (be playing) on a team that is so diverse in age, language, and nationality. According to the league's website, we Spitfires hail from nine unique countries, all of which have produced some mighty fine amateur footballers if I do say so myself! I've heard other teams pride themselves on being homogeneous which, to me, simply seems like a waste of an experience.
To be honest, I wouldn't trade my Sunday afternoons for anything!
Monday, June 8, 2009
And Then There Were Three. . .
So begins the Korean adventures of neighborhood friend and longtime classmate Steve Greene!
Wednesday morning I uncomfortably was awoken by an early morning phone call from an unrecognizable number. Hitting silent and rolling back over I realized that I had just hung up on a 517 my area code at home. This seemed all too strange as normally when people call from the States, or Skype, it comes up as 'Hidden.' I tried to call the number back but was told that it didn't exist. Only then did I remember Steve telling me that he had purchased a 517 number from Skype so that he can receive incoming 'local' calls.
While the last time I checked in with Steve he still hadn't heard anything about his flight out to Korea, I didn't second guess the possibility that he had been booked and shipped out with 24 of us speaking, certainly not leaving time to contact anyone with the news. This call had to be from him.
Unwillingly, I rose from my couch and stumbled to the computer where I, sure enough, found Steve in the world wide Skype-o-sphere. He informed me that he had arrived a few hours before at Incheon and since been wandering around his new digs in Cheonho, just south of the great Han River.
I suggested we meet up for breakfast and said that I'd try and rouse Nate whom I'm sure was soundly sleeping. This was after all at 9:00am and it's not like we have real jobs to get to or anything! (On that note, a girl I met the other night noted that her current situation was akin to a 'waiter's life,' I completely understand, and agree.)
A few hours later Nate and I popped out of Samgakji Station, certain that it would take a miracle for Steve to do the same. Alas, after only 15 minutes or so a bewildered Greene rose from the depths of Samgakji Station, Exit 10. From there it was only a quick walk north towards the USO Canteen and a real American breakfast! Or so I thought. . .
Alas, we showed up just a few minutes to late for the grand-slam-breakfast that I was eagerly looking forward to. Even so, I settled for a home cooked chili 'n cheese burger with a side of black coffe, and a mango Snapple to boot. This exhausted the last of my USD that I had collected in change from my backpack upon arriving, and returning from the Gras.
After 'breakfast' we took Steve up and out to lunch in Junggye, to show him 'life as we know it.' Munching gimbap on the corner of Eunhang Sa-geori is about as exciting as it gets here in northern Nowon, but hey, that's life. After showing him around Dootavil we sent him back reeling towards his new home as Nate and I took off for another exciting day at DYB.
That wouldn't be the last of Steve that we saw on Wednesday however as he came back to find us at the end of work. Wanting to introduce him proudly to a number of Korean traditions, we headed straight out for the nearest chicken hof were Steve got more than his fill of yangyam chicken, soju, and The Sound of Vitality. Not wanting to send him back in a cab alone, Steve sent up camp at my place for the evening and got his first taste of loft life.
I didn't see Steve again until Saturday morning when we had agreed to meet up and check out his neck of the woods. Unfortunately, Nate wasn't able to come as he took off this weekend for Tokyo and won't be returning until Wednesday morning. Shhhh, don't tell his students though as Anna told me today that he can't tell anyone or else parents will take their kids out of DYB. Why, you might ask. Well because of swine flu of course! Not to over generalize but, I have never encountered a more ridiculously paranoid culture.
Anyways. . .green Line 7 down to Gunja, hope on purple Line 5 and get off at Cheonho, where one can transfer to the pink Line 8, if need be. Out exist three and 300 meteres down on your left you'll find a large brown apartment building. Go to room 1406, on the top floor, and you'll find, well Steve.
The Kid's New Digs
Peace Gate at Olympic Park
National Anthem-ing
Thunder Sticks!
Nightime at Jamsil Stadium!
And she looked just like Kita, for those of you who know!
Wednesday morning I uncomfortably was awoken by an early morning phone call from an unrecognizable number. Hitting silent and rolling back over I realized that I had just hung up on a 517 my area code at home. This seemed all too strange as normally when people call from the States, or Skype, it comes up as 'Hidden.' I tried to call the number back but was told that it didn't exist. Only then did I remember Steve telling me that he had purchased a 517 number from Skype so that he can receive incoming 'local' calls.
While the last time I checked in with Steve he still hadn't heard anything about his flight out to Korea, I didn't second guess the possibility that he had been booked and shipped out with 24 of us speaking, certainly not leaving time to contact anyone with the news. This call had to be from him.
Unwillingly, I rose from my couch and stumbled to the computer where I, sure enough, found Steve in the world wide Skype-o-sphere. He informed me that he had arrived a few hours before at Incheon and since been wandering around his new digs in Cheonho, just south of the great Han River.
I suggested we meet up for breakfast and said that I'd try and rouse Nate whom I'm sure was soundly sleeping. This was after all at 9:00am and it's not like we have real jobs to get to or anything! (On that note, a girl I met the other night noted that her current situation was akin to a 'waiter's life,' I completely understand, and agree.)
A few hours later Nate and I popped out of Samgakji Station, certain that it would take a miracle for Steve to do the same. Alas, after only 15 minutes or so a bewildered Greene rose from the depths of Samgakji Station, Exit 10. From there it was only a quick walk north towards the USO Canteen and a real American breakfast! Or so I thought. . .
Alas, we showed up just a few minutes to late for the grand-slam-breakfast that I was eagerly looking forward to. Even so, I settled for a home cooked chili 'n cheese burger with a side of black coffe, and a mango Snapple to boot. This exhausted the last of my USD that I had collected in change from my backpack upon arriving, and returning from the Gras.
After 'breakfast' we took Steve up and out to lunch in Junggye, to show him 'life as we know it.' Munching gimbap on the corner of Eunhang Sa-geori is about as exciting as it gets here in northern Nowon, but hey, that's life. After showing him around Dootavil we sent him back reeling towards his new home as Nate and I took off for another exciting day at DYB.
That wouldn't be the last of Steve that we saw on Wednesday however as he came back to find us at the end of work. Wanting to introduce him proudly to a number of Korean traditions, we headed straight out for the nearest chicken hof were Steve got more than his fill of yangyam chicken, soju, and The Sound of Vitality. Not wanting to send him back in a cab alone, Steve sent up camp at my place for the evening and got his first taste of loft life.
I didn't see Steve again until Saturday morning when we had agreed to meet up and check out his neck of the woods. Unfortunately, Nate wasn't able to come as he took off this weekend for Tokyo and won't be returning until Wednesday morning. Shhhh, don't tell his students though as Anna told me today that he can't tell anyone or else parents will take their kids out of DYB. Why, you might ask. Well because of swine flu of course! Not to over generalize but, I have never encountered a more ridiculously paranoid culture.
Anyways. . .green Line 7 down to Gunja, hope on purple Line 5 and get off at Cheonho, where one can transfer to the pink Line 8, if need be. Out exist three and 300 meteres down on your left you'll find a large brown apartment building. Go to room 1406, on the top floor, and you'll find, well Steve.
The Kid's New DigsAll I can say about his place is, well, I would love to have a real shower, counter space and sure wish someone had left me a bunch of leather couches! Other than that, it's very Korean. Small, efficient, and surrounded by other apartments. Though I do admit that the view from the 14th floor is somewhat more spectacular than from the fourth!
After breaking in the already broken in couches, we headed out on the town to wander around his new neighborhood. We soon decided to head towards Olympic Park where neither Nate nor I have yet to visit in Seoul. . .oops!
On our way, we got a call from Steve's new coworker, and my Spitfire teammate, David, letting us know about a baseball game later that day. David also offered to take me to a store where he had saw Sanuks on sale only a few days ago. Knowing that I was in the market for a new pair this was an extremely kind gesture that I readily accepted.
So, in order to make the game in time, Steve and I hauled through Olympic Park only stopping for a handful of pictures and a melon popsicle, a hot day mainstay!
One of the 200+ art installations in Olympic Park with the swimming complex in the background.
On the other side we met David at Mongchongtoseong Station, just beneath his Parkview pad. We headed towards Jamsil station where we descended into a sprawling underground arcade that doubles as the entrance to Lotte World. Down a long hallway we entered a shoe store, Athletes Foot where I was shocked to find a small display of Sanuk sidewalk surfers. By this point in my journey I've already contact Sanuk and asked them to direct me to a dealer in Seoul yet they have been unable to do so. Thus, this was a welcome surprise.
Unfortunately, the shoes they had on display are essentially the exact same ones I currently own and what I'm looking for is a new pair in one of their more rugged styles to hopefully guide me on my way throughout SE Asia. I didn't pick up a pair just then but it's good to know where to find 'em if i can't build up the gall to order yet another pair of shoes online (as neither of the last two have fit).
After breaking in the already broken in couches, we headed out on the town to wander around his new neighborhood. We soon decided to head towards Olympic Park where neither Nate nor I have yet to visit in Seoul. . .oops!
On our way, we got a call from Steve's new coworker, and my Spitfire teammate, David, letting us know about a baseball game later that day. David also offered to take me to a store where he had saw Sanuks on sale only a few days ago. Knowing that I was in the market for a new pair this was an extremely kind gesture that I readily accepted.
So, in order to make the game in time, Steve and I hauled through Olympic Park only stopping for a handful of pictures and a melon popsicle, a hot day mainstay!
One of the 200+ art installations in Olympic Park with the swimming complex in the background.On the other side we met David at Mongchongtoseong Station, just beneath his Parkview pad. We headed towards Jamsil station where we descended into a sprawling underground arcade that doubles as the entrance to Lotte World. Down a long hallway we entered a shoe store, Athletes Foot where I was shocked to find a small display of Sanuk sidewalk surfers. By this point in my journey I've already contact Sanuk and asked them to direct me to a dealer in Seoul yet they have been unable to do so. Thus, this was a welcome surprise.
Unfortunately, the shoes they had on display are essentially the exact same ones I currently own and what I'm looking for is a new pair in one of their more rugged styles to hopefully guide me on my way throughout SE Asia. I didn't pick up a pair just then but it's good to know where to find 'em if i can't build up the gall to order yet another pair of shoes online (as neither of the last two have fit).
Peace Gate at Olympic ParkOkay, okay, back to the point. From Jamsil we hopped on the subway two stops over to the Sports Complex where, for 8,000 won, we were able to pick up seats in the Yellow Section for a game between the LG Twins and the Doosan Bears. As Joseph has made it known on more than one occasion that he is a huge fan of Doosan, I could only cheer for the later team. Good thing too as we ended up sitting in the Doosan section!
National Anthem-ingMatter of fact, we didn't actually really sit in any section as we rather were forced to plop down in the aisle on concrete stairs. Apparently, we had arrived much to late to get a chunk of 7 seats together as many of the die hard fans, a breed of which everyone at the game is obviously of, arrive unreasonably early to scout out spots. Good thing we paid for the cheap seats cause, well, that's what we ended up getting!
Thunder Sticks!The game was an absolute blast and even though Doosan lost, everyone had a fantastic time. The energy in the stadium was simply unreal and I'm sure not matched in the States except for the biggest of events. Keep in mind too that this was a top ranked team playing a last ranked team and not once did the stadium grow quiet. The only thing I can think of to compare the energy to is that of a European soccer match, though I've never actually been to one!
As the sun fell and so did the Bears, we decided to get out before everyone else made the same move. At the top of the 9th we seemed to be some of the only people making our way towards the gates despite the game being over long, long ago!
Both sides are constantly engaged in back and forth cheering, seemingly without any jeering. Everything is always positive and even the worst batter on the team gets his name chanted when up to bat, no matter how many times he strikes out!
As the sun fell and so did the Bears, we decided to get out before everyone else made the same move. At the top of the 9th we seemed to be some of the only people making our way towards the gates despite the game being over long, long ago!
Nightime at Jamsil Stadium!With a handful of Steve's coworkers, two of whom I play soccer with (or, one with and one against) we made it to a highly acclaimed Shabu Shabu restaurant that I've heard about for months. While it was certainly delicious, I'm not by any means going to recommend it over our local spot. Sure, the broth was thick and spicy while ours is a bit watery, but we get a much better selection of vegetables and no one, I mean no one can argue with the cup of icy plum tea that finishes the meal!
From Shabu Shabu it was off to Gold Bar where we spent the rest of the night playing terrible pool, playing with a husky, sipping on delicious cocktails and discussing the following day's Han River derby between the two teams in our club, Spitfires and Harriers. On that note, all that needs to be said is that the Harriers got their plate cleaned as we Spitfires tore through their lines with remarkable precision executed beautiful by our newest Korean recruits, aptly named Dragon and Star!
While I've got less than 80 days to go here in Seoul, Steve is just getting started so don't forget to visit him every so often and listen in on a fresh perspective of life on the Han.
From Shabu Shabu it was off to Gold Bar where we spent the rest of the night playing terrible pool, playing with a husky, sipping on delicious cocktails and discussing the following day's Han River derby between the two teams in our club, Spitfires and Harriers. On that note, all that needs to be said is that the Harriers got their plate cleaned as we Spitfires tore through their lines with remarkable precision executed beautiful by our newest Korean recruits, aptly named Dragon and Star!
While I've got less than 80 days to go here in Seoul, Steve is just getting started so don't forget to visit him every so often and listen in on a fresh perspective of life on the Han.
And she looked just like Kita, for those of you who know!Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Jeju (Pt. 4): Yongmeori Coast, Western Jeju and Jeju-si
With the 'biggies' out of the way already we finally let our guard down and got a bit of extra sleep Thursday morning. Even so, once awake I quickly hustled Laura out the door and into the steaming hot Avante. A note here on check out procedures. At each of our hotels (motels and minbaks included), check out consisted of no more than either leaving a key in the open door or tossing it on an unattended front desk, that is, if there was one.
Day 4's goal was simple and that was to make our way to Jeju-si by way of the western coast. Our only planned stop for the day were the surreal landscapes of the Yongmeori Coast, other than it, it was smooth sailing. . .or so we thought. For some reason, likely because I was trying to do so while driving, I was unable to correctly convey to Navi that we'd please like directions to Yongmeori. Thus, we decided to simply hug the small coastal roads that shot off highway 1132 and look for, well, a 'promenade of soaring cliffs,' as they're described by LP.
The Cliffs of Insanity!
Shortly after pulling out of Jungmun we found ourselves in a harbor surrounded by cliffs. A number other parked cars in the area indicated that there must be other tourists near by. Upon parking our vehicle, we soon learned that we were not at all alone as a huge gang of middle schoolers had taken over the area on a school trip. By the way, almost all Korean students (or at least all of mine) get to go to Jeju at some point on a school trip. How awesome is that!? Work like a slave for 240 days a year and maybe once you'll be lucky enough to take a 2 day vacay! Sounds like a deal to me.
Assuming, but wholly uncertain, that the cliffs ahead were in fact Yongmeori, we decided to follow the throng of students as they made their way up a trail. While the grade was much more manageable then our previous day's climb up Hallasan, the terrain was much more rugged and overgrown. I at first questioned whether we were in fact where we wanted to be but soon put aside any reservations I had figuring that if a troupe of kids on an educational trip were making the hike then certainly there was something worth seeing. Boy was I wrong. . .
After an hour or so of climbing the path eventually leveled out but, to my dismay, we were no where near the cliff edge where I had hoped we would end up. Rather, we found ourselves in a sprawling field that seemed to be sectioned off for cultivation. While some of the areas obviously had crops growing, others were left to be taken over by weeds. None of the vegetation was easily recognizable though some of it greatly resembled wheat. . .or at least, what I think wheat might look like.
Fields of Joy
Although there seemed to be no obvious trail, we continued to follow the little ones as they, only partially aware of the growth underfoot, marched across the fields. Eventually we found ourselves pack on a wooded path where blue ribbons seemed to steer up towards our eventually destination. This small recognition of a known path again got my hopes up for something grand at the end of this journey. Again, I was wrong.
My alarm went off immediately as we turned a corner and began the descent down a dirt path on the opposite side of the cliffs from which we began our journey. I'm no professional hiker but I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say that it's never a great idea to go down the opposite way you came up. Especially when you have no clue where you are.
Even so, we pushed on, praying that these little brats, guided by their teachers, had some sort of interesting destination in mind. When we finally broke through from the trees and the ground again evened out, we were treated to a beautiful view of a rocky beach, and, a water treatment plant right in front of it. Stepping out on to the rocks we were able to look back at the cliff and see where we had just managed to walk up, over and back down again on the wrong side.
King of the Mountain!
Say, "I'm Gonna Kill You Adam"
Victory!
(For the sake of the story this picture is placed here, though an intelligent reader should easily surmise from our general expressions that this is not in fact a victory shot from our failed attempt at rounding 'The Point.')
Still not wanting to take the stupid hike back up and over we tried to walk along a small access road running parallel to the big plant. It didn't take us long to run into a swarm of angry flying insects which sent us back the way we came. At this point it became obvious that someone was sending us a message to just do the stupid hike already and get it over with. We had run out of lifelines.
hour 'n a half or so later we made it back to the car and immediately took off, wanting to leave all memories of the morning's climb behind. Neither one of us were happy but hey, at least we're a bit more experienced now when it comes to rock climbing! I think author Laurence Gonzales would agree with me here as he once wrote that 'the word 'experienced' often refers to someone who's gotten away with doing the wrong thing more frequently than you have.' I'm just glad we got away with it!
Still not entirely sure what we had just climbed or why, we continued to drive aimlessly heading west along Jeju's southern coast. It wasn't long until we came across a sign pointing us to the Yongmeori Coast we had initially set out to find. . .great, if only we had driven on another 5 km instead of getting out to oogle at the first cliff!
At the next big turn off we followed a number of cars in to a parking lot surrounded with bustling vendors and activities. Walking down a long flight of stairs we came out long a quaint promenade of stores and, um, a horse 'track', and um, carnival rides, and um, a giant sailing vessel? Apparently, Yongmeori is not only celebrated for it's beautiful natural landscape but also for its ability to sell the story of a Dutchman, Hendrick Hamel, who was the first westerner to 'discover' and subsequently write about Korea.
I was immediately intrigued by the small horses, referring to them, apparently incorrectly so, as ponies. By this point Laura and I had already discussed her reservations about riding horses as one didn't take kindly to her in her youth and decided that it preferred Laura on the ground, rather than on its back. I however don't recall ever having ridden a horse and couldn't think of any better time then the present. So, I forked over 5,000 won to a dusty ole' cowboy and he helped me up on the back of one of his finest ladies.
A good kick in her side and off I went around a big dirt track. Here are my observations from my brief ride. Horses are really strong. Riding on one immediately makes you feel like a cowboy. Cowboys must have had terribly calloused backsides. It is obvious why jeans, tight in the crotch, were, are, and always will be preferred by horse riders. Anyways, my short ride was actually great fun though I was certainly glad when she finally came to a halt! Not sure if I ever need to do it again but if I do, I won't be wearing shorts with boxers, that's for sure.
Giddyap Cowboy!
The most beautiful ladies on Jeju!
Dismounting and making sure that everything was still in one piece, we headed out towards the elusive Yongmeori coast. While we debated paying 2,500 won to walk amongst a bunch of rocks, as we had done so earlier in the day for free, we eventually caved in and coughed up the entrance fee based on the presumption that we wouldn't likely ever visit it again.
Hanyeo displaying the day's catch
Where in the World is Lars!?
Sanbangsan from the Yongmeori Coast
Laura and the Giant Burger from Red Pond Herb Farm
Flora at Yongmeori
Ochingo and Jeju Orange Wine
Out to dry
Working our way along the coastal roads we turned the three corner on Jeju and began working our way north along the western edge. We pulled off the road at random intervals to check out the sea below but didn't find anything to terribly exciting. A bit of cliffs here and some rocks there. This clearly isn't the exciting side of the island but if you're looking for peace and solitude, look no further!
Cliff Hanging
(Thank you to Laura who held on to me as I precariously dangled myself over this drop off!)
I did stop once to try and grab some sunset pictures before turning east towards Jeju-si but unfortunately the sun wasn't quite ready to set and I wasn't about to wait any longer for it! So you take what you can get I guess. . .
Pre-Sunset from Northern Jeju
Hello There!
Bobos proved to be every bit the Love Motel that LP said it was. Heck, we were even credited 5,000 won off the room price because I had a 'beautiful smile.' While it seemed that the ajumma was telling me this was the reason, I'm still certain she was talking about Laura but simply looking at me. I am after all not the beauty in this operation!
As for Lonely Planet, well, they've been pretty hit and miss with Korea but surprisingly spot on with Jeju. My only complaint was that the recommended 'Mexican' restaurant, El Paso, should be avoided at all costs. I've had my fair share of Mexican-style food here in Korea but this place didn't even come close. The only decent part of the meal was the taco salad and that's because it was mostly lettuce, there was nothing for the chef, who studied (but it doesn't say what) in Mexico City, to ruin!
Highly disappointed but too exhausted to care we crawled back to Bobos threw on a movie and I can't say that I even remember watching the opening credits. This was an exhausting, exhausting day. Back to Seoul tomorrow but not after first checking out the Mysterious Road (where an idling car rolls uphill) and of course, the much anticipated Jeju Love Land! Don't miss either, but they're going to be for you to find out about on your own.
Thanks for traveling with us!
'Cool, Welcome to Jeju.'
Day 4's goal was simple and that was to make our way to Jeju-si by way of the western coast. Our only planned stop for the day were the surreal landscapes of the Yongmeori Coast, other than it, it was smooth sailing. . .or so we thought. For some reason, likely because I was trying to do so while driving, I was unable to correctly convey to Navi that we'd please like directions to Yongmeori. Thus, we decided to simply hug the small coastal roads that shot off highway 1132 and look for, well, a 'promenade of soaring cliffs,' as they're described by LP.
The Cliffs of Insanity!Assuming, but wholly uncertain, that the cliffs ahead were in fact Yongmeori, we decided to follow the throng of students as they made their way up a trail. While the grade was much more manageable then our previous day's climb up Hallasan, the terrain was much more rugged and overgrown. I at first questioned whether we were in fact where we wanted to be but soon put aside any reservations I had figuring that if a troupe of kids on an educational trip were making the hike then certainly there was something worth seeing. Boy was I wrong. . .
After an hour or so of climbing the path eventually leveled out but, to my dismay, we were no where near the cliff edge where I had hoped we would end up. Rather, we found ourselves in a sprawling field that seemed to be sectioned off for cultivation. While some of the areas obviously had crops growing, others were left to be taken over by weeds. None of the vegetation was easily recognizable though some of it greatly resembled wheat. . .or at least, what I think wheat might look like.
Fields of JoyMy alarm went off immediately as we turned a corner and began the descent down a dirt path on the opposite side of the cliffs from which we began our journey. I'm no professional hiker but I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say that it's never a great idea to go down the opposite way you came up. Especially when you have no clue where you are.
Even so, we pushed on, praying that these little brats, guided by their teachers, had some sort of interesting destination in mind. When we finally broke through from the trees and the ground again evened out, we were treated to a beautiful view of a rocky beach, and, a water treatment plant right in front of it. Stepping out on to the rocks we were able to look back at the cliff and see where we had just managed to walk up, over and back down again on the wrong side.
King of the Mountain!This is where we were forced to make a choice. Having hiked for almost two hours in order to see the same view that we had from the place where we parked the car, our first inclination was to simply leave as quickly as possible. The issue with this is that doing so would, at first glance, require us to go back over the way we came. Another two hours of all-ready-been-there-done-that-bought-the-t-shirt scenery. So, we started to brainstorm.
Looking out at the point which separated us from our vehicle (go back to the top and check out the picture), I remembered seeing people fishing out on the rocks on the 'car-side' of the cliffs. I then posited that perhaps we could simply walk along the beach towards the point where we would miraculously turn the corner and BAM, be right back at our car!
These seemed to the both of us a much more reasonable idea then simply backtracking the terribly boring route we had just come, so, off we went. Perhaps our decision was misguided by the wavering light on the horizon, or maybe it was due to the intense heat and our lack of water, but, either way, in retrospect, these are the types of decisions that get young travelers maimed and killed in the far corners of the world. . .
As we moved along the beach, the small rocks under foot quickly grew into massive volcanic (?) formations with razor sharp edges but, on the plus side, really good footholds. I ambled on a head of Laura with the help of my trusty hiking stick, a bamboo pole I picked up along the way. A few steps ahead I was able to help try and guide her along the 'safest' path as she had to be extra cautious of her footing as her feet were protected only by a pair of sandals. . .obviously we did not plan on hiking when we stepped out of the car oh so long ago!
Pushing on the rocks only grew larger, and larger. While they were mostly stable and seemed to be extremely solid, one slip would easily have sent either one of us down into a tight crevice where the waves pounded below. This is about the part where I'm terrified and envisioning myself being stuck, slammed against a rock as sharks nibble on my toes and Laura clamors for help, loosing her sandals and shredding the bottom of her feet like parmesan cheese. Luckily, this isn't how it turned out. But I wouldn't have been surprised if it did!
We made it to just about the tip of the point you can see in the first picture were a man stood atop a giant boulder, calmly fishing by himself. By this point we were moving probably about 20ft a minute, this was, well, not easy. When we eventually got near enough, I asked him if we would be able to make it around the point and towards land. Who knows if he understood me but the motions he made with his hands made it pretty clear that whatever we were up against wasn't going to be pretty. So, what did we do? Well, the only thing we could. Jump in to the water, swim out to see and around into the harbor. . .no, just kidding, but I thought about it! Too bad I brought the camera out with me or I might have!
We turned around. . .to backtrack, along the treacherous rocks, when all we were trying to do was avoid having to backtrack in the first place. I found this slightly amusing. Laura didn't. See below for clarification.
Looking out at the point which separated us from our vehicle (go back to the top and check out the picture), I remembered seeing people fishing out on the rocks on the 'car-side' of the cliffs. I then posited that perhaps we could simply walk along the beach towards the point where we would miraculously turn the corner and BAM, be right back at our car!
These seemed to the both of us a much more reasonable idea then simply backtracking the terribly boring route we had just come, so, off we went. Perhaps our decision was misguided by the wavering light on the horizon, or maybe it was due to the intense heat and our lack of water, but, either way, in retrospect, these are the types of decisions that get young travelers maimed and killed in the far corners of the world. . .
As we moved along the beach, the small rocks under foot quickly grew into massive volcanic (?) formations with razor sharp edges but, on the plus side, really good footholds. I ambled on a head of Laura with the help of my trusty hiking stick, a bamboo pole I picked up along the way. A few steps ahead I was able to help try and guide her along the 'safest' path as she had to be extra cautious of her footing as her feet were protected only by a pair of sandals. . .obviously we did not plan on hiking when we stepped out of the car oh so long ago!
Pushing on the rocks only grew larger, and larger. While they were mostly stable and seemed to be extremely solid, one slip would easily have sent either one of us down into a tight crevice where the waves pounded below. This is about the part where I'm terrified and envisioning myself being stuck, slammed against a rock as sharks nibble on my toes and Laura clamors for help, loosing her sandals and shredding the bottom of her feet like parmesan cheese. Luckily, this isn't how it turned out. But I wouldn't have been surprised if it did!
We made it to just about the tip of the point you can see in the first picture were a man stood atop a giant boulder, calmly fishing by himself. By this point we were moving probably about 20ft a minute, this was, well, not easy. When we eventually got near enough, I asked him if we would be able to make it around the point and towards land. Who knows if he understood me but the motions he made with his hands made it pretty clear that whatever we were up against wasn't going to be pretty. So, what did we do? Well, the only thing we could. Jump in to the water, swim out to see and around into the harbor. . .no, just kidding, but I thought about it! Too bad I brought the camera out with me or I might have!
We turned around. . .to backtrack, along the treacherous rocks, when all we were trying to do was avoid having to backtrack in the first place. I found this slightly amusing. Laura didn't. See below for clarification.
Say, "I'm Gonna Kill You Adam"Another 45 minutes later we made it back to the safety of the water treatment plant beach. Our students had apparently vanished in to thin air and in their place, a group of elderly climber glad in fluorescent clothing had appeared. They gaily gulped down water and ramyeon while we still hadn't had a drink since leaving the car. Oops. Can you say, prepared?! Hey, at least we made it off the rocks!
Victory!(For the sake of the story this picture is placed here, though an intelligent reader should easily surmise from our general expressions that this is not in fact a victory shot from our failed attempt at rounding 'The Point.')
Still not wanting to take the stupid hike back up and over we tried to walk along a small access road running parallel to the big plant. It didn't take us long to run into a swarm of angry flying insects which sent us back the way we came. At this point it became obvious that someone was sending us a message to just do the stupid hike already and get it over with. We had run out of lifelines.
hour 'n a half or so later we made it back to the car and immediately took off, wanting to leave all memories of the morning's climb behind. Neither one of us were happy but hey, at least we're a bit more experienced now when it comes to rock climbing! I think author Laurence Gonzales would agree with me here as he once wrote that 'the word 'experienced' often refers to someone who's gotten away with doing the wrong thing more frequently than you have.' I'm just glad we got away with it!
Still not entirely sure what we had just climbed or why, we continued to drive aimlessly heading west along Jeju's southern coast. It wasn't long until we came across a sign pointing us to the Yongmeori Coast we had initially set out to find. . .great, if only we had driven on another 5 km instead of getting out to oogle at the first cliff!
At the next big turn off we followed a number of cars in to a parking lot surrounded with bustling vendors and activities. Walking down a long flight of stairs we came out long a quaint promenade of stores and, um, a horse 'track', and um, carnival rides, and um, a giant sailing vessel? Apparently, Yongmeori is not only celebrated for it's beautiful natural landscape but also for its ability to sell the story of a Dutchman, Hendrick Hamel, who was the first westerner to 'discover' and subsequently write about Korea.
I was immediately intrigued by the small horses, referring to them, apparently incorrectly so, as ponies. By this point Laura and I had already discussed her reservations about riding horses as one didn't take kindly to her in her youth and decided that it preferred Laura on the ground, rather than on its back. I however don't recall ever having ridden a horse and couldn't think of any better time then the present. So, I forked over 5,000 won to a dusty ole' cowboy and he helped me up on the back of one of his finest ladies.
A good kick in her side and off I went around a big dirt track. Here are my observations from my brief ride. Horses are really strong. Riding on one immediately makes you feel like a cowboy. Cowboys must have had terribly calloused backsides. It is obvious why jeans, tight in the crotch, were, are, and always will be preferred by horse riders. Anyways, my short ride was actually great fun though I was certainly glad when she finally came to a halt! Not sure if I ever need to do it again but if I do, I won't be wearing shorts with boxers, that's for sure.
Giddyap Cowboy!
The most beautiful ladies on Jeju!Dismounting and making sure that everything was still in one piece, we headed out towards the elusive Yongmeori coast. While we debated paying 2,500 won to walk amongst a bunch of rocks, as we had done so earlier in the day for free, we eventually caved in and coughed up the entrance fee based on the presumption that we wouldn't likely ever visit it again.
Hanyeo displaying the day's catchThe the short walk around the 'cliffs' are in fact beautiful, they aren't quite the National Geographic must have that LP made 'em out to be. Maybe it's because I was already fed up with geological formations, or perhaps the lighting was a bit off, then again it might have been my terrible sunburn setting in from walking along day on bright white rocks with no shirt on. It was beautiful, but, not awe inspiring. Worth the 2,500? Sure, but not more than once!
Where in the World is Lars!?The 'cliffs' at Yongmeori simply held nothing on those that we had just finished tackling. Even so, the eerily clear water that filled the pockets of volcanic rock made some pretty interesting tide pools. The only thing I regret is not eating at least one thing from a Haenyo though if we were to, who knows what we would order and how we would go about eating it. All I know is that it would likely be the freshest kill of the day, if not still squirming. The best view of all came just before heading back to the board walk where we could see both the cliffs and Sangbansan in the background. LP swears that its only a 10 minute walk up this 'craggy' mountain but neither of us were willing to test this hypothesis!
Sanbangsan from the Yongmeori CoastBack on dry, flat, solid, man-made land, we began searching our refueling options. Trying to make out the Korean on a number of different building, I was intrigued by one that offered a 'couples burger.' This sounded both big, and interesting, so we went to investigate. Remember that giant hamburger Laura mentioned earlier (Day 2), well, we had finally found it! It didn't take us long to order and as the ajumma pulled out a giant bun from Red Pond Herb Farm I knew that we had finally found this long awaited treat!
Though it wasn't the best burger I've ever had I couldn't argue with a single bite! Especially not after the day's numerous mishaps! We quickly wiped the plate clean of a meal that LP suggested could feed up to four people. Koreans, maybe, but greedy hungry westerners pissed off at the difficulties of the day, no way! Two tops!
Though it wasn't the best burger I've ever had I couldn't argue with a single bite! Especially not after the day's numerous mishaps! We quickly wiped the plate clean of a meal that LP suggested could feed up to four people. Koreans, maybe, but greedy hungry westerners pissed off at the difficulties of the day, no way! Two tops!
Laura and the Giant Burger from Red Pond Herb Farm
Flora at YongmeoriAfter lunch we did a bit of souvenir shopping before deciding that any more walking around would certainly be detrimental to our health. Thus, it was again time to eat. While in Korea, I have frequently been faced with the task of having to consume dried cuttlefish, or squid, known as ochingo. This popular treat is served at numerous bars to accompany drinks and is also a favorite street snack of Koreans. I have only really tasted it a few times and found it to be somewhat similar to a very fishy tasting jerky after I finally got over the smell which I initially found to be absolutely repulsive.
Well, there weren't a whole lot of snack options available at Yongmeori and Laura and I both wanted to try the Jeju Orange Wine (which is not recommended as it tastes like bad oj, or, bad oj gone bad) we kept seeing everywhere. So, well, you have to have something to eat with your drinks and ochingo is what we went for. After ordering, our dried squid was heated briefly on a rack of hot coals. Then, the rest was up to us. We ate the majority of the 'body' though we avoided the tentacles, mostly for aesthetic reasons! It wasn't great but I'd be lying if I said it wasn't growing on me!
Well, there weren't a whole lot of snack options available at Yongmeori and Laura and I both wanted to try the Jeju Orange Wine (which is not recommended as it tastes like bad oj, or, bad oj gone bad) we kept seeing everywhere. So, well, you have to have something to eat with your drinks and ochingo is what we went for. After ordering, our dried squid was heated briefly on a rack of hot coals. Then, the rest was up to us. We ate the majority of the 'body' though we avoided the tentacles, mostly for aesthetic reasons! It wasn't great but I'd be lying if I said it wasn't growing on me!
Ochingo and Jeju Orange WineAfter eating we took a quick spin through the giant replica ship of Hamel's that led him and his fated crew to spend seven years in the Hermit Kingdom during the Josen Dynasty. His story was pretty interesting and I can't help but feel bad for him as I've been here nine months and can't wait to get back to, well, anything else! Hamel's story was great but we didn't stick around to ponder life in tight quarters very long. Either he and his crew were shorter than the average Dutchman that I've met or moving about in those boats was not an easy task! I can't imagine that his Korean prison was any better though. . .
On our way out of 'town' I pulled off the road to examine a clothes line covered in, well, something. Turns out it was nothing more than the squid that we had eaten just a few minutes before. Mmmm, it's always good to know where your food comes from!
On our way out of 'town' I pulled off the road to examine a clothes line covered in, well, something. Turns out it was nothing more than the squid that we had eaten just a few minutes before. Mmmm, it's always good to know where your food comes from!
Out to dryWorking our way along the coastal roads we turned the three corner on Jeju and began working our way north along the western edge. We pulled off the road at random intervals to check out the sea below but didn't find anything to terribly exciting. A bit of cliffs here and some rocks there. This clearly isn't the exciting side of the island but if you're looking for peace and solitude, look no further!
Cliff Hanging(Thank you to Laura who held on to me as I precariously dangled myself over this drop off!)
I did stop once to try and grab some sunset pictures before turning east towards Jeju-si but unfortunately the sun wasn't quite ready to set and I wasn't about to wait any longer for it! So you take what you can get I guess. . .
Pre-Sunset from Northern JejuMaking our way into Jeju-si we plugged the LP recommended Bobos Motel into Navi and cruised onwards. As we pulled alongside the airport I noticed a small road rolling around back that Navi seemed to think was accessible. Veering off the highway we rolled down a small hill and over some rocks only to find ourselves on a winding path that did in fact lead just along the outskirts of the airport.
As we drove along slowly I noticed that the giant light towers we were passing under marked the impeding runway. Having never before watched a plane land from the back of a runway I thought this would be a great opportunity to do so. Boy was I right! We got out and waited for a plane to come and when it did, it did! Only a hundred feet or so above our heads roared a giant jet just seconds away from touching down. The noise, proximity and ferocity of its wake was so exhilarating that we decided to wait for another, and then another! While we forgot a blanket and didn't even actually lie on the top of the care, I felt like I was a highschooler in a 1970's coming of age movie. All I can say about this experience is that if you haven't stood under a landing plane, well, you're missing out on something big my friend!
As we drove along slowly I noticed that the giant light towers we were passing under marked the impeding runway. Having never before watched a plane land from the back of a runway I thought this would be a great opportunity to do so. Boy was I right! We got out and waited for a plane to come and when it did, it did! Only a hundred feet or so above our heads roared a giant jet just seconds away from touching down. The noise, proximity and ferocity of its wake was so exhilarating that we decided to wait for another, and then another! While we forgot a blanket and didn't even actually lie on the top of the care, I felt like I was a highschooler in a 1970's coming of age movie. All I can say about this experience is that if you haven't stood under a landing plane, well, you're missing out on something big my friend!
Hello There!Bobos proved to be every bit the Love Motel that LP said it was. Heck, we were even credited 5,000 won off the room price because I had a 'beautiful smile.' While it seemed that the ajumma was telling me this was the reason, I'm still certain she was talking about Laura but simply looking at me. I am after all not the beauty in this operation!
As for Lonely Planet, well, they've been pretty hit and miss with Korea but surprisingly spot on with Jeju. My only complaint was that the recommended 'Mexican' restaurant, El Paso, should be avoided at all costs. I've had my fair share of Mexican-style food here in Korea but this place didn't even come close. The only decent part of the meal was the taco salad and that's because it was mostly lettuce, there was nothing for the chef, who studied (but it doesn't say what) in Mexico City, to ruin!
Highly disappointed but too exhausted to care we crawled back to Bobos threw on a movie and I can't say that I even remember watching the opening credits. This was an exhausting, exhausting day. Back to Seoul tomorrow but not after first checking out the Mysterious Road (where an idling car rolls uphill) and of course, the much anticipated Jeju Love Land! Don't miss either, but they're going to be for you to find out about on your own.
Thanks for traveling with us!
'Cool, Welcome to Jeju.'
Jeju (Pt. 3): Hallasan National Park and Jungmun Beach
According to a number of different travel sources, including LP Korea, the trip up Mt. Halla (or Hallasan) is not only not to be missed but is often the highlight of a Jeju vacation. Either we came at a really bad time of the year or took the totally wrong trail because I can't say that either are entirely true. Sure the hiking is good fun and great exercise (if you enjoy torturing yourself) but as for the views, I would contend that scenery on my nearby Bulamsan are at least equal to what we encountered.
Apparently there are four primary trails leading up Hallasan that were only created relatively recently as the many free climbing hikers who took to the mountain each day had quickly started to destroy the landscape. Of the four routes, we went with the one most highly recommended by LP and the travel literature on island, the Eorimok Trail. The scenery on this hike is said to be beautiful and it is the most moderate of all the routes taking about 2 1/2 hours to get to the top.
The Yeongsil Trail ends at the same place as the Eorimok but via a substantially easier route. The Gwaneumsa and Seongpanak trail are both over 8.5 km and take a minimum of 4 hours up. Though, the advantage of the later two routes is that one gets to actually summit Hallasan and get a peak into the natural crater lake that has formed on top of the mountain. The former two hikes, including the one we took, do not go all the way to the summit as the trail is temporarily closed, until 2011, to allow regeneration of destroyed wildlife on the western side of the peak. Oh well, maybe we'll make it to the top next time!
After heading into a thick forest, we hiked for about a half kilometer before we were faced with a steep set of ascending stairs made of rock. This, unfortunately, turned out to be about the majority of the hike. Up we climbed, and climbed, and climbed, through thick sub-tropical jungle, continually hoping to get a view out over the south of the island but never actually getting a chance. Climbing higher the forest continued to grow thicker. While an abundance of wildlife is reported to live in the area, it seems as though the majority has learned to stay far away from the hiking trails. That is, except for the giant black magpies.
Finally, after an hour-plus on the natural StairMaster we burst out into a clearing, obviously passing some sort of tree line for the mountain's favorite residents. In only a matter of a few steps we passed from the dark green of a lush forest to a dry and barren gold of drying vegetation! The expanse was startling. For over an hour we could see no more than a few meters in each direction yet now the sky opened above us as though we had stepped into a recently harvested field on the Great Plains.
Big Sky, Jeju
After filling up on spring water we continued onwards at a much more manageable grade. While some of the trail was composed of loosely piled rocks, the majority was actually lifted up above the ground on wooden planks. My guess is that this was done in order to protect the wildlife underneath rather than make the hike easier for, as it seems, Koreans don't really dabble in simplicity when it comes to their hiking. The harder, the better!
Having started out at around 1,100 meters, we eventually made it to the mile high point as averred by the marker seen below.
Mile High in the Jeju Sky
We continued winding our way along the wooden platforms, all lone for the most part except for the occasional herd of school children who would come barreling past in the opposite direction, brushing us off the path as though we didn't exist. Thanks for saying excuse me guys!
In to the distance
Where are the flowers?
Witseoreum, We Made It!
Luckily Laura and I had pounded down a pair of gimbap earlier in the morning because the refueling station at Witsereum was rather light. To much on we had a choice between ramyeon, and well, ramyeon. There were choco pies of course for desert but we both opted to pass on the gooey marshmallow treat. Slurping down the last of the noodles, and the high sodium broth, we packed up and headed back down the trail, anxious to get going. Who wouldn't be when your next destination is the high acclaimed resort area of Jungmun Beach!
Back of the mountain we relieved ourselves of a whole lotta spring water then hopped back in the car and shot down cross-island highway 1139 towards Jungmun. Just before pulling into town, we veered off towards the coast to check out the 'legendary' Cheonjeyeon Pokpo (or waterfall).
A three tiered fall, we only managed to visit the top two before deciding that we had conquered more than enough of our fair share of stairs for the day. Anyways, the view from the footbridge spanning the falls was perhaps more spectacular than any view of the falls themselves!
Cheonjeyeon Footbridge
Cheonjeyeon's First Fall
The Lotte Hotel, Jeju
Finally making our way to the beach I'll have to admit that I was far from impressed. Widely recognized as the ritzy-resort area, I assumed Jungmun would be flanked by white sands as far as the eye could see. Rather, the beach reminded me of a wet sandbox that no one really wants to play in. The only truly interesting part about the beach was that is backed up to a lush escarpment that shot up towards the base of the hotels.
Either way, with the sun out and shining we took off for the far end to see what was going on. Although we certainly weren't alone on the beach, it didn't appear as though anyone had come with the idea of 'going to the beach' in mind. Everyone, literally everyone, was fully clothed and most even worse shoes. The few who were braving the chilly sea were equally as covered. From prying eyes or the suns rays I can't say with certainty. Therefore, in an act of defiance, I decided to whip off my shirt and give my torso a good ole' dose of Vitamin D that it has so long craved working under fluorescent lights, my arch nemesis, all day.
Jungmun Beach
Having had enough of the mediocre sand and cold surf we headed topside to check out the small boardwalk. Only a few steps away from the beach access is the Jeju-renowned Pacific Land. This rather small indoor venue hosts a slew of daily wildlife shows using dolphins, sea lions, and monkeys to entertain the masses. While I briefly entertained the thought of attending, as I did miss the dolphin show at Seoul Grand Park, seeing how poorly the animals' living conditions were in their less than capacious outdoor cages was enough to deter us from supporting the place any further. To be honest it looks rather aged and unkempt, almost as though others have begun to frequent it less and less too. . .good going!
Outside Pacific Land
Growing hungry we began to discuss our dinner possibilities. So far, all we had really seen on the island are two choices, hwae, raw fish, or Korean bbq. This is why a sign pointing towards an all-you-can-eat seafood buffet quickly grabbed our attention. While normally such a deal just outside of an animal theme park would seem a bit off putting, the idea of eating fresh seafood while overlooking the sea seemed, well, seaworthy.
Turns out just to get to the restaurant involved a bit of a hike itself as we had to go up down and around and down some more to get to the water front restaurant pictured below. After surveying the place and the menu we decided that the 35,000 was worth it, especially as we had worked up quite a hunger that day. So, we hightailed it to the main office, which also operates the sailing cruises and unfortunately Pacific Land. Inquiring as to making a reservation we were told that there was only one time left available, 5:30. Being 4:30 as it was this seemed like a ridiculous notion, especially as we had yet to find a hotel and showers were certainly in order. We did after all climb to 1,700 meters earlier in the day!
We politely declined and turned away disheartened right before I dashed back inside and assured them that we'll be there. All but picking Laura up and throwing her in the car I was determined to find a place to get settled and then get back to the Shangri-La Restaurant before 5:30. . .or, at least around then!
The Shangri-La Seafood Buffet from the Jungmun Boardwalk
Gold Beach Minbak
In a random twist of fate, or a meticulously planned maneuver, we somehow both managed to shower, change and make it back to the Shagri-La just after 5:30. While they at first pretended not to acknowledge our hastily made reservation, a quick call to the office top-side straightened everything out and got us a seat, next to the door and across from the waiters table. Hey, you can't win 'em all!
For the next hour 'n a half we dined on an array of seafood treats, some familiar and others, well, anything but! Sashimi and sushi of all varieties, king crab legs, fried octopus, boiled squid, hot chicken wings, seafood filled egg pancakes, noodles, rice, samgyeopsal, jelly fish (which we both did try) and much more! Oh yeah, plus an array of fruit and most importantly, ice cream, for desert! While the seafood wasn't the best I've ever had, it sure beat eating gimbap or another overstuffed night of bbq! Mmm mmm good, and, who can argue with free Cass on tap!
The Shangri-La Yacht and Seafood Club
Lars pounding down the sea creatures!
Sunset on Jungmun Beach
Out to sea. . .
Lotte Hotel's windmills at night
Apparently there are four primary trails leading up Hallasan that were only created relatively recently as the many free climbing hikers who took to the mountain each day had quickly started to destroy the landscape. Of the four routes, we went with the one most highly recommended by LP and the travel literature on island, the Eorimok Trail. The scenery on this hike is said to be beautiful and it is the most moderate of all the routes taking about 2 1/2 hours to get to the top.
The Yeongsil Trail ends at the same place as the Eorimok but via a substantially easier route. The Gwaneumsa and Seongpanak trail are both over 8.5 km and take a minimum of 4 hours up. Though, the advantage of the later two routes is that one gets to actually summit Hallasan and get a peak into the natural crater lake that has formed on top of the mountain. The former two hikes, including the one we took, do not go all the way to the summit as the trail is temporarily closed, until 2011, to allow regeneration of destroyed wildlife on the western side of the peak. Oh well, maybe we'll make it to the top next time!
After heading into a thick forest, we hiked for about a half kilometer before we were faced with a steep set of ascending stairs made of rock. This, unfortunately, turned out to be about the majority of the hike. Up we climbed, and climbed, and climbed, through thick sub-tropical jungle, continually hoping to get a view out over the south of the island but never actually getting a chance. Climbing higher the forest continued to grow thicker. While an abundance of wildlife is reported to live in the area, it seems as though the majority has learned to stay far away from the hiking trails. That is, except for the giant black magpies.
Finally, after an hour-plus on the natural StairMaster we burst out into a clearing, obviously passing some sort of tree line for the mountain's favorite residents. In only a matter of a few steps we passed from the dark green of a lush forest to a dry and barren gold of drying vegetation! The expanse was startling. For over an hour we could see no more than a few meters in each direction yet now the sky opened above us as though we had stepped into a recently harvested field on the Great Plains.
Big Sky, JejuAfter filling up on spring water we continued onwards at a much more manageable grade. While some of the trail was composed of loosely piled rocks, the majority was actually lifted up above the ground on wooden planks. My guess is that this was done in order to protect the wildlife underneath rather than make the hike easier for, as it seems, Koreans don't really dabble in simplicity when it comes to their hiking. The harder, the better!
Having started out at around 1,100 meters, we eventually made it to the mile high point as averred by the marker seen below.
Mile High in the Jeju SkyWe continued winding our way along the wooden platforms, all lone for the most part except for the occasional herd of school children who would come barreling past in the opposite direction, brushing us off the path as though we didn't exist. Thanks for saying excuse me guys!
In to the distanceWhile I've heard reports, and seen pictures, of Hallasan in bloom, we clearly missed that by a few weeks. All the tall yellow flowers noted for their impressive beauty had since died out and the only real color we were left with were a few blooming rhododendrons located sparsely throughout the climb.
Where are the flowers?After breaking out of the forest, it took just under an hour for us to reach the Witseoreum Shelter, the top of our climb! Here we were afforded a beautiful view of Hallasan's peak but unfortunately, the nearby cliffs rose up to high and prevented us any real view of the sea down below.
Witseoreum, We Made It!Luckily Laura and I had pounded down a pair of gimbap earlier in the morning because the refueling station at Witsereum was rather light. To much on we had a choice between ramyeon, and well, ramyeon. There were choco pies of course for desert but we both opted to pass on the gooey marshmallow treat. Slurping down the last of the noodles, and the high sodium broth, we packed up and headed back down the trail, anxious to get going. Who wouldn't be when your next destination is the high acclaimed resort area of Jungmun Beach!
Back of the mountain we relieved ourselves of a whole lotta spring water then hopped back in the car and shot down cross-island highway 1139 towards Jungmun. Just before pulling into town, we veered off towards the coast to check out the 'legendary' Cheonjeyeon Pokpo (or waterfall).
A three tiered fall, we only managed to visit the top two before deciding that we had conquered more than enough of our fair share of stairs for the day. Anyways, the view from the footbridge spanning the falls was perhaps more spectacular than any view of the falls themselves!
Cheonjeyeon Footbridge
Cheonjeyeon's First FallFrom the falls we took the short drive down towards the beach where we cruised in and out of the different resort complexes. While accommodations such as the Vegas-style Lotte Hotel (pictured below), art-deco Hyatt Regency and chic Silla Jeju were recommended to us by my co-teachers, we figured that 300,000 Won wasn't quite worth whatever they had to offer. Even so, they certainly were worth exploring as the grounds of these three establishments are pristine!
Lotte Hotel was by far the most interesting as it's enormous property is situated on a cliff overlooking Jungmun Beach. The palace-like hotel is further accented by an enormous pool area that includes a paddle-boat pond, mini-volcano and even three enormous Dutch-style windmills.
Lotte Hotel was by far the most interesting as it's enormous property is situated on a cliff overlooking Jungmun Beach. The palace-like hotel is further accented by an enormous pool area that includes a paddle-boat pond, mini-volcano and even three enormous Dutch-style windmills.
The Lotte Hotel, JejuFinally making our way to the beach I'll have to admit that I was far from impressed. Widely recognized as the ritzy-resort area, I assumed Jungmun would be flanked by white sands as far as the eye could see. Rather, the beach reminded me of a wet sandbox that no one really wants to play in. The only truly interesting part about the beach was that is backed up to a lush escarpment that shot up towards the base of the hotels.
Either way, with the sun out and shining we took off for the far end to see what was going on. Although we certainly weren't alone on the beach, it didn't appear as though anyone had come with the idea of 'going to the beach' in mind. Everyone, literally everyone, was fully clothed and most even worse shoes. The few who were braving the chilly sea were equally as covered. From prying eyes or the suns rays I can't say with certainty. Therefore, in an act of defiance, I decided to whip off my shirt and give my torso a good ole' dose of Vitamin D that it has so long craved working under fluorescent lights, my arch nemesis, all day.
Jungmun BeachHaving had enough of the mediocre sand and cold surf we headed topside to check out the small boardwalk. Only a few steps away from the beach access is the Jeju-renowned Pacific Land. This rather small indoor venue hosts a slew of daily wildlife shows using dolphins, sea lions, and monkeys to entertain the masses. While I briefly entertained the thought of attending, as I did miss the dolphin show at Seoul Grand Park, seeing how poorly the animals' living conditions were in their less than capacious outdoor cages was enough to deter us from supporting the place any further. To be honest it looks rather aged and unkempt, almost as though others have begun to frequent it less and less too. . .good going!
Outside Pacific LandGrowing hungry we began to discuss our dinner possibilities. So far, all we had really seen on the island are two choices, hwae, raw fish, or Korean bbq. This is why a sign pointing towards an all-you-can-eat seafood buffet quickly grabbed our attention. While normally such a deal just outside of an animal theme park would seem a bit off putting, the idea of eating fresh seafood while overlooking the sea seemed, well, seaworthy.
Turns out just to get to the restaurant involved a bit of a hike itself as we had to go up down and around and down some more to get to the water front restaurant pictured below. After surveying the place and the menu we decided that the 35,000 was worth it, especially as we had worked up quite a hunger that day. So, we hightailed it to the main office, which also operates the sailing cruises and unfortunately Pacific Land. Inquiring as to making a reservation we were told that there was only one time left available, 5:30. Being 4:30 as it was this seemed like a ridiculous notion, especially as we had yet to find a hotel and showers were certainly in order. We did after all climb to 1,700 meters earlier in the day!
We politely declined and turned away disheartened right before I dashed back inside and assured them that we'll be there. All but picking Laura up and throwing her in the car I was determined to find a place to get settled and then get back to the Shangri-La Restaurant before 5:30. . .or, at least around then!
The Shangri-La Seafood Buffet from the Jungmun BoardwalkWe both agreed to simply plug in the best sounding LP recommendation to Navi and and just do it. Turns out this was a great idea! The Gold Beach Minbak was no more than a mile up from the beach and our third floor balcony room offered a superb view of the falls, botanical garden and South Sea! For 50,000 this was by far the nicest place we stayed on the island. Might not have compared to Lotte but we still had cash left over for dinner at least!
Gold Beach MinbakIn a random twist of fate, or a meticulously planned maneuver, we somehow both managed to shower, change and make it back to the Shagri-La just after 5:30. While they at first pretended not to acknowledge our hastily made reservation, a quick call to the office top-side straightened everything out and got us a seat, next to the door and across from the waiters table. Hey, you can't win 'em all!
For the next hour 'n a half we dined on an array of seafood treats, some familiar and others, well, anything but! Sashimi and sushi of all varieties, king crab legs, fried octopus, boiled squid, hot chicken wings, seafood filled egg pancakes, noodles, rice, samgyeopsal, jelly fish (which we both did try) and much more! Oh yeah, plus an array of fruit and most importantly, ice cream, for desert! While the seafood wasn't the best I've ever had, it sure beat eating gimbap or another overstuffed night of bbq! Mmm mmm good, and, who can argue with free Cass on tap!
The Shangri-La Yacht and Seafood Club
Lars pounding down the sea creatures!After dinner, trying to move anywhere was like pushing a cruise ship into port with your bare hands. We slowly and uncomfortably ambled up the steps at the beach towards Lotte Hotel to check out the romanticized views. While none of the sunsets on Jeju were spectacular by any means, the final rays of light that came up over the far end of Jungmun did a great job of reminding me why I will always be a sucker for island life!
Sunset on Jungmun Beach
Out to sea. . .Hoping to catch a glimpse of the resort town's nightlife, we ambled from the Lotte to the Shilla and all the way down to the Hyatt in search of something happening. Turns out, nothing was. We ducked in to the casinos at each of the hotels but the two that were open (Shilla's was actually closed) seemed deader than the crab we had just finished eating. So we moved on. Finally, at the end of the road, meaning the Hyatt, we hopped in a luxury taxi and bolted back up towards Golden Beach where we figured we might find something more exciting on the commercial strip. Again, we were wrong. Maybe it was being there mid week, or perhaps the excitement really is all contained within Pacific Land but from what we found, Jungmun was a lot of bark and no bite to follow up!
Time to get to bed, tomorrow we got a big day of rock 'climbing' ahead!
Time to get to bed, tomorrow we got a big day of rock 'climbing' ahead!
Lotte Hotel's windmills at night
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