Lunar New Year Pt. I - Dinner with the Boss

Well Lunar Near Year has come and gone so apparently I'm a year older here in Korea. With my new age being 24 I feel like I rather missed out on that whole 23 thing. . .odd how they calculate age here, silly me still believing I was 22 and all!

We kicked off our New Year holiday Sunday evening at Anna's home with a home cooked meal. While we initially thought that the invitation was extended just to us, which would have been only slightly awkward, we were pleased to learn that others would be joining as well.

Terry Teacher, who recently moved up from Daechi and now lives in my building, met Nate and I downstairs a little after six to head towards Anna's place only a few minutes down the road. Luckily we were able to find it without a problem and got inside before we froze to death.

It was such a wonderfully refreshing experience to spend a couple hours in a real 'home,' decorated, comfortable and alive with the freshness of A-Young's husband's indoor botany experiments!

For dinner we were served a plate of fried cutlet, rice and curry at the small dinning/main room table. While I am admittedly not the biggest fan of curry, especially its smell, I managed to muscle through it anyways, enjoying the homecooked (though clearly from a packet) flavor. As side dishes we were given the options of kimchi (homemade of course), chapchae (which is a delicious oriental noodle salad), bulgogi (sweetend beef chunks), and a green salad with strawberry dressing.

By the time Terry, Nate, and I had finished eating, Julie (Princess) and Moon Young had arrived with husbands in tow. Also accompanying Moon Young was her two year old daughter, Harem. An interesting name for a young girl. . .

While the little one immediately ran off to the playroom with Anna's daughter Rachel, I eventually caught up with the kids and got in on some pretty fun finger painting. The little thing didn't stop running in circles until well past three in the morning which reminded me so much of little cousin Christina when she was young.

As I commented on how cute her daughter was, Moon Young humbly replied in good Korean fashion, "I know, just like her mother." Later we were informed however that it is unfortunate for Harem to look so 'American beautiful' (as she has large eyes). Not sure what that means but, it sounds like backhanded racism? Which is confusing in that all I've come to learn in Korea is that 'western style' faces are more beautiful. . . but for children? I guess not!?

While showing us pictures of her travels, Anna also unabashedly commented on her happy single days. Pointing to picture of her with her husband informing us that she was no longer happy. Ummm, sorry to hear that, not sure how to respond, he seems like a pretty good guy though!

Two small tables, with only a foot or so of floor clearance, were set up on the floor in front of the tv for Moon Young, Julie and Co. to dine at. Once everybody had finished eating we were invited to join them on the floor for snacks and drinks. What started out as a quaint little cocktail party escalated quickly, as one would imagine a Korean get together would.

To be honest, I was at first thinking that we might be let go early as we had informed our hosts that we had a 5:40am bus to catch the next morning to head out to Phoenix Park for our 'ski/snowboard trip.' This did not turn out to be the case.

After about half a glass of wine Anna checked the bottle to see how much we were drinking as she noted that I had begun to turn red. While I wanted to, I refrained from informing her that was in fact not only incredibly awkward (sitting at her dining table without food while the other guests ate on the floor) but I was also sweltering hot in a sweater! Though the room's temperature issue was mentioned a number of times throughout the night, I don't recall anything ever being done to adjust it. Even after the pointing where other Korean guests were commenting on it and Nate had to remove an outer layer to stay sane! Oh well!

Once plopped on the floor we didn't move again until everyone had literally cleaned the house out of drinks, including the bottle of scotch we had picked up for Anna at Christmas! Though we at first fretted over the quality of wine we brought over as a gift, it turned out not to be a problem as unempty glasses were refilled with any ole' bottle! If you mixing then you can't be too picky I guess!

In between the numerous bottles of wine scattered across the table I picked my way through a wide array of snacks. I tried everything but the large quiche like pastry that was devoured by the women before I could get a bite. I did however dig in deep to the beef jerky pieces, boiled oysters (which I was told that I would not like, as all Koreans seem to assume that they have our foreign diets tagged down, especially the part about, 'oh no, too spicy for you'), cheese wedges (which had literally liquefied because the room was so hot), and of course, a chocolate ice cream cake that Nate and I had helped Terry pick out.

My only regret? That I didn't eat the last piece of the cake that simply sat on the table and melted as the night went on. I figured I'd leave it for someone else as I had already consumed more than a couple enormous chunks of ice cream cake!

Eventually, Nate and Mr. Lee (no, not that Mr. Lee, Anna's husband Mr. Lee, they just don't take eachother's names here as people are accustomed to in the west) headed out in to the cold night to pick up round two of drinks from a nearby GS. While the boys took off I got in some time on the piano with the little ones, who managed to show me a thing or two as it's been quite some times since I've banged on the keys!

As we made our way through round two and the snacks started to dwindle, everybody began helping in the clean up. In no time the place had returned to the quite, Aunt Terry-like little living room that we were so impressed by upon arrival. Oh, as for the houses lay out, the floor area of the main room isn't much more than mind and is somewhat similar in shape. The 'kitchen' is recessed a bit which gives it a little more room but other than that, not enormous. However, unlike Doota, Anna's place actually has separate living and sleeping quarters. In the largest room, Rachel, her daughter, sleeps with Grandma who comes in during the weekdays. The bathroom is small but nice as the shower is separated from the sink and other fixtures. Just inside the front door Anna and her husband share a bed on the floor that takes up so much of the room that the door does not even open all the way. . . .and that's about it! Though small, it really is an extremely cozy and homey place that I would trade for in a heartbeat over my Doota pad!

When the floors were shined and dishes cleared, we all bundled up to head out in the cold. I found it odd that Anna had accompanied us as her husband had long ago passed out face first in his daughter's bed. I mentioned it to Nate who made it apparent that we weren't being accompanied home but rather to a norebong. . .oh, seriously!?

So, at around two in the morning, with a ten and two year old in tow, we dinner guests, led by Anna, made our way towards the Disney Princess themed norebong just down the block from Doota. After some horrendously sung Beatles, a Tupac song that never gets old, and a Four Non-Blondes finale, we were eventually released from our hostess' grasp and allowed to go home. Though the kids had started to complain slightly by this point, mostly at the loud noises, they showed no real signs of tiring. I guess the whole nightlife thing is embraced at a very, very young age here!

We turned in to Dootavill a little after 3:30am, just enough time to finish packing for the ski trip, settle down for an hour nap, wake up again at 5:00am, call to wake Nate up, grab some water and chips from the GS, catch a cab to Nowon Station and run, yes, literally run after the Good Bus shuttle to Phoenix Park!

Slumin' It

Now that Winter Intensive has begun I actually have quite a bit of free time on my hands. Not only that but I work during the mornings now so that the time I do have off isn't clouded over by the concession that I'll eventually have to go to work!

Spending the first part of the week with my family, running from Junggye to Gangnam and back, I didn't really get a chance to appreciate my new schedule. Come Thursday however I was out of work by four o'clock and had nothing to do until 11:00 the following morning! While it was too late to try a trek up the side of Bulamsan, which I've yet to do, I felt like the end of a beautiful day needed to be enjoyed outside. Thus, Nate and I went off on a 'nature walk,' that we had explored a week or so before.

Nature Walking

Just down the street, or to be more exact, up a hill and down the other side, there lies a small park that leads up a rather large hill from which you can look down on our little corner of commerce. The last time we did this walk we went all the way up and over the hill. Coming out on the backside we were shocked to find what looked like a sort of shanty town just kind of throw together and discarded some many years ago.


We stood for a while on the hillside just wondering how exactly such a slummy place could exist here in Junggye while everything else about it seems to scream Korean middle class. Perhaps that's why it's tucked away behind a hill, safe from the unadventurous Foreign Teachers eyes as well as those of 'respectable' Koreans. Who knows, I probably never will.

Headed down the backside

Anyways, it was quite a site to see what Nate could only describe as 'the real Asia.' This is exactly what it looked like. Set against the foothills of Bulansam, this small 'town' looked like it could have just as easily existed thousands of years ago in the same place, without the rusted motorbikes of course.

Bulamsan, the secret village, and highrises in the background

As we slowly walked down the embankment that sharply separated this settlement from the newly paved highway, we stopped at the sight of a young girl on a roof. Dressed in a tattered purple jacket, a girl of no more than 11 crouched over a stick that she was carefully smoothing down while her small, and dirty, canine companion looked on. The two of us stood, fascinated at this sight of this simple activity, knowing full well that just over the hill tens of thousands of children her age were shelling out tens of thousands of won to learn a language that she might have never heard of.

Unable to pull away we watched her go about her whittling until the stick was smooth enough to give to her little friend. By that time however the pup had lost all interest in playing with the stick and instead had turned his attention towards us staring at him. We finally caught the girl's eye and tried to cheerfully wave hello. She abashedly turned away without showing a great deal of interest, but, knowing we were still watching, continued to try and entice her dog to play with her carefully cured stick.

As the sun began to set we realized that we had only twenty minutes to get back home and shower before our final DYB band practice. Hurriedly making our way back towards Eunang Sa-gori neither of us could get over the fact the we hadn't thought to bring a camera and thus were left with only a faded memory of this little girl, who, inexplicably, offered a sort of insight and vision into Korea that I think both of us might have been looking for but had, until then, left undiscovered.

Anyways, a week or so later we found ourselves back on this 'nature walk' headed up and over the backside of the hill. Entering from a different trail head this time we stumbled upon a cement bunker dug out of the hillside. While we have no idea how old this thing is, why it's there or who would have used it, it sure was cool to play around! Though the entrance was once guarded by barbed wire, it had long ago been brushed aside, presumably by someone taking shelter in it. . .and no, certainly not by teenagers looking to party in the woods, I'll guarantee you that!

Enter the Bunker. . .

Bunker Hill?

After a war-enactment photo shoot of warding off North Koreans with sticks, we headed back towards the trail.

Gunnin' for the enemies!

Hide 'n Seek: Korean Version

At the top, we stopped at the summit work out station to try out the different twisty machines and I gave the 'inverter' a shot. Not quite sure what this thing does but you loop your feet into some bars on the bottom of it then lean back to flip your head to the ground and feet towards the sky. We've seen people hang like this indefinitely while others use the smooth axle to rotate back and forth from right side up to upside down. Me, I just liked flipping myself, yelling while I went, realizing I was causing a ruckus, and taking off down the backside!

Rooftop with a view

Armed with cameras this time we began the short decent down the far side of the hill towards our secret town. While I managed to get a few shots of the area and some rooftops, these pictures really don't do justice to the stark contrast of this settlement's existence in the middle of what is otherwise a highrise concrete jungle.

Nestled in the foothills of Bulamsan

To our dismay, the only thing we found on the rooftops were pots of fermenting kimchi. Hardly as exciting as our previous visit. While we didn't get a glimpse of this mystery child, I would be willing to bet that my wandering feet take me back over the hill a few more times while I'm here. Whether I'll be armed with a camera is yet to be known, but hey, if I see her again, I'll tell her you said hello.

Rooftop Kimchi Pots

If you're ever in the area, try not to stick to the main roads, it all grows so dull after a while. Actually if you're ever anywhere, try not to stick to the main roads. If that's all you do then all you'll ever see are things that everyone else already has. . .and you know that their pictures are probably better than yours. . .so just steal 'em off flickr and tell people that's where you went. . .that's what I do! (Just kidding, by the way. . .all pictures on this site are the product of the my or Nathan Kochanski's eye and thus are open to the public for use. . .unless you're willing to compensate me, in which case I'll humbly accept.)

Never mind that mumbo jumbo, what I meant to say was, whenever you're out and about, don't forget to stop and smell the slums, sometimes that's all you need to realize that life isn't always sweeter on the other side of the hill!

Absurd Konglish

Today one of Nate's students managed to snatch the top dog award for most absurd Konglish t-shirt saying. In bold yellow print on a dark blue sweater, Tracey, a 13 year old female student wore the below statement without the slightest clue as to it's meaning. . .

BEAT ME
BITE ME
WHIP ME
F*CK ME
LOVE ME

Mind you, this sweatshirt, other than what it read, looked nothing out of the ordinary; so much so that Nate didn't even notice what it said until nearly the end of class when he looked up stunned in the middle of reading answers. . .

Welcome to Korea!

100th Day!

We all measure time passed in our own way; by celebrating another completed year of life on our birthdays, acknowledging the changing seasons, counting down to special dates or preparing for long awaited anniversaries. Here in Korea, I count completed days!

Well, not really, on a given day I'd be able to give you a ballpark figure of how long I've been here but certainly do not wake up and make a new notch on the wall every morning. I do however do a few things to help not only pass the time but make the passing time seem relevant.

Once upon a time, someone, I believe it was cousin Stef, told me that I, like her, am a 'counter.' This means that we selectively, yet often inexplicably, count things. . .whether this is done intentional or subconsciously, I don't know, but, it happens! Here in Korea I find myself counting how long I've been, but in a number of different ways.

I know for example that I've paid utilities twice, played in eleven soccer games, collected three paychecks, and, at the time of this writing, am 28% done with my contract. How do I figure that last number you ask? Easy! It's perhaps my favorite to calculate as it takes little to no thought and offers me something to look forward to at the end of each week.

You see, I agreed to a year long contract here in Seoul: 52 weeks. Fortunately, however, I am allowed two weeks of vacation. That brings the total number of weeks that I have to work down to an even 50. Divide that into a hundred and you realize that each completed work week brings me two percent closer to the end of my obligation at DYB! Well it's not as neurotic as actually counting days, it still allows me the chance to have some sense of progress, accompanied by a little celebration every now and then!

The reason I'm telling you this, well, I'm not too sure actually. All I really meant to say is that today, the 29th of November, marks my 100th full day of living in Seoul! How exciting, right!? And, in order to celebrate this festive occasion, Nate and I spent the past week compiling a list of 100 observations about life here in the 'Land of the Morning Calm.'

While the original list was divided into categories, I decided to erase the headings in order to avoid a restrictive framework that would allow critics to say things such as "I can't believe you didn't mention _____ under the _____ category," or "Is _____ really an issue that relates to ______?" Not that any of you would do that, but, there are a heck of a lot of grumpy foreigners here who seem to have little to do other than critique others via this world wide interweb. . . not me of course! Okay. . .I'm lying. . .I took away the titles because I couldn't figure out how to keep the numbering continuous with occasional interruptions for sections headings. . .you caught me, congratulations!

The list below reflects our own, personal observations and cannot, nor should not be taken as a comprehensive picture of life in Seoul. Neither however should it be ignored or overlooked. . .this is perhaps the most important reading you will do this week, for next time someone asks you about pickled cabbage or soju etiquette, you will feel at ease knowing that you are well versed on such subjects.

Interesting enough, one of the speaking tests that Nate and I had to correct this past week was from the point of view of a foreigner who had been living in Seoul for almost two years. While I do not remember the exact wording (which, ironically, is what I was checking for), the character made the observation that Seoul is a very different place from his home. . .not that it is all together backwards but simply that there are a lot of small differences, and these, are what he notices most!

This short dialogue resonated deeply with me. My life in Korea, thus far, is so wildly different from life in the states yet so markedly similar at the same time. I live in an apartment with running water and electricity, I have a job, a boss, and coworkers, I can watch tv when I please, I go to restaurants, bars, museums and movies, I have friends (sort of), I use my cellphone almost everyday (and I actually pay the bill myself), and, I can keep in touch with those at home via the Google and highspeed interweb. In this sense, life is normal. Yet believe me, life in South Korea is not, in any way, normal!

Below I think you'll find that some of our observations are not all that strange or maybe not even unique to Korea. . .but, let me tell you, when you add 'em all up, you're living in a different world!

Enjoy!

100 Observations after 100 Days in Seoul

1. Koreans love Korean food.
2. Supposedly, "everyone in the world loves kimchi," though we've yet to find anyone outside of Korea that knows about it.
3. At least one side dish of varying types is served with every meal.
4. The most common side dishes are cold kimchi (pickled cabbage) and some variation of pickled radish.
5. There are dozens of varieties of kimchi and each family has it's own 'secret' recipe.
6. Kimchi can be prepared a number of ways. . .favorites include steamed, grilled and boiled.
7. It is possible to eat an entire meal of only side dishes known as hanjeongsik.
8. Eating is refueling only, nothing about it is satisfying.
9. Any 'hot' dish is served unbelievably hot, as in boiling!
10. Chili peppers are used liberally, making every dish, no matter what, extremely spicy.
11. Almost every single dish consists of or is accompanied by rice.
12. In Korean, "let's go eat," literally means "let's have rice."
13. It is not uncommon to eat a second dinner between three and five in the morning.
14. All Korean food is "good for health."
15. Many people enjoy dog soup, though it is technically illegal to distribute.
16. There are no bathtubs.
17. Sinks are connected to a free hanging shower head. Either one or the other is on, not both.
18. Bathrooms are all-inclusive one-room washrooms in which you can shit, shower and shave all at the same time.
19. Washing machines are also located in the bathroom so you can clean your clothes and body simultaneously.
20. Dryers do not exist, therefore clothes are perpetually stiff and ever so gradually stretched out.
21. Heating comes through pipes under the floors known as ondol.
22. Shoes are not, under any circumstances, to be worn in apartments, even your own.
23. Separate footwear should be used for the bathroom and living area.
24. 'Sheets' do not exist, people sleep between two, equally uncomfortable blankets.
25. Ovens are an extreme luxury, the majority of cooking is done on a two burner, portable gas stove.
26. Trash collection is public though the appropriate bags must be purchased at a convenience store.
27. Garbage is simply piled up outside in matching bags until it disappears. . .there is no apparent 'trash day.'
28. Work sponsored meetings (read, parties) will easily last until sunrise the next day.
29. But make sure you understand "the difference between your private and professional life."
30. Showing up to work hungover, but on time, is commendable. . .it is a sign of strength and commitment.
31. Showing up even a minute late causes utter chaos.
32. Each day, thousands of students are delivered to Junggye-dong via buses ranging in size from a small VW to a full on touring coach.
33. It is not unusual for students to study at academy until well after midnight during the week.
34. Elderly women, or ajumas, commonly wear ridiculous sun visors (see Halloween for reference).
35. T-Shirt sayings make absolutely no sense yet are not acknowledged by their owners.*
36. "Mickey Mouse" rivals "Michigan Football" for the most common shirt design.
37. Shoes are a huge status symbol.
38. Korean women wear heels an inappropriate amount, but not as much as the Japanese.
39. All Korean women scuttle. . .it is the quickest, safest, and goofiest way to travel in heels.
40. School uniforms are worn by all students except those in elementary school.
41. Hair length and style is as regulated as the uniforms.
42. Koreans will dress to the nines for whatever sport or activity they are participating in.
43. Mountain climbing, or 'hiking,' is a serious, serious undertaking for Koreans.
44. Absolutely no one runs or jogs for exercise.
45. Rollerbladers will do small circles around prescribed tracks with the form and dress of racing Olympic ice skaters.
46. Static workout machines are located in absolutely every park.
47. Mountain bikes are ridden along flat river trails but walked up inclines and over curbs.
48. No dog is bigger than a small cockier spaniel. . .unless your ex-military and have a retired German Shepard.
49. Dogs wear costumes, sweaters, and shoes. . .come on, Hobbes never even wore shoes.
50. Rabbits are sold on the streets of Itaewon.
51. As are fish and turtles.
52. Karaoke is not sung in public but rather in small rooms known as norebongs.
53. Movies, out on video, can also be viewed privately in small rooms called, DVD Bongs.
54. Computer games are played in giant smoke filled rooms, PC Bongs.
55. The newest Playstation games can be tried out at any local Playstation Bong.
56. Cellphones not only work half a dozen stories underground but can receive television signals and video chat as well.
57. According the majority of Koreans, "there is nothing to do in Korea but drink."
58. Soju, a clear liquor (around 20% abv) distilled from grains, usually rice, is Korea's libation of choice.
59. A 12 oz bottle of soju costs about 900 won or roughly 60 cents.
60. Drinking is always to be accompanied by eating, whether it be a full meal or snacking on dried squid.
61. For general 'sickness,' a bottle of soju taken with red pepper is the recommended antidote.
62. Soju companies use giveaway promotions similar to soda companies.
63. You can buy soju in 5 litre plastic jugs. . . for picnics, I guess?
64. Soju mixes with anything and it's terrible taste instantly disappears. . .this is dangerous!
65. There is never an inappropriate time to drink soju.
66. There are mid-mountain soju stops that help hikers refuel.
67. Koreans measure themselves by how many bottles of soju they can drink at a time.
68. Our boss once threatened to "drown us in Soju."
69. Soju hits you like a wild haymaker. . .first you're there. . .then you're not.
70. The haymaker is guaranteed to be ringing in your head the next morning, undoubtedly.
71. All stereotypes about Asian drivers are true.
72. Sidewalks are not just for people but cars and motorcycles as well.
73. It is not uncommon for people to be hit by cars and or motorcycles.
74. Traffic accidents appear to be resolved before the light changes again.
75. If an accident requires investigation, a police officer will outline the scene in spray paint and move the vehicles in order to free up traffic almost immediately.
76. No one ever seems to be too shaken up by an accident.
77. Red lights mean stop. . .if you want them to.
78. If you plan on running a red, simply lay on the horn and speed up.
79. Taxis are immune to any and all traffic laws. . .or so it seems.
80. Looking out the front window of a taxi while on the highway looks like a video game, no joke.
81. Subway signs are all in Chinese, English and Korean.
82. Station exits are numbered and distinguished by the landmarks that they lead to.
83. The subway closes shortly before midnight.
84. Shortly after midnight taxi fares jump markedly.
85. Bus information is almost entirely in Korean.
86. Buses always have the right of way.
87. If you take the subway within an hour of riding a bus you are only charged the fare for one.
88. All public transportation is extremely efficient.
89. Rush hour is between nine at night and one in the morning.
90. Koreans do not acknowledge the idea of tact or prudence.
91. Compliments do not exist, only a lack of complaints.
92. Your Boss is God.
93. Present giving is a way of life and expected by everyone.
94. Take and receive with two hands.
95. Anything that is exchanged is presented (ex. doughnuts are handed over at Dunkin' Doughnuts as if they were crown jewels).
96. Rock, Paper, Scissors solves literally any dispute.
97. Men who don't smoke are rare, women who smoke are whores.
98. Koreans do not sleep.
99. They work. And drink.
100. And last, but not least, if you're ever asked, remember, Dokdo is Korean.

*Best T-Shirt Sayings

The following shirts were all adorned by middle school girls. . .

1. "I Love My Hookers."

2. "I'm in my prime"

3."Black Girls Wear White Nickers,

White Girls Wear Black Nickers,

Loose Girls Wear No Nickers."



Thank you for keeping up to date, and, if you made it this far, we'd love to hear what you think!!

-Adam and Nate