Gyeongbokgung Palace (with the Kochanskis)

With visitors in town for the first time since the spring thaw, Nate and I took off to show his parents around the Jogno area in downtown Seoul. Our 'tour' included a first for the two of us as we made a long overdue visit to Gyeongbokgung, Korea's largest palace from the Chosun Dynasty.

Welcome to Korea!

While Korea, and the greater Seoul area in particular, is littered with these ancient compounds, it took me a full seven months before finally visiting one. Upon arrival in Korea I put off a visit 'until the leaves turned.' Unfortunately, I missed that opportunity and then resorted to making the journey once snow had fallen. Having greatly underestimated the amount of snow in Seoul, that also proved to be a non-option. Finally, we settled on waiting for the spring blossom to enjoy the palaces in bloom. While the Kochanski's arrived just a few weeks before true spring, we did get to enjoy the grounds covered in the cherry blossoms mentioned previously. Perhaps I'll go back and visit some of the other palaces once they're filled in with green. . .but then again I might just find more reasons not to!

Many cherry blossoms around Gyeongbokgung were cut down by the Japanese. . .but a few remain!

While the drab pre-spring landscape left much to be desired aesthetically, the palace was amazing simply in scale. What is perhaps more remarkable is the fact that it has been destroyed, reconstructed, burned down, disfigured and restored time and time again, yet we are still able to walk these sacred grounds today.

The original palace was constructed in 1395 though the one that we see today began construction in 1868, only to be (according to the palace's guidebook) 'destroyed by fire...reconstructed...have buildings removed...severely desfigured...restored...buildings removed...restored again' with the final restoration being completed in 2007. The majority of the palace's debacles were not accidental but rather the result of Japanese invasions and occupation. It's no wonder that the country literally shuts down to watch these two Asian superpowers battle it out in modern warfare, on the baseball field.

After entering the palace's outer walls, visitors are steered towards the National Folk Museum of Korea. While I can imagine that nearly every Seoulite has been forced through this display on school field trips, I can't imagine that any of them enjoyed it much more than I did, even though it is their 'personal' history. While the displays are immaculate and well organized, the material is simply not intriguing and even less engaging. I'd take a science over folk museum any day! But that's just me.

At least the washroom's were interesting!

We wandered the grounds for no more than an hour after deciding that we had seen enough. While one could easily spend a good half day exploring every nook and cranny, the majority of the buildings are very similar looking and only a rare few are you actually allowed entrance to. Thus we sort of hurried through, grabbing a few pictures and heading out towards the more stimulating Samcheongdong.

The site of a tragic assasination of the Empress Myeongseong by Japanese forces, Hwangwonjeong.

Exploring the never ending corridors.

Searching for an exit we were drawn towards the palace's south gate by the sounds of drums and chanting. It turns out we happened on the first Giroyeon, or Royal Court Ritual, reenactment of the spring season! This large display of respect, known as 'The Elders Banquet,' is a ceremony consisting of dancing, feasting and ceremonial presentations to royalty. While we only caught the tail end of the ceremony, we did get a great idea of the colors, pageantry and customs that go into such a proceeding. For those interested, the reenactment takes place every Saturday at 2:00pm out front of Sujeongjeon Hall on the Gyeongbokgung grounds.

The Elders Banquet

We even got a chance to play dress-up!

Under a row of large pink budding trees we took a short rest, admiring the Gyeonghoeru Pavilion from afar. Here the Chosun King would take his guests, by boat, to enjoy lavish banquets and entertainment. The structure seen today was erected in 1867 as the original was burned down by the Japanese in 1592.

Gyeonghoeru Pavilion

On our way out of the grounds we stopped to observe a mass of students gathered around one of the palaces grand entrances. Turns out they were taking class photos which of course we in turn took photos of. Nate's younger brother Andrew even decided to join in for one, which of course set a ripple of giggles spreading outwards like a wave!

Picture Day!

Though not quite as intimidating as the DMZ guards, I'm pretty sure these guys could still do a bit of damage, especially with that overblown axe!

I'll take my chances with this one!

From Gyeongbokgung we led Nate's family up towards the picturesque Samcheongdong where a fashion conscious wanderer might never tire of window shopping the countless trendy boutiques. Exhausted from wandering all day we hurried past these to refuel with waffles, ice cream and coffee at Beans Bins, a local favorite!

While in the area, we made an obligatory stop by the president's house, Cheong Wa Dae, or the Blue House as it's known in Konglish. Though we didn't catch a glimpse of Lee Myung Bak, we did avoid getting yelled at by the guards as we were last time for wandering on to the grass.

A picture in picture of Mr. Kochanski in front of The Blue House

Staying on the safe side of the fence!

From Jongno we decided to take a brief tour of the campus at Yonsei University as was recommended by a local expat magazine, Seoul: Travel and Culture. Though darkness began to creep in around us as we hiked up the hill towards the famous statue of it's founder, H.G. Underwood, which is recognized as the oldest standing statue in Seoul having been erected in 1928. I guess the Japanese couldn't figure out how to burn down bronze.

With a Mexican dinner at Dos Tacos in Hongdae we topped off a well rounded day with just the right amount of spice. All and all we had a great time and thoroughly enjoyed playing the role of 'tour guides' for the day.' Hey, we even found ourselves at a red carpet event later that evening, but that's a-whole-nother story! Thanks for visiting!

Andrew's 15 minutes, or seconds, in the spotlight!