And Then There Were Three. . .

So begins the Korean adventures of neighborhood friend and longtime classmate Steve Greene!

Welcome Steve!
(Check out Steve's blog for more on his experience in the Land of the Morning Calm.)

Wednesday morning I uncomfortably was awoken by an early morning phone call from an unrecognizable number. Hitting silent and rolling back over I realized that I had just hung up on a 517 my area code at home. This seemed all too strange as normally when people call from the States, or Skype, it comes up as 'Hidden.' I tried to call the number back but was told that it didn't exist. Only then did I remember Steve telling me that he had purchased a 517 number from Skype so that he can receive incoming 'local' calls.

While the last time I checked in with Steve he still hadn't heard anything about his flight out to Korea, I didn't second guess the possibility that he had been booked and shipped out with 24 of us speaking, certainly not leaving time to contact anyone with the news. This call had to be from him.

Unwillingly, I rose from my couch and stumbled to the computer where I, sure enough, found Steve in the world wide Skype-o-sphere. He informed me that he had arrived a few hours before at Incheon and since been wandering around his new digs in Cheonho, just south of the great Han River.

I suggested we meet up for breakfast and said that I'd try and rouse Nate whom I'm sure was soundly sleeping. This was after all at 9:00am and it's not like we have real jobs to get to or anything! (On that note, a girl I met the other night noted that her current situation was akin to a 'waiter's life,' I completely understand, and agree.)

A few hours later Nate and I popped out of Samgakji Station, certain that it would take a miracle for Steve to do the same. Alas, after only 15 minutes or so a bewildered Greene rose from the depths of Samgakji Station, Exit 10. From there it was only a quick walk north towards the USO Canteen and a real American breakfast! Or so I thought. . .

Alas, we showed up just a few minutes to late for the grand-slam-breakfast that I was eagerly looking forward to. Even so, I settled for a home cooked chili 'n cheese burger with a side of black coffe, and a mango Snapple to boot. This exhausted the last of my USD that I had collected in change from my backpack upon arriving, and returning from the Gras.

After 'breakfast' we took Steve up and out to lunch in Junggye, to show him 'life as we know it.' Munching gimbap on the corner of Eunhang Sa-geori is about as exciting as it gets here in northern Nowon, but hey, that's life. After showing him around Dootavil we sent him back reeling towards his new home as Nate and I took off for another exciting day at DYB.

That wouldn't be the last of Steve that we saw on Wednesday however as he came back to find us at the end of work. Wanting to introduce him proudly to a number of Korean traditions, we headed straight out for the nearest chicken hof were Steve got more than his fill of yangyam chicken, soju, and The Sound of Vitality. Not wanting to send him back in a cab alone, Steve sent up camp at my place for the evening and got his first taste of loft life.

I didn't see Steve again until Saturday morning when we had agreed to meet up and check out his neck of the woods. Unfortunately, Nate wasn't able to come as he took off this weekend for Tokyo and won't be returning until Wednesday morning. Shhhh, don't tell his students though as Anna told me today that he can't tell anyone or else parents will take their kids out of DYB. Why, you might ask. Well because of swine flu of course! Not to over generalize but, I have never encountered a more ridiculously paranoid culture.

Anyways. . .green Line 7 down to Gunja, hope on purple Line 5 and get off at Cheonho, where one can transfer to the pink Line 8, if need be. Out exist three and 300 meteres down on your left you'll find a large brown apartment building. Go to room 1406, on the top floor, and you'll find, well Steve.

The Kid's New Digs

All I can say about his place is, well, I would love to have a real shower, counter space and sure wish someone had left me a bunch of leather couches! Other than that, it's very Korean. Small, efficient, and surrounded by other apartments. Though I do admit that the view from the 14th floor is somewhat more spectacular than from the fourth!

After breaking in the already broken in couches, we headed out on the town to wander around his new neighborhood. We soon decided to head towards Olympic Park where neither Nate nor I have yet to visit in Seoul. . .oops!

On our way, we got a call from Steve's new coworker, and my Spitfire teammate, David, letting us know about a baseball game later that day. David also offered to take me to a store where he had saw Sanuks on sale only a few days ago. Knowing that I was in the market for a new pair this was an extremely kind gesture that I readily accepted.

So, in order to make the game in time, Steve and I hauled through Olympic Park only stopping for a handful of pictures and a melon popsicle, a hot day mainstay!

One of the 200+ art installations in Olympic Park with the swimming complex in the background.

On the other side we met David at Mongchongtoseong Station, just beneath his Parkview pad. We headed towards Jamsil station where we descended into a sprawling underground arcade that doubles as the entrance to Lotte World. Down a long hallway we entered a shoe store, Athletes Foot where I was shocked to find a small display of Sanuk sidewalk surfers. By this point in my journey I've already contact Sanuk and asked them to direct me to a dealer in Seoul yet they have been unable to do so. Thus, this was a welcome surprise.

Unfortunately, the shoes they had on display are essentially the exact same ones I currently own and what I'm looking for is a new pair in one of their more rugged styles to hopefully guide me on my way throughout SE Asia. I didn't pick up a pair just then but it's good to know where to find 'em if i can't build up the gall to order yet another pair of shoes online (as neither of the last two have fit).

Peace Gate at Olympic Park

Okay, okay, back to the point. From Jamsil we hopped on the subway two stops over to the Sports Complex where, for 8,000 won, we were able to pick up seats in the Yellow Section for a game between the LG Twins and the Doosan Bears. As Joseph has made it known on more than one occasion that he is a huge fan of Doosan, I could only cheer for the later team. Good thing too as we ended up sitting in the Doosan section!

National Anthem-ing

Matter of fact, we didn't actually really sit in any section as we rather were forced to plop down in the aisle on concrete stairs. Apparently, we had arrived much to late to get a chunk of 7 seats together as many of the die hard fans, a breed of which everyone at the game is obviously of, arrive unreasonably early to scout out spots. Good thing we paid for the cheap seats cause, well, that's what we ended up getting!

Thunder Sticks!

The game was an absolute blast and even though Doosan lost, everyone had a fantastic time. The energy in the stadium was simply unreal and I'm sure not matched in the States except for the biggest of events. Keep in mind too that this was a top ranked team playing a last ranked team and not once did the stadium grow quiet. The only thing I can think of to compare the energy to is that of a European soccer match, though I've never actually been to one!

Both sides are constantly engaged in back and forth cheering, seemingly without any jeering. Everything is always positive and even the worst batter on the team gets his name chanted when up to bat, no matter how many times he strikes out!

As the sun fell and so did the Bears, we decided to get out before everyone else made the same move. At the top of the 9th we seemed to be some of the only people making our way towards the gates despite the game being over long, long ago!

Nightime at Jamsil Stadium!

With a handful of Steve's coworkers, two of whom I play soccer with (or, one with and one against) we made it to a highly acclaimed Shabu Shabu restaurant that I've heard about for months. While it was certainly delicious, I'm not by any means going to recommend it over our local spot. Sure, the broth was thick and spicy while ours is a bit watery, but we get a much better selection of vegetables and no one, I mean no one can argue with the cup of icy plum tea that finishes the meal!

From Shabu Shabu it was off to Gold Bar where we spent the rest of the night playing terrible pool, playing with a husky, sipping on delicious cocktails and discussing the following day's Han River derby between the two teams in our club, Spitfires and Harriers. On that note, all that needs to be said is that the Harriers got their plate cleaned as we Spitfires tore through their lines with remarkable precision executed beautiful by our newest Korean recruits, aptly named Dragon and Star!

While I've got less than 80 days to go here in Seoul, Steve is just getting started so don't forget to visit him every so often and listen in on a fresh perspective of life on the Han.

And she looked just like Kita, for those of you who know!

Cherry Blossoms

I know it's a bit late but during the first week of April were treated to the beautiful sight of citywide cherry blossoms. While I never made it down to the actual 'festival' in Yeoido, our little intersection is lined with these blossoming trees as are the neighboring parks. . .here are a few snapshots for you to enjoy as spring progresses into the 'green' season!

Happy Spring!

Seoul Grand Park

Last Saturday we finally decided to embark on a long awaited adventure to Seoul Grand Park! As it's located just off of light blue Line 4, we were able to hop on the metro at Sanggye and grab a seat for the almost hour long journey. While still accessible by subway, the Park is actually located just south of Seoul's city limits.

All Aboard to Seoul Grand Park

Although LP informed us that we would have the opportunity to visit a zoo, contemporary art museum and Seoul Lane amusement park, it failed to mention that one would need an entire weekend to thoroughly enjoy the full experience. Coming up out of the subway we followed the massive crowds towards the park's administrative building where we picked up an English guide map.

We decided that a visit to the zoo was certainly in order but couldn't quite figure out where it was. Turns out we had a few different options to get there as just entering Grand Park doesn't mean you've arrived at the zoo. For a nominal fee (under a dollar) you can take an animal themed tram running up to the entrance, about a half-mile up hill. Or, for the more environmentally friendly crowd, there's always the option of walking. And, last, but certainly not least, for the ski bum who just didn't get enough time on the chair lift during the winter, there's always the Sky Lift!

Sky Lift to the zoo anyone?!

At first we decided to pass on the different mechanical modes of transportation and began the hike up up towards the entrance. As we browsed our newly acquired guide map we realized that the Sky Lift actually takes you up and over the zoo, much cooler than we had originally though. So, even though we were half way up, we decided to run back and grab tickets to go up in style.

Turns out there's not one Sky Life but two as the first one stops at the entrance to the zoo and the second one takes you all the way to the back so you can then walk downhill, as the zoo itself is set in a rising valley between two mountains. We were a bit taken aback at first by the 9,000 won ticket price for a simple chair lift ride. But, realizing that the opportunity to see a zoo from the air only comes every so often, we splurged! Enjoy the views!

Up and over the pond

The Children's Gardens, not quite yet in bloom

We disembarked our first Sky Lift ride at the entrance to the zoo where we picked up tickets for admission for only 3,000 a piece. We were shocked to enter the zoo and see the line for the second Sky Lift running down a pathway for hundreds of meters. While we did pay for two trips on the lift, neither of us wanted to wait in line for an hour just to get to the top of the zoo. So we didn't. Instead we decided to simply start exploring and then use the ticket to come down from the top later, as the Sky Lift operates both ways.

It wasn't long before we stumbled into the Africa Pavilion, which is identifiable not only by the giraffes, rhinos and elephants but by some brilliant signage as well.

Welcome to Africa!

In case you couldn't tell by the animals. . .

There's always great signs! Jambo!

Wandering out of Africa we crossed a dry creek bed and arrived in Australia only moments later. Here, on the outskirts of the zoo we shot the breeze with the kangas for a while as they munched on lunch. Nate even found a dead one but decided against alerting anyone. He didn't wanna stir up any unnecessary trouble!

Lunch Time in 'Roo-ville

It take long for us to wander from Australia over to an oddly decorated building that identified itself as an Insectarium. To be honest, I don't believe that I had ever previously visited such an attraction so of course, we had to indulge. Once inside we both immediately began itching ourselves as the creepy crawlers in every cage do not make you any more fond of the insect world! So, we scuttled through quickly in Korean fashion, only slowly down as we exited through the amphibian room housed in a humid green house at the end of the building. Two floors on insects was more than I needed, but now I don't have to go back!

The Insectarium!

Hanging' with Frogs

When the line grew too long for me to take the elephant slide, down through this big guy's trunk, I decided to just hop on top instead. I could've spent all day at the Children's Playground but I would have likely stepped on a few in the process. So we bailed.

Trunk This!

As always, the primates proved to be an absolute riot! Even the humans got in on the ridiculous action as it seems Koreans were taught at a very young age that feeding the animals in the zoo is not only acceptable but recommended. Nate and I hung around and watched in awe as the cute little guys below were fed everything from salted french fries to bananas and Korean churros. Why and how this last Spanish snack exists in Korea is beyond me but they are nearly ubiquitous! Anyways, momma monkey (shown below) clearly realized that by showing off the cute youngster hanging from her chest she could pull in extra goodies. It worked like a charm!

Using the baby as bait. . .typical

Inside the Oriental Pavilion we got a great look at a some extremely boring gibbons and a pair of inactive yet nonetheless terrifying, crocs. No, the picture below was not exactly brilliant National Geographic timing on my behalf. Rather, the big guy was simply lying there with his mouth agape, I'm sure just waiting for a small child to fall in!

Say 'Kimchi!'

Finally at the back of the zoo we found our way to the Sky Lift but realized that we had much yet to see in the zoo. Just out the lift's exist we spent a while staring a a bunch of lazy big cats that were impressive only by reputation. Though none lent themselves to any amazing photos, as you'll soon see the bears did, the jaguar was by far the champion of beauty as her silky coat threw back the light of the sun with such a vengeance it looked as if she were aglow!

Anyways, bring on the bears! I was particularly excited to see this exhibit as only days before I had finished John Irving's first novel, Setting Free the Bears, which he himself completed at the ripe age of 25 as a Master's thesis! Though I had tried reading it before, it took me until this second time around to truly appreciate the absolute hilarity of a story so random, perverted, nonsensical and riveting that it could be by the same man who created Garp and Owen.

While I didn't at first have any intention of going through with Siggy's plan to release the bears, after seeing how good natured and friendly they were, I sure would have liked to. Not only did they take time away from their 'hanging out' to pose. . .

Now that's just chillin!

...but they were kind enough to wave as well!

A friend of Siggy, no doubt!

Waving goodbye to the bears, and vowing to come back later with the keys, we moved onwards towards a more familiar scene in the bison pavilion. Other than the signage and Korean kids feeding them hamburgers (just kidding) it looked almost like taking a walk in Yellowstone. Oh, but with fences too.

North America is represented!

Though we arrived at the Dolphin Show Hall just in time to catch the last show, the line again crept through the crowds further than we could see and thus opted against going in. At least there was a cool statue outside.

I'm my own dolphin show.

At this point we found our selves stuck in the middle of the zoo almost ready to go as we had seen nearly everything, but the lions (which are separate from other 'big cats'). The only problem was that we had a Sky Lift ride already paid for and neither one of us was brave enough try and negotiate a refund in Konglish. So, we did the only reasonable thing, gave the tickets away to a poor family waiting at the bottom of the line. Just Kidding. Rather, we walked all the way down to the bottom of the zoo where the line had finally disappeared and hopped on, only to go back up to where we had just come from!

But hey, at least we got to ride in style over all the animals!

A Zoo from Above!

Back up top we hurried quickly down again, only stopping to check out the lions who proved to be equally inactive as their other feline friends. By this point the sun had begun to sink and it was time to throw the sweat shirt back on which meant it was definitely time to get outta Dodge!

Though we didn't have time to check out the light installations in the contemporary art museum or the roller coasters of Seoul Land, we did at least get one thing we were looking for. A great picture with a great big cat!

A Day at the Zoo!

Slumin' It

Now that Winter Intensive has begun I actually have quite a bit of free time on my hands. Not only that but I work during the mornings now so that the time I do have off isn't clouded over by the concession that I'll eventually have to go to work!

Spending the first part of the week with my family, running from Junggye to Gangnam and back, I didn't really get a chance to appreciate my new schedule. Come Thursday however I was out of work by four o'clock and had nothing to do until 11:00 the following morning! While it was too late to try a trek up the side of Bulamsan, which I've yet to do, I felt like the end of a beautiful day needed to be enjoyed outside. Thus, Nate and I went off on a 'nature walk,' that we had explored a week or so before.

Nature Walking

Just down the street, or to be more exact, up a hill and down the other side, there lies a small park that leads up a rather large hill from which you can look down on our little corner of commerce. The last time we did this walk we went all the way up and over the hill. Coming out on the backside we were shocked to find what looked like a sort of shanty town just kind of throw together and discarded some many years ago.


We stood for a while on the hillside just wondering how exactly such a slummy place could exist here in Junggye while everything else about it seems to scream Korean middle class. Perhaps that's why it's tucked away behind a hill, safe from the unadventurous Foreign Teachers eyes as well as those of 'respectable' Koreans. Who knows, I probably never will.

Headed down the backside

Anyways, it was quite a site to see what Nate could only describe as 'the real Asia.' This is exactly what it looked like. Set against the foothills of Bulansam, this small 'town' looked like it could have just as easily existed thousands of years ago in the same place, without the rusted motorbikes of course.

Bulamsan, the secret village, and highrises in the background

As we slowly walked down the embankment that sharply separated this settlement from the newly paved highway, we stopped at the sight of a young girl on a roof. Dressed in a tattered purple jacket, a girl of no more than 11 crouched over a stick that she was carefully smoothing down while her small, and dirty, canine companion looked on. The two of us stood, fascinated at this sight of this simple activity, knowing full well that just over the hill tens of thousands of children her age were shelling out tens of thousands of won to learn a language that she might have never heard of.

Unable to pull away we watched her go about her whittling until the stick was smooth enough to give to her little friend. By that time however the pup had lost all interest in playing with the stick and instead had turned his attention towards us staring at him. We finally caught the girl's eye and tried to cheerfully wave hello. She abashedly turned away without showing a great deal of interest, but, knowing we were still watching, continued to try and entice her dog to play with her carefully cured stick.

As the sun began to set we realized that we had only twenty minutes to get back home and shower before our final DYB band practice. Hurriedly making our way back towards Eunang Sa-gori neither of us could get over the fact the we hadn't thought to bring a camera and thus were left with only a faded memory of this little girl, who, inexplicably, offered a sort of insight and vision into Korea that I think both of us might have been looking for but had, until then, left undiscovered.

Anyways, a week or so later we found ourselves back on this 'nature walk' headed up and over the backside of the hill. Entering from a different trail head this time we stumbled upon a cement bunker dug out of the hillside. While we have no idea how old this thing is, why it's there or who would have used it, it sure was cool to play around! Though the entrance was once guarded by barbed wire, it had long ago been brushed aside, presumably by someone taking shelter in it. . .and no, certainly not by teenagers looking to party in the woods, I'll guarantee you that!

Enter the Bunker. . .

Bunker Hill?

After a war-enactment photo shoot of warding off North Koreans with sticks, we headed back towards the trail.

Gunnin' for the enemies!

Hide 'n Seek: Korean Version

At the top, we stopped at the summit work out station to try out the different twisty machines and I gave the 'inverter' a shot. Not quite sure what this thing does but you loop your feet into some bars on the bottom of it then lean back to flip your head to the ground and feet towards the sky. We've seen people hang like this indefinitely while others use the smooth axle to rotate back and forth from right side up to upside down. Me, I just liked flipping myself, yelling while I went, realizing I was causing a ruckus, and taking off down the backside!

Rooftop with a view

Armed with cameras this time we began the short decent down the far side of the hill towards our secret town. While I managed to get a few shots of the area and some rooftops, these pictures really don't do justice to the stark contrast of this settlement's existence in the middle of what is otherwise a highrise concrete jungle.

Nestled in the foothills of Bulamsan

To our dismay, the only thing we found on the rooftops were pots of fermenting kimchi. Hardly as exciting as our previous visit. While we didn't get a glimpse of this mystery child, I would be willing to bet that my wandering feet take me back over the hill a few more times while I'm here. Whether I'll be armed with a camera is yet to be known, but hey, if I see her again, I'll tell her you said hello.

Rooftop Kimchi Pots

If you're ever in the area, try not to stick to the main roads, it all grows so dull after a while. Actually if you're ever anywhere, try not to stick to the main roads. If that's all you do then all you'll ever see are things that everyone else already has. . .and you know that their pictures are probably better than yours. . .so just steal 'em off flickr and tell people that's where you went. . .that's what I do! (Just kidding, by the way. . .all pictures on this site are the product of the my or Nathan Kochanski's eye and thus are open to the public for use. . .unless you're willing to compensate me, in which case I'll humbly accept.)

Never mind that mumbo jumbo, what I meant to say was, whenever you're out and about, don't forget to stop and smell the slums, sometimes that's all you need to realize that life isn't always sweeter on the other side of the hill!

100th Day!

We all measure time passed in our own way; by celebrating another completed year of life on our birthdays, acknowledging the changing seasons, counting down to special dates or preparing for long awaited anniversaries. Here in Korea, I count completed days!

Well, not really, on a given day I'd be able to give you a ballpark figure of how long I've been here but certainly do not wake up and make a new notch on the wall every morning. I do however do a few things to help not only pass the time but make the passing time seem relevant.

Once upon a time, someone, I believe it was cousin Stef, told me that I, like her, am a 'counter.' This means that we selectively, yet often inexplicably, count things. . .whether this is done intentional or subconsciously, I don't know, but, it happens! Here in Korea I find myself counting how long I've been, but in a number of different ways.

I know for example that I've paid utilities twice, played in eleven soccer games, collected three paychecks, and, at the time of this writing, am 28% done with my contract. How do I figure that last number you ask? Easy! It's perhaps my favorite to calculate as it takes little to no thought and offers me something to look forward to at the end of each week.

You see, I agreed to a year long contract here in Seoul: 52 weeks. Fortunately, however, I am allowed two weeks of vacation. That brings the total number of weeks that I have to work down to an even 50. Divide that into a hundred and you realize that each completed work week brings me two percent closer to the end of my obligation at DYB! Well it's not as neurotic as actually counting days, it still allows me the chance to have some sense of progress, accompanied by a little celebration every now and then!

The reason I'm telling you this, well, I'm not too sure actually. All I really meant to say is that today, the 29th of November, marks my 100th full day of living in Seoul! How exciting, right!? And, in order to celebrate this festive occasion, Nate and I spent the past week compiling a list of 100 observations about life here in the 'Land of the Morning Calm.'

While the original list was divided into categories, I decided to erase the headings in order to avoid a restrictive framework that would allow critics to say things such as "I can't believe you didn't mention _____ under the _____ category," or "Is _____ really an issue that relates to ______?" Not that any of you would do that, but, there are a heck of a lot of grumpy foreigners here who seem to have little to do other than critique others via this world wide interweb. . . not me of course! Okay. . .I'm lying. . .I took away the titles because I couldn't figure out how to keep the numbering continuous with occasional interruptions for sections headings. . .you caught me, congratulations!

The list below reflects our own, personal observations and cannot, nor should not be taken as a comprehensive picture of life in Seoul. Neither however should it be ignored or overlooked. . .this is perhaps the most important reading you will do this week, for next time someone asks you about pickled cabbage or soju etiquette, you will feel at ease knowing that you are well versed on such subjects.

Interesting enough, one of the speaking tests that Nate and I had to correct this past week was from the point of view of a foreigner who had been living in Seoul for almost two years. While I do not remember the exact wording (which, ironically, is what I was checking for), the character made the observation that Seoul is a very different place from his home. . .not that it is all together backwards but simply that there are a lot of small differences, and these, are what he notices most!

This short dialogue resonated deeply with me. My life in Korea, thus far, is so wildly different from life in the states yet so markedly similar at the same time. I live in an apartment with running water and electricity, I have a job, a boss, and coworkers, I can watch tv when I please, I go to restaurants, bars, museums and movies, I have friends (sort of), I use my cellphone almost everyday (and I actually pay the bill myself), and, I can keep in touch with those at home via the Google and highspeed interweb. In this sense, life is normal. Yet believe me, life in South Korea is not, in any way, normal!

Below I think you'll find that some of our observations are not all that strange or maybe not even unique to Korea. . .but, let me tell you, when you add 'em all up, you're living in a different world!

Enjoy!

100 Observations after 100 Days in Seoul

1. Koreans love Korean food.
2. Supposedly, "everyone in the world loves kimchi," though we've yet to find anyone outside of Korea that knows about it.
3. At least one side dish of varying types is served with every meal.
4. The most common side dishes are cold kimchi (pickled cabbage) and some variation of pickled radish.
5. There are dozens of varieties of kimchi and each family has it's own 'secret' recipe.
6. Kimchi can be prepared a number of ways. . .favorites include steamed, grilled and boiled.
7. It is possible to eat an entire meal of only side dishes known as hanjeongsik.
8. Eating is refueling only, nothing about it is satisfying.
9. Any 'hot' dish is served unbelievably hot, as in boiling!
10. Chili peppers are used liberally, making every dish, no matter what, extremely spicy.
11. Almost every single dish consists of or is accompanied by rice.
12. In Korean, "let's go eat," literally means "let's have rice."
13. It is not uncommon to eat a second dinner between three and five in the morning.
14. All Korean food is "good for health."
15. Many people enjoy dog soup, though it is technically illegal to distribute.
16. There are no bathtubs.
17. Sinks are connected to a free hanging shower head. Either one or the other is on, not both.
18. Bathrooms are all-inclusive one-room washrooms in which you can shit, shower and shave all at the same time.
19. Washing machines are also located in the bathroom so you can clean your clothes and body simultaneously.
20. Dryers do not exist, therefore clothes are perpetually stiff and ever so gradually stretched out.
21. Heating comes through pipes under the floors known as ondol.
22. Shoes are not, under any circumstances, to be worn in apartments, even your own.
23. Separate footwear should be used for the bathroom and living area.
24. 'Sheets' do not exist, people sleep between two, equally uncomfortable blankets.
25. Ovens are an extreme luxury, the majority of cooking is done on a two burner, portable gas stove.
26. Trash collection is public though the appropriate bags must be purchased at a convenience store.
27. Garbage is simply piled up outside in matching bags until it disappears. . .there is no apparent 'trash day.'
28. Work sponsored meetings (read, parties) will easily last until sunrise the next day.
29. But make sure you understand "the difference between your private and professional life."
30. Showing up to work hungover, but on time, is commendable. . .it is a sign of strength and commitment.
31. Showing up even a minute late causes utter chaos.
32. Each day, thousands of students are delivered to Junggye-dong via buses ranging in size from a small VW to a full on touring coach.
33. It is not unusual for students to study at academy until well after midnight during the week.
34. Elderly women, or ajumas, commonly wear ridiculous sun visors (see Halloween for reference).
35. T-Shirt sayings make absolutely no sense yet are not acknowledged by their owners.*
36. "Mickey Mouse" rivals "Michigan Football" for the most common shirt design.
37. Shoes are a huge status symbol.
38. Korean women wear heels an inappropriate amount, but not as much as the Japanese.
39. All Korean women scuttle. . .it is the quickest, safest, and goofiest way to travel in heels.
40. School uniforms are worn by all students except those in elementary school.
41. Hair length and style is as regulated as the uniforms.
42. Koreans will dress to the nines for whatever sport or activity they are participating in.
43. Mountain climbing, or 'hiking,' is a serious, serious undertaking for Koreans.
44. Absolutely no one runs or jogs for exercise.
45. Rollerbladers will do small circles around prescribed tracks with the form and dress of racing Olympic ice skaters.
46. Static workout machines are located in absolutely every park.
47. Mountain bikes are ridden along flat river trails but walked up inclines and over curbs.
48. No dog is bigger than a small cockier spaniel. . .unless your ex-military and have a retired German Shepard.
49. Dogs wear costumes, sweaters, and shoes. . .come on, Hobbes never even wore shoes.
50. Rabbits are sold on the streets of Itaewon.
51. As are fish and turtles.
52. Karaoke is not sung in public but rather in small rooms known as norebongs.
53. Movies, out on video, can also be viewed privately in small rooms called, DVD Bongs.
54. Computer games are played in giant smoke filled rooms, PC Bongs.
55. The newest Playstation games can be tried out at any local Playstation Bong.
56. Cellphones not only work half a dozen stories underground but can receive television signals and video chat as well.
57. According the majority of Koreans, "there is nothing to do in Korea but drink."
58. Soju, a clear liquor (around 20% abv) distilled from grains, usually rice, is Korea's libation of choice.
59. A 12 oz bottle of soju costs about 900 won or roughly 60 cents.
60. Drinking is always to be accompanied by eating, whether it be a full meal or snacking on dried squid.
61. For general 'sickness,' a bottle of soju taken with red pepper is the recommended antidote.
62. Soju companies use giveaway promotions similar to soda companies.
63. You can buy soju in 5 litre plastic jugs. . . for picnics, I guess?
64. Soju mixes with anything and it's terrible taste instantly disappears. . .this is dangerous!
65. There is never an inappropriate time to drink soju.
66. There are mid-mountain soju stops that help hikers refuel.
67. Koreans measure themselves by how many bottles of soju they can drink at a time.
68. Our boss once threatened to "drown us in Soju."
69. Soju hits you like a wild haymaker. . .first you're there. . .then you're not.
70. The haymaker is guaranteed to be ringing in your head the next morning, undoubtedly.
71. All stereotypes about Asian drivers are true.
72. Sidewalks are not just for people but cars and motorcycles as well.
73. It is not uncommon for people to be hit by cars and or motorcycles.
74. Traffic accidents appear to be resolved before the light changes again.
75. If an accident requires investigation, a police officer will outline the scene in spray paint and move the vehicles in order to free up traffic almost immediately.
76. No one ever seems to be too shaken up by an accident.
77. Red lights mean stop. . .if you want them to.
78. If you plan on running a red, simply lay on the horn and speed up.
79. Taxis are immune to any and all traffic laws. . .or so it seems.
80. Looking out the front window of a taxi while on the highway looks like a video game, no joke.
81. Subway signs are all in Chinese, English and Korean.
82. Station exits are numbered and distinguished by the landmarks that they lead to.
83. The subway closes shortly before midnight.
84. Shortly after midnight taxi fares jump markedly.
85. Bus information is almost entirely in Korean.
86. Buses always have the right of way.
87. If you take the subway within an hour of riding a bus you are only charged the fare for one.
88. All public transportation is extremely efficient.
89. Rush hour is between nine at night and one in the morning.
90. Koreans do not acknowledge the idea of tact or prudence.
91. Compliments do not exist, only a lack of complaints.
92. Your Boss is God.
93. Present giving is a way of life and expected by everyone.
94. Take and receive with two hands.
95. Anything that is exchanged is presented (ex. doughnuts are handed over at Dunkin' Doughnuts as if they were crown jewels).
96. Rock, Paper, Scissors solves literally any dispute.
97. Men who don't smoke are rare, women who smoke are whores.
98. Koreans do not sleep.
99. They work. And drink.
100. And last, but not least, if you're ever asked, remember, Dokdo is Korean.

*Best T-Shirt Sayings

The following shirts were all adorned by middle school girls. . .

1. "I Love My Hookers."

2. "I'm in my prime"

3."Black Girls Wear White Nickers,

White Girls Wear Black Nickers,

Loose Girls Wear No Nickers."



Thank you for keeping up to date, and, if you made it this far, we'd love to hear what you think!!

-Adam and Nate

Namhansanseong Provincial Park

Having warmed up towards the later half of last week, Nate and I decided that we should spend the weekend outdoors while we still had a chance. As the Korean national pastime seems to be hiking, we decided to find ourselves a good ole' nature walk. Taking a suggestion from LP's Seoul City Guide, we set off Saturday morning in search of Namhansanseong Provincial Park.

To get to our destination we hoped on Line 7 at Hagye, rode down towards the city center, changed to Line 5 at Gunja, where I normally get off for rehearsal, went three stops to the east before making a final transfer to the yet unexplored pink Line 8 at Cheonho. From here it was another twenty minutes or so before arriving at stop 823, Namhansanseong. . .sounded like the right place to us!

While we weren't sure exactly where to go, we chose the exit (which I've now forgotten) that appeared to point us in the direction of what seemed like it could be a big park. . .according to the sparse "neighborhood map" found in the station. Heading up the stairs out into the daylight we noticed a couple ahead of us that were apparently setting off for a hike. . .or so their outfits suggested!

We decided it would be a good idea to kind of latch on and follow them to wherever it might be that they were looking to climb. Luckily, they appeared to head off in the same direction that I had half heartedly believed would be correct. . .phew! For a moment we considered catching a bus to the park's entrance as LP suggested that "any bus" would take us there and that the walk would be a grueling half 'n hour. Well. . .whoever wrote that part was either extremely lucky in picking buses or knew a little bit more about the area then the passage lets on. Let me tell you, with a whirlwind of red, green and blue buses going every which way, we weren't ready to just hop on and see where we ended up. . .no thank you. . .we'll stick to tailgating others!

Having passed a number of tired worn out looking hikers going the other way following a row of mountain sport shops, we figured that we were in fact headed in the right direction and could pass our unknowing guides as they stopped to refuel. LP was right about one thing, it took us probably just about half an hour of walking, uphill, to get to what appeared to be a park entrance! Even so we got to see plenty of interesting things on our walk. . .take the norebong (karaoke room) pictured below for example! I asked Nate to try and out scare the monster. . .who do you think won?!


There was no real 'entrance' to this park but rather the road just sort of dead ended at a forest line where dozens of people, all fully dressed in 'hiking gear' congregated. Just past the front sign, which we could not read, was a rather large plaza with a rather small gathering, listening to a rather terrible saxophonist play over a truly terrible recording! Not quite sure what this was for or why people were listening but we quickly hustled onwards.

We did stop briefly, just before the paved path took a steep upward turn, to gawk at a group of hikers hosing themselves down with invisible water. . .huh!? Ahhh okay, the noise we heard was in fact pressurized air that they were using to, I dunno, dust themselves off!? I can't say I've ever done any real serious hiking but I certainly haven't heard of anyone taking an airbath afterwards. . .so Nate decided to give it a try! Too bad we hadn't climbed anything yet!
Not sure really what lay ahead or, to be honest, where we were, we set off in the only direction one reasonably should go. . .up!

As LP again accurately predicted, the path was much more civilized than many Korean hikes as it was paved and leveled out every few hundred meters. . . to give us foreigners a break I assume as Koreans take no notice of rest areas unless they have stalls with soju waiting. As the noisy one man band faded, the sound of the small stream running along the path began to pick up. While there were a number of places to stop and drink fresh water filtered through the mountain, neither of us took the chance. . .even though many others clearly enjoyed this au natural refreshment!

Before we got too far up the path we came across, what I would call, a reflexology walk. I have seen these before but never one this large and varied. There are diagrams at the entrance to the walk highlighting the soles of one's feet and clearly, though not to us, explaining the benefits of walking on different surfaces. Shoes are to be left in the little cubbies while pain and worries are to be left on the walk.

Zoom in on the picture to see the different surfaces that were placed every two metres or so. While the walk looks short in this picture, it in fact is a large loop and the enclosed stones within. . .I was lucky enough to get an almost untainted picture though the number of shoes in the cubbies indicated that there were certainly more patrons hidden throughout the trees. . .either that or some hikers on the hill with very, very sore feet!
A bit further up the path we came across a roped off area that looked like some sort of cemetery or at least memorial. Rocks, as you can see, were stacked high upon one another making these delicately balanced towers the appeared to be reaching up towards the sky! Not sure who made 'em, why they did it, or what it means. . .but they sure are beautiful!

Marching on we eventually came to another level area that turned out to be the entrance to a rather small temple. Painted in what appears to be traditional Korean Buddhist styling the temple really stood out against the grey and brown of the hibernating forest. Behind the little temple we walked up a few stairs to a small shrine where even small figurines were tucked away into another pile of awkwardly piled rocks. Who or what. . .I don't know. . .enjoy. . .I did.


After catching our breath we continued onwards, or more so, upwards. Eventually the path made a sharp hairpin turn, just at the foot of another 'park.' This left us two options. . .the first was to follow the path which appeared to lead to a ghastly tower of stairs. . .or the second option was to proceed in to the park that seemed to lead to what must be the world's largest outdoor gym (free weights, machines and every type of bar you could imagine, just out there for the public to use). Since neither of us were in the mood to pump some iron, though a number of Koreans were already hard at work, we decided to lace up and hit the stairs. This is just the start of 'em!

After what seemed like an eternity of climbing, so said my screaming calf muscles, we finally pulled up above the foliage to enjoy a view of the surrounding hills.

Only a few flights later did we arrive at what looked to be the final set of stairs! I quickly snapped a picture of this 'end of the line' stairway, then hustled up to the top to what I imagined would be a fantastic panorama view of Korea!

Instead, I got. . .a road!?!? A stupid road!?!? You're telling me that the past hour I just spent doubled over walking up some stupid path to tear up a flight of never ending stairs was simply to get to a road?! I could've taken a bus to this road! For probably no more than a nickel (if you've checked the won lately) I could've taken a private limo up to this road! Where was the sign that said, "Enjoy your hike up to the beautiful road! We hope you enjoy the view of asphalt at altitude!" Needless to say. . .I was surprised!
Well. . .we pondered what to do for a while and then Nate pointed out that the fortress wall, which we heard was around here, was in fact embedded in the hillside that you can see above. So, we headed down the road you see on your right, expecting to at least get close. . .this was not the case. The road ends right at the silly excuse for a gate that doesn't even cover all three lanes of traffic! Way to get underquoted on construction costs! Just kidding. . .still bitter from the unfulfilling climb!

Then, off to the left, on the protruding hill, we noticed a couple clamoring up through the forest. Well there were no signs pointing us in that direction, there were also no signs telling us not to. . .so off we went. The climb through the woods was much trickier than it appeared from flat ground, quickly growing to a very steep grade made more difficult by wet leaves underfoot. Nate made the astute observation that it was be bad to slip as one most likely would not stop sliding until reaching the bottom. . .I dug my toes in. . .hard!

About three quarter of the way up we finally caught up to our leaders who introduced themselves. Well. . .not really, the man, Yoon, introduced himself and kind of shrugged at the idea of there being someone with him, though she looked elated to be there. Yoon offered us a few pieces of chocolate, presumably because we looked like we needed the energy, not necessarily for good measure, and suggested that we follow him the rest of the way up. . .which we did!

Only a few hundred meters later we arrived at a clearing in front of a 10 foot high fortress wall! So this is what we read about! While last weekend we spend the evening walking along the northern wall of Seoul in Samcheong-dong, we had managed to now find our way to the southern side of the ancient wall that once guarded the city. . .exciting!

Well, this must be the end of the line I figured. . .can't go up anymore. . .time to turn around. Yoon had other ideas. He led us a ways along the wall, until we were out of sight of the few other hikers who had congregated at the top of this climb. Yoon then indicated that we were going to be climbing the wall. . . .hmm. Now, I've not climbed many a fortress wall in my short life but I've always been under the impression that is exactly what one is not supposed to do with them. . .but, when in Korea!


So, we followed Yoon and Wife up the side and over the top of this crumbling wall.

Nate really enjoying the chance to climb something!

All of a sudden we realized that we were inside the great fortress wall that once held out evil invaders from. . .well. . .I'm not quite sure. . .but you can read about it later in some of the pictures! Yoon insisted that we follow him which we did, as we walked along the wall curving left and right, up and down.

We eventually came to a peak where we could look back on the few kilometers of wall we had traversed and the almost-too-steep hill we climbed to get there!

A sense of accomplishment at 500m high!

Yoon eventually led us to a fortress, that I believe is called Sueojangdae, that once housed the King in exile. . .how fascinating! He first took us over the English sign that I noticed, pictured below, before leading us into the fortress grounds where he briefly showed us around and said goodbye. We thanked him profusely for guiding us, giving us treats and being a wonderful guest photographer! Then, Yoon and Wife went their own way while Nate and I were left to marvel at this ancient structure. . .which you get to enjoy the result of!

Namhansanseong Fortress

Or, Sueojangdae?

Nate with our trusty guides!

Traditional paint job on the fortress.It wasn't exactly crowded up here at the top of the mountain!

Wildlife in the hills

Fall Colors

After a half hour or more of running our camera batteries just about dry, Nate and I headed down from the temple to the winding pathway that ran along the fortress wall. We decided that it wasn't quite time to turn back yet and headed off the opposite way from which we came. We soon came to a lookout point that LP suggests might be called Seomun. Deciding that having come this far the short climb to the top was well worth it, we headed upwards.

As we approached the lookout tower we noticed a couple waving from the top of it. Who could these nut jobs be?! Usually everyone in Korea is so reserved and introspective. . .why so showy?! Oh wait a minute, I know that guy, yes, it's Yoon! We had managed to against stumble upon our fearless guide who instantly re-adopted us as poor lost souls in need of a cultural awakening! A few photo-ops later, check out how far beyond where we were the wall continues to run, we were heading back down the look out tower, again following Yoon to wherever me might lead.

The view from the top. . .of the lookout.

Well it turns out Yoon had put in a solid day of hiking and was in dire need of some refreshment. He asked us if either of us had ever had makoli, to which, after double checking with eachother, we responded 'no.' This both surprised and excited Yoon who declared that we then must follow him to sample Korea's famous, as all Korean food is to Koreans, rice wine. He asked us if we liked rice wine to which we could only remind him that we had not yet had it so we couldn't honestly say. . .but would give it a try if it meant so much to him.

Following Yoon through a small doorway in the side of the wall, we came out in to a rather open clearning in which two small plastic tables were set up with a small spread of vegetables on each. Yoon explained to us that makoli is always taken with vegetables to which we readily agreed. . .any snack sounded good at this point as all I had consumed since breakfast were the three little chocolates Yoon had originally given me and a gatorade that I purchased from a little ole' lady high up on the hillside (after of course complaining for an hour about how the only thing in the world that I wanted was a gatorade. . . interesting).

We marched up to the small folding tables and Yoon barked out orders to the woman in an apron who apparently attended to the spread. She whipped out three styrofoam cereal bowls which she then filled with a white milky liquid poured from a large brass (I dunno. . .all shiny metal looks the same to me) kettle. Yoon held up his bowl and prompted us to do the same, toasting we tilted our bowls back, took a big gulp and let out a satisfied "Aaaaaahhhhgghghhh," just as Yoon demonsrated. While I was super hesitant about a white milky wine at first, the flavor was actually somewhat pleasant. . .thought masked to some degree by the fact that we were drinking out of disposable bowls. . .this I still do not understand!

Yoon then prompted us to make use of the vegetable spread laid out in front of us. The process went as follows. Pick up a raw piece of cabbage and hold in one hand, most likely your non dominant one. Then, with your good hand, or, a great deal of difficulty, grab a small dried fish from the tub which you dip into a red bean paste and slap on to the cabbage. Not too much bean stuff though or you'll be laughed at. . . .trust me! You then rab a piece of what looks like a green onion stalk but tastes like garlic and dip it into a chili sauce. . .this lands on the cabbage as well. From here you use a small green toothpick to skewer both a clove of garlic and a piece of white onion which too end up on the cabbage.

From here you roll the cabbage wrap. . .toast with your hiking buddies, take an enormous gulp of makoli, let out a roaring "Aaaahhhhhhgggghh," and pop the whole veggie roll (with little fish's head sitll on) in to your mouth. The next five minutes of course are spent chewing whatever it is you've got jammed in your speaker box but who cares when you've got a good swig of warm rice wine dripping down your throat. . . .Honestly, the whole experience is a lot more enjoyable then it may sound or then I may have believed at the time! We repeated this whole process a few more times untill all the makoli was gone. . but don't you dare forget to get every last piece of rice out of your bowl. . .wouldn't want to waste now would we!

While the flavor and experience of drinking rice wine on top of a mountain with a random Korean is an experience you will have to have for yourself to truly understand, one thing I still don't get is Wife's role. During this whole ordeal she just kinda stood by smiling, not partaking in any of it. I couldn't quite tell if she just didn't enjoy rice wine or if it would have been inappropriate for her to engage in this inter-man exchange. . . it wasn't ever clear, but anyways, she just kind of stood off to the side smiling and munching on raw cabbage. Perhaps she was a rabbit. . .come to think of it, I don't think she made a sound except while chewing on cabbage. . .but she always did have a big nice smile! Must be a great neighborhood mom, always happy, never nosy!

After finishing our snack, Yoon of course insisted on paying for our treat while I egged him on suggesting that we could cover ourselves. . .this was to no avail as it would be wholly embarassing for a Korean to let their junior, more so an inexperience foreigner, treat themselves to anything.

Indicating that we were about to head back for the day, Yoon again suggested that we follow him. He and Bunny led us down the hill on the opposite side of the wall from which we hiked up. We eventually made it to a paved path that led towards an ever growing, but never large civilization. Set back in the heart of these woods, this 'neighborhood,' if you will, stood in start contrast to the grey urban scene we had come up out of the subway in. In fact, the only thing that either Nate or I could think of to compare it to was a small ski town out west!

The architecture was all very natural and reminiscint of log cabins, despite being obviously Asian. There were no highrises to speak of and the only traffic was an occasional mud cacked car passing by. . .definitely not something you find inside Seoul! The air was thick with the smell of dried leaves and wood burning stoves while the the lazy dogs wandering up and down the streets just completed the whole scene.

Admiring the 'mountain style' architecture.

Town Square (or circle to be precise)!

Our hillside descent eventually leveled out at a large circular intersection that Yoon described, or so I believe he did, as the center of town. From here he pointed us to the corner on which the Number 9 bus would come, and in fact was just departing from, to take us back into the 'city.' We again thanked the couple profusely for their kind guidance and gracious snack! They too seemed pleased with the afternoon and surprisingly, took off back the way we had just come. Only then did we realize that they had literally just come all they way down the mountain to show us where to go and were now headed back up to enjoy the rest of their evening. . . sometimes people here are just too nice!

So after a long day of hiking through the mountain town of Namhansanseong along the old southern fortress wall of Seoul. . .we decided to call it a day! We briefly wandered through 'town' though we covered the whole thing in our fifteen minute excursion. . .how true of a small town it was! We caught the next Number 9 to roll through and winding down the steep road back towards the subway we realized just how far from Seoul we really were. Sure, we were still within the metro system and to be honest, I'm not even sure we left Seoul city limits. . .but up on the mountain, winding through the last of fall's colors, I came to realize why is was that so many Seoulites go hiking each weekend! Sometimes you really do just need to get away. . .and from my experience. . .I'd certainly recommend Namhansanseong. . .I'm thankful we found it!

Happy Thanksgiving!

A map of Namhansamseong. . .your guess as to where we started, went or finished is as good as mine. . .feel free to make it up. . . we probably went there anways!