Saturday, November 29, 2008

100th Day!

We all measure time passed in our own way; by celebrating another completed year of life on our birthdays, acknowledging the changing seasons, counting down to special dates or preparing for long awaited anniversaries. Here in Korea, I count completed days!

Well, not really, on a given day I'd be able to give you a ballpark figure of how long I've been here but certainly do not wake up and make a new notch on the wall every morning. I do however do a few things to help not only pass the time but make the passing time seem relevant.

Once upon a time, someone, I believe it was cousin Stef, told me that I, like her, am a 'counter.' This means that we selectively, yet often inexplicably, count things. . .whether this is done intentional or subconsciously, I don't know, but, it happens! Here in Korea I find myself counting how long I've been, but in a number of different ways.

I know for example that I've paid utilities twice, played in eleven soccer games, collected three paychecks, and, at the time of this writing, am 28% done with my contract. How do I figure that last number you ask? Easy! It's perhaps my favorite to calculate as it takes little to no thought and offers me something to look forward to at the end of each week.

You see, I agreed to a year long contract here in Seoul: 52 weeks. Fortunately, however, I am allowed two weeks of vacation. That brings the total number of weeks that I have to work down to an even 50. Divide that into a hundred and you realize that each completed work week brings me two percent closer to the end of my obligation at DYB! Well it's not as neurotic as actually counting days, it still allows me the chance to have some sense of progress, accompanied by a little celebration every now and then!

The reason I'm telling you this, well, I'm not too sure actually. All I really meant to say is that today, the 29th of November, marks my 100th full day of living in Seoul! How exciting, right!? And, in order to celebrate this festive occasion, Nate and I spent the past week compiling a list of 100 observations about life here in the 'Land of the Morning Calm.'

While the original list was divided into categories, I decided to erase the headings in order to avoid a restrictive framework that would allow critics to say things such as "I can't believe you didn't mention _____ under the _____ category," or "Is _____ really an issue that relates to ______?" Not that any of you would do that, but, there are a heck of a lot of grumpy foreigners here who seem to have little to do other than critique others via this world wide interweb. . . not me of course! Okay. . .I'm lying. . .I took away the titles because I couldn't figure out how to keep the numbering continuous with occasional interruptions for sections headings. . .you caught me, congratulations!

The list below reflects our own, personal observations and cannot, nor should not be taken as a comprehensive picture of life in Seoul. Neither however should it be ignored or overlooked. . .this is perhaps the most important reading you will do this week, for next time someone asks you about pickled cabbage or soju etiquette, you will feel at ease knowing that you are well versed on such subjects.

Interesting enough, one of the speaking tests that Nate and I had to correct this past week was from the point of view of a foreigner who had been living in Seoul for almost two years. While I do not remember the exact wording (which, ironically, is what I was checking for), the character made the observation that Seoul is a very different place from his home. . .not that it is all together backwards but simply that there are a lot of small differences, and these, are what he notices most!

This short dialogue resonated deeply with me. My life in Korea, thus far, is so wildly different from life in the states yet so markedly similar at the same time. I live in an apartment with running water and electricity, I have a job, a boss, and coworkers, I can watch tv when I please, I go to restaurants, bars, museums and movies, I have friends (sort of), I use my cellphone almost everyday (and I actually pay the bill myself), and, I can keep in touch with those at home via the Google and highspeed interweb. In this sense, life is normal. Yet believe me, life in South Korea is not, in any way, normal!

Below I think you'll find that some of our observations are not all that strange or maybe not even unique to Korea. . .but, let me tell you, when you add 'em all up, you're living in a different world!

Enjoy!

100 Observations after 100 Days in Seoul
  1. Koreans love Korean food.
  2. Supposedly, "everyone in the world loves kimchi," though we've yet to find anyone outside of Korea that knows about it.
  3. At least one side dish of varying types is served with every meal.
  4. The most common side dishes are cold kimchi (pickled cabbage) and some variation of pickled radish.
  5. There are dozens of varieties of kimchi and each family has it's own 'secret' recipe.
  6. Kimchi can be prepared a number of ways. . .favorites include steamed, grilled and boiled.
  7. It is possible to eat an entire meal of only side dishes known as hanjeongsik.
  8. Eating is refueling only, nothing about it is satisfying.
  9. Any 'hot' dish is served unbelievably hot, as in boiling!
  10. Chili peppers are used liberally, making every dish, no matter what, extremely spicy.
  11. Almost every single dish consists of or is accompanied by rice.
  12. In Korean, "let's go eat," literally means "let's have rice."
  13. It is not uncommon to eat a second dinner between three and five in the morning.
  14. All Korean food is "good for health."
  15. Many people enjoy dog soup, though it is technically illegal to distribute.
  16. There are no bathtubs.
  17. Sinks are connected to a free hanging shower head. Either one or the other is on, not both.
  18. Bathrooms are all-inclusive one-room washrooms in which you can shit, shower and shave all at the same time.
  19. Washing machines are also located in the bathroom so you can clean your clothes and body simultaneously.
  20. Dryers do not exist, therefore clothes are perpetually stiff and ever so gradually stretched out.
  21. Heating comes through pipes under the floors known as ondol.
  22. Shoes are not, under any circumstances, to be worn in apartments, even your own.
  23. Separate footwear should be used for the bathroom and living area.
  24. 'Sheets' do not exist, people sleep between two, equally uncomfortable blankets.
  25. Ovens are an extreme luxury, the majority of cooking is done on a two burner, portable gas stove.
  26. Trash collection is public though the appropriate bags must be purchased at a convenience store.
  27. Garbage is simply piled up outside in matching bags until it disappears. . .there is no apparent 'trash day.'
  28. Work sponsored meetings (read, parties) will easily last until sunrise the next day.
  29. But make sure you understand "the difference between your private and professional life."
  30. Showing up to work hungover, but on time, is commendable. . .it is a sign of strength and commitment.
  31. Showing up even a minute late causes utter chaos.
  32. Each day, thousands of students are delivered to Junggye-dong via buses ranging in size from a small VW to a full on touring coach.
  33. It is not unusual for students to study at academy until well after midnight during the week.
  34. Elderly women, or ajumas, commonly wear ridiculous sun visors (see Halloween for reference).
  35. T-Shirt sayings make absolutely no sense yet are not acknowledged by their owners.*
  36. "Mickey Mouse" rivals "Michigan Football" for the most common shirt design.
  37. Shoes are a huge status symbol.
  38. Korean women wear heels an inappropriate amount, but not as much as the Japanese.
  39. All Korean women scuttle. . .it is the quickest, safest, and goofiest way to travel in heels.
  40. School uniforms are worn by all students except those in elementary school.
  41. Hair length and style is as regulated as the uniforms.
  42. Koreans will dress to the nines for whatever sport or activity they are participating in.
  43. Mountain climbing, or 'hiking,' is a serious, serious undertaking for Koreans.
  44. Absolutely no one runs or jogs for exercise.
  45. Rollerbladers will do small circles around prescribed tracks with the form and dress of racing Olympic ice skaters.
  46. Static workout machines are located in absolutely every park.
  47. Mountain bikes are ridden along flat river trails but walked up inclines and over curbs.
  48. No dog is bigger than a small cockier spaniel. . .unless your ex-military and have a retired German Shepard.
  49. Dogs wear costumes, sweaters, and shoes. . .come on, Hobbes never even wore shoes.
  50. Rabbits are sold on the streets of Itaewon.
  51. As are fish and turtles.
  52. Karaoke is not sung in public but rather in small rooms known as norebongs.
  53. Movies, out on video, can also be viewed privately in small rooms called, DVD Bongs.
  54. Computer games are played in giant smoke filled rooms, PC Bongs.
  55. The newest Playstation games can be tried out at any local Playstation Bong.
  56. Cellphones not only work half a dozen stories underground but can receive television signals and video chat as well.
  57. According the majority of Koreans, "there is nothing to do in Korea but drink."
  58. Soju, a clear liquor (around 20% abv) distilled from grains, usually rice, is Korea's libation of choice.
  59. A 12 oz bottle of soju costs about 900 won or roughly 60 cents.
  60. Drinking is always to be accompanied by eating, whether it be a full meal or snacking on dried squid.
  61. For general 'sickness,' a bottle of soju taken with red pepper is the recommended antidote.
  62. Soju companies use giveaway promotions similar to soda companies.
  63. You can buy soju in 5 litre plastic jugs. . . for picnics, I guess?
  64. Soju mixes with anything and it's terrible taste instantly disappears. . .this is dangerous!
  65. There is never an inappropriate time to drink soju.
  66. There are mid-mountain soju stops that help hikers refuel.
  67. Koreans measure themselves by how many bottles of soju they can drink at a time.
  68. Our boss once threatened to "drown us in Soju."
  69. Soju hits you like a wild haymaker. . .first you're there. . .then you're not.
  70. The haymaker is guaranteed to be ringing in your head the next morning, undoubtedly.
  71. All stereotypes about Asian drivers are true.
  72. Sidewalks are not just for people but cars and motorcycles as well.
  73. It is not uncommon for people to be hit by cars and or motorcycles.
  74. Traffic accidents appear to be resolved before the light changes again.
  75. If an accident requires investigation, a police officer will outline the scene in spray paint and move the vehicles in order to free up traffic almost immediately.
  76. No one ever seems to be too shaken up by an accident.
  77. Red lights mean stop. . .if you want them to.
  78. If you plan on running a red, simply lay on the horn and speed up.
  79. Taxis are immune to any and all traffic laws. . .or so it seems.
  80. Looking out the front window of a taxi while on the highway looks like a video game, no joke.
  81. Subway signs are all in Chinese, English and Korean.
  82. Station exits are numbered and distinguished by the landmarks that they lead to.
  83. The subway closes shortly before midnight.
  84. Shortly after midnight taxi fares jump markedly.
  85. Bus information is almost entirely in Korean.
  86. Buses always have the right of way.
  87. If you take the subway within an hour of riding a bus you are only charged the fare for one.
  88. All public transportation is extremely efficient.
  89. Rush hour is between nine at night and one in the morning.
  90. Koreans do not acknowledge the idea of tact or prudence.
  91. Compliments do not exist, only a lack of complaints.
  92. Your Boss is God.
  93. Present giving is a way of life and expected by everyone.
  94. Take and receive with two hands.
  95. Anything that is exchanged is presented (ex. doughnuts are handed over at Dunkin' Doughnuts as if they were crown jewels).
  96. Rock, Paper, Scissors solves literally any dispute.
  97. Men who don't smoke are rare, women who smoke are whores.
  98. Koreans do not sleep.
  99. They work. And drink.
  100. And last, but not least, if you're ever asked, remember, Dokdo is Korean.
*Best T-Shirt Sayings
The following shirts were all adorned by middle school girls. . .
1. "I Love My Hookers."
2. "I'm in my prime"
3."Black Girls Wear White Nickers,
White Girls Wear Black Nickers,
Loose Girls Wear No Nickers."



Thank you for keeping up to date, and, if you made it this far, we'd love to hear what you think!!

-Adam and Nate

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Happy Thanksgiving!

In light of spending this year's Thanksgiving abroad, in a new and very different culture from the one in which I was raised, I was reminded of an article that was printed a few years ago in the Tufts Daily.

The following piece, published the Monday before Thanksgiving, was written in response to a supposed 'Thanksgiving' edition of the university's conservative publication, The Primary Source, in which Editor in Chief, Nicholas Boyd, vehemently attacked the ideas of both tolerance and multiculturalism as undermining traditional American values.

For those of you who have forgotten what traditional American values are, or perhaps would like a friendly reminder as one of the many reasons why our nation is so great, please enjoy the attached article! Whether or not you find the ranting commentary of a displaced college sophomore worthwhile, I hope everyone has a fantastic Thanksgiving, and be glad wherever you are. . .cause it's probably not as weird as Korea!

America's Multiculturalism Should be Cherished-By Adam Saper

Monday, November 24, 2008

Namhansanseong Provincial Park

Having warmed up towards the later half of last week, Nate and I decided that we should spend the weekend outdoors while we still had a chance. As the Korean national pastime seems to be hiking, we decided to find ourselves a good ole' nature walk. Taking a suggestion from LP's Seoul City Guide, we set off Saturday morning in search of Namhansanseong Provincial Park.

To get to our destination we hoped on Line 7 at Hagye, rode down towards the city center, changed to Line 5 at Gunja, where I normally get off for rehearsal, went three stops to the east before making a final transfer to the yet unexplored pink Line 8 at Cheonho. From here it was another twenty minutes or so before arriving at stop 823, Namhansanseong. . .sounded like the right place to us!

While we weren't sure exactly where to go, we chose the exit (which I've now forgotten) that appeared to point us in the direction of what seemed like it could be a big park. . .according to the sparse "neighborhood map" found in the station. Heading up the stairs out into the daylight we noticed a couple ahead of us that were apparently setting off for a hike. . .or so their outfits suggested!

We decided it would be a good idea to kind of latch on and follow them to wherever it might be that they were looking to climb. Luckily, they appeared to head off in the same direction that I had half heartedly believed would be correct. . .phew! For a moment we considered catching a bus to the park's entrance as LP suggested that "any bus" would take us there and that the walk would be a grueling half 'n hour. Well. . .whoever wrote that part was either extremely lucky in picking buses or knew a little bit more about the area then the passage lets on. Let me tell you, with a whirlwind of red, green and blue buses going every which way, we weren't ready to just hop on and see where we ended up. . .no thank you. . .we'll stick to tailgating others!

Having passed a number of tired worn out looking hikers going the other way following a row of mountain sport shops, we figured that we were in fact headed in the right direction and could pass our unknowing guides as they stopped to refuel. LP was right about one thing, it took us probably just about half an hour of walking, uphill, to get to what appeared to be a park entrance! Even so we got to see plenty of interesting things on our walk. . .take the norebong (karaoke room) pictured below for example! I asked Nate to try and out scare the monster. . .who do you think won?!


There was no real 'entrance' to this park but rather the road just sort of dead ended at a forest line where dozens of people, all fully dressed in 'hiking gear' congregated. Just past the front sign, which we could not read, was a rather large plaza with a rather small gathering, listening to a rather terrible saxophonist play over a truly terrible recording! Not quite sure what this was for or why people were listening but we quickly hustled onwards.

We did stop briefly, just before the paved path took a steep upward turn, to gawk at a group of hikers hosing themselves down with invisible water. . .huh!? Ahhh okay, the noise we heard was in fact pressurized air that they were using to, I dunno, dust themselves off!? I can't say I've ever done any real serious hiking but I certainly haven't heard of anyone taking an airbath afterwards. . .so Nate decided to give it a try! Too bad we hadn't climbed anything yet!
Not sure really what lay ahead or, to be honest, where we were, we set off in the only direction one reasonably should go. . .up!

As LP again accurately predicted, the path was much more civilized than many Korean hikes as it was paved and leveled out every few hundred meters. . . to give us foreigners a break I assume as Koreans take no notice of rest areas unless they have stalls with soju waiting. As the noisy one man band faded, the sound of the small stream running along the path began to pick up. While there were a number of places to stop and drink fresh water filtered through the mountain, neither of us took the chance. . .even though many others clearly enjoyed this au natural refreshment!

Before we got too far up the path we came across, what I would call, a reflexology walk. I have seen these before but never one this large and varied. There are diagrams at the entrance to the walk highlighting the soles of one's feet and clearly, though not to us, explaining the benefits of walking on different surfaces. Shoes are to be left in the little cubbies while pain and worries are to be left on the walk.

Zoom in on the picture to see the different surfaces that were placed every two metres or so. While the walk looks short in this picture, it in fact is a large loop and the enclosed stones within. . .I was lucky enough to get an almost untainted picture though the number of shoes in the cubbies indicated that there were certainly more patrons hidden throughout the trees. . .either that or some hikers on the hill with very, very sore feet!
A bit further up the path we came across a roped off area that looked like some sort of cemetery or at least memorial. Rocks, as you can see, were stacked high upon one another making these delicately balanced towers the appeared to be reaching up towards the sky! Not sure who made 'em, why they did it, or what it means. . .but they sure are beautiful!

Marching on we eventually came to another level area that turned out to be the entrance to a rather small temple. Painted in what appears to be traditional Korean Buddhist styling the temple really stood out against the grey and brown of the hibernating forest. Behind the little temple we walked up a few stairs to a small shrine where even small figurines were tucked away into another pile of awkwardly piled rocks. Who or what. . .I don't know. . .enjoy. . .I did.


After catching our breath we continued onwards, or more so, upwards. Eventually the path made a sharp hairpin turn, just at the foot of another 'park.' This left us two options. . .the first was to follow the path which appeared to lead to a ghastly tower of stairs. . .or the second option was to proceed in to the park that seemed to lead to what must be the world's largest outdoor gym (free weights, machines and every type of bar you could imagine, just out there for the public to use). Since neither of us were in the mood to pump some iron, though a number of Koreans were already hard at work, we decided to lace up and hit the stairs. This is just the start of 'em!

After what seemed like an eternity of climbing, so said my screaming calf muscles, we finally pulled up above the foliage to enjoy a view of the surrounding hills.

Only a few flights later did we arrive at what looked to be the final set of stairs! I quickly snapped a picture of this 'end of the line' stairway, then hustled up to the top to what I imagined would be a fantastic panorama view of Korea!

Instead, I got. . .a road!?!? A stupid road!?!? You're telling me that the past hour I just spent doubled over walking up some stupid path to tear up a flight of never ending stairs was simply to get to a road?! I could've taken a bus to this road! For probably no more than a nickel (if you've checked the won lately) I could've taken a private limo up to this road! Where was the sign that said, "Enjoy your hike up to the beautiful road! We hope you enjoy the view of asphalt at altitude!" Needless to say. . .I was surprised!
Well. . .we pondered what to do for a while and then Nate pointed out that the fortress wall, which we heard was around here, was in fact embedded in the hillside that you can see above. So, we headed down the road you see on your right, expecting to at least get close. . .this was not the case. The road ends right at the silly excuse for a gate that doesn't even cover all three lanes of traffic! Way to get underquoted on construction costs! Just kidding. . .still bitter from the unfulfilling climb!

Then, off to the left, on the protruding hill, we noticed a couple clamoring up through the forest. Well there were no signs pointing us in that direction, there were also no signs telling us not to. . .so off we went. The climb through the woods was much trickier than it appeared from flat ground, quickly growing to a very steep grade made more difficult by wet leaves underfoot. Nate made the astute observation that it was be bad to slip as one most likely would not stop sliding until reaching the bottom. . .I dug my toes in. . .hard!

About three quarter of the way up we finally caught up to our leaders who introduced themselves. Well. . .not really, the man, Yoon, introduced himself and kind of shrugged at the idea of there being someone with him, though she looked elated to be there. Yoon offered us a few pieces of chocolate, presumably because we looked like we needed the energy, not necessarily for good measure, and suggested that we follow him the rest of the way up. . .which we did!

Only a few hundred meters later we arrived at a clearing in front of a 10 foot high fortress wall! So this is what we read about! While last weekend we spend the evening walking along the northern wall of Seoul in Samcheong-dong, we had managed to now find our way to the southern side of the ancient wall that once guarded the city. . .exciting!

Well, this must be the end of the line I figured. . .can't go up anymore. . .time to turn around. Yoon had other ideas. He led us a ways along the wall, until we were out of sight of the few other hikers who had congregated at the top of this climb. Yoon then indicated that we were going to be climbing the wall. . . .hmm. Now, I've not climbed many a fortress wall in my short life but I've always been under the impression that is exactly what one is not supposed to do with them. . .but, when in Korea!


So, we followed Yoon and Wife up the side and over the top of this crumbling wall.

Nate really enjoying the chance to climb something!

All of a sudden we realized that we were inside the great fortress wall that once held out evil invaders from. . .well. . .I'm not quite sure. . .but you can read about it later in some of the pictures! Yoon insisted that we follow him which we did, as we walked along the wall curving left and right, up and down.


We eventually came to a peak where we could look back on the few kilometers of wall we had traversed and the almost-too-steep hill we climbed to get there!
A sense of accomplishment at 500m high!

Yoon eventually led us to a fortress, that I believe is called Sueojangdae, that once housed the King in exile. . .how fascinating! He first took us over the English sign that I noticed, pictured below, before leading us into the fortress grounds where he briefly showed us around and said goodbye. We thanked him profusely for guiding us, giving us treats and being a wonderful guest photographer! Then, Yoon and Wife went their own way while Nate and I were left to marvel at this ancient structure. . .which you get to enjoy the result of!

Namhansanseong Fortress

Or, Sueojangdae?

Nate with our trusty guides!

Traditional paint job on the fortress.It wasn't exactly crowded up here at the top of the mountain!

Wildlife in the hills

Fall Colors

After a half hour or more of running our camera batteries just about dry, Nate and I headed down from the temple to the winding pathway that ran along the fortress wall. We decided that it wasn't quite time to turn back yet and headed off the opposite way from which we came. We soon came to a lookout point that LP suggests might be called Seomun. Deciding that having come this far the short climb to the top was well worth it, we headed upwards.

As we approached the lookout tower we noticed a couple waving from the top of it. Who could these nut jobs be?! Usually everyone in Korea is so reserved and introspective. . .why so showy?! Oh wait a minute, I know that guy, yes, it's Yoon! We had managed to against stumble upon our fearless guide who instantly re-adopted us as poor lost souls in need of a cultural awakening! A few photo-ops later, check out how far beyond where we were the wall continues to run, we were heading back down the look out tower, again following Yoon to wherever me might lead.

The view from the top. . .of the lookout.

Well it turns out Yoon had put in a solid day of hiking and was in dire need of some refreshment. He asked us if either of us had ever had makoli, to which, after double checking with eachother, we responded 'no.' This both surprised and excited Yoon who declared that we then must follow him to sample Korea's famous, as all Korean food is to Koreans, rice wine. He asked us if we liked rice wine to which we could only remind him that we had not yet had it so we couldn't honestly say. . .but would give it a try if it meant so much to him.


Following Yoon through a small doorway in the side of the wall, we came out in to a rather open clearning in which two small plastic tables were set up with a small spread of vegetables on each. Yoon explained to us that makoli is always taken with vegetables to which we readily agreed. . .any snack sounded good at this point as all I had consumed since breakfast were the three little chocolates Yoon had originally given me and a gatorade that I purchased from a little ole' lady high up on the hillside (after of course complaining for an hour about how the only thing in the world that I wanted was a gatorade. . . interesting).

We marched up to the small folding tables and Yoon barked out orders to the woman in an apron who apparently attended to the spread. She whipped out three styrofoam cereal bowls which she then filled with a white milky liquid poured from a large brass (I dunno. . .all shiny metal looks the same to me) kettle. Yoon held up his bowl and prompted us to do the same, toasting we tilted our bowls back, took a big gulp and let out a satisfied "Aaaaaahhhhgghghhh," just as Yoon demonsrated. While I was super hesitant about a white milky wine at first, the flavor was actually somewhat pleasant. . .thought masked to some degree by the fact that we were drinking out of disposable bowls. . .this I still do not understand!

Yoon then prompted us to make use of the vegetable spread laid out in front of us. The process went as follows. Pick up a raw piece of cabbage and hold in one hand, most likely your non dominant one. Then, with your good hand, or, a great deal of difficulty, grab a small dried fish from the tub which you dip into a red bean paste and slap on to the cabbage. Not too much bean stuff though or you'll be laughed at. . . .trust me! You then rab a piece of what looks like a green onion stalk but tastes like garlic and dip it into a chili sauce. . .this lands on the cabbage as well. From here you use a small green toothpick to skewer both a clove of garlic and a piece of white onion which too end up on the cabbage.

From here you roll the cabbage wrap. . .toast with your hiking buddies, take an enormous gulp of makoli, let out a roaring "Aaaahhhhhhgggghh," and pop the whole veggie roll (with little fish's head sitll on) in to your mouth. The next five minutes of course are spent chewing whatever it is you've got jammed in your speaker box but who cares when you've got a good swig of warm rice wine dripping down your throat. . . .Honestly, the whole experience is a lot more enjoyable then it may sound or then I may have believed at the time! We repeated this whole process a few more times untill all the makoli was gone. . but don't you dare forget to get every last piece of rice out of your bowl. . .wouldn't want to waste now would we!

While the flavor and experience of drinking rice wine on top of a mountain with a random Korean is an experience you will have to have for yourself to truly understand, one thing I still don't get is Wife's role. During this whole ordeal she just kinda stood by smiling, not partaking in any of it. I couldn't quite tell if she just didn't enjoy rice wine or if it would have been inappropriate for her to engage in this inter-man exchange. . . it wasn't ever clear, but anyways, she just kind of stood off to the side smiling and munching on raw cabbage. Perhaps she was a rabbit. . .come to think of it, I don't think she made a sound except while chewing on cabbage. . .but she always did have a big nice smile! Must be a great neighborhood mom, always happy, never nosy!

After finishing our snack, Yoon of course insisted on paying for our treat while I egged him on suggesting that we could cover ourselves. . .this was to no avail as it would be wholly embarassing for a Korean to let their junior, more so an inexperience foreigner, treat themselves to anything.

Indicating that we were about to head back for the day, Yoon again suggested that we follow him. He and Bunny led us down the hill on the opposite side of the wall from which we hiked up. We eventually made it to a paved path that led towards an ever growing, but never large civilization. Set back in the heart of these woods, this 'neighborhood,' if you will, stood in start contrast to the grey urban scene we had come up out of the subway in. In fact, the only thing that either Nate or I could think of to compare it to was a small ski town out west!

The architecture was all very natural and reminiscint of log cabins, despite being obviously Asian. There were no highrises to speak of and the only traffic was an occasional mud cacked car passing by. . .definitely not something you find inside Seoul! The air was thick with the smell of dried leaves and wood burning stoves while the the lazy dogs wandering up and down the streets just completed the whole scene.

Admiring the 'mountain style' architecture.

Town Square (or circle to be precise)!

Our hillside descent eventually leveled out at a large circular intersection that Yoon described, or so I believe he did, as the center of town. From here he pointed us to the corner on which the Number 9 bus would come, and in fact was just departing from, to take us back into the 'city.' We again thanked the couple profusely for their kind guidance and gracious snack! They too seemed pleased with the afternoon and surprisingly, took off back the way we had just come. Only then did we realize that they had literally just come all they way down the mountain to show us where to go and were now headed back up to enjoy the rest of their evening. . . sometimes people here are just too nice!

So after a long day of hiking through the mountain town of Namhansanseong along the old southern fortress wall of Seoul. . .we decided to call it a day! We briefly wandered through 'town' though we covered the whole thing in our fifteen minute excursion. . .how true of a small town it was! We caught the next Number 9 to roll through and winding down the steep road back towards the subway we realized just how far from Seoul we really were. Sure, we were still within the metro system and to be honest, I'm not even sure we left Seoul city limits. . .but up on the mountain, winding through the last of fall's colors, I came to realize why is was that so many Seoulites go hiking each weekend! Sometimes you really do just need to get away. . .and from my experience. . .I'd certainly recommend Namhansanseong. . .I'm thankful we found it!

Happy Thanksgiving!

A map of Namhansamseong. . .your guess as to where we started, went or finished is as good as mine. . .feel free to make it up. . . we probably went there anways!

Sunday, November 23, 2008

Spitfires vs. Chungju Match Report

Well apparently it was my turn this week to prepare the 'match report' for SSFL as Martin, who normally does the write ups, has voluntarily decided to forgo the season's remaining matches. Obviously not everyone can play all the time but lemme tell ya, it's a lot better to be on the bench of a winning team then it is to be at home, watching them play. Anyways, Sun Uk asked me if I would prepare the match report this week to which I begrudgingly agreed. . .at least I can just copy and paste it here so that I don't have to re-write everything to fill you, my supportive reader, in on the details!

Enjoy. . .

Spitfires vs. ChungJu--Match Report

On a brisk Sunday afternoon in late fall, the Spitfires played host to the well-traveled ChungJu, squaring off at home in Apgujeong.

Thanks to Todd's diplomacy and Sun Uk's grace, the Apgujeong All-stars managed to be coaxed off 'their' pitch a bit early, allowing the match to begin a good 15 minutes before the scheduled kickoff time, in order to beat the 5:17pm sunset. Both teams came out strong while ChungJu showed the fire of a team who last faced an embarrassing home defeat against the visiting Spitfires.

While the Spitfires looked slightly understaffed at kickoff, no one paid our numbers much attention as we were aware that a few, key players, would be arriving late. For twenty minutes the ball bounced up and down the small field to neither teams advantage; some might say it was like a game of 'ping-pong.'

Then, without warning, on a scrappy play just outside the Spitfires goal box, two ChungJu players collided, sending the ball whirling toward our goal with uncontrolled and unpredictable spin. Try as he might, even the great 'HanDS' couldn't quite reel in this knuckleball shot. . .1-0 ChungJu.

ChunJu's celebration was cut short however as they noticed the always ferocious Joseph warming up on the sideline. Playing brilliantly while on the field, an unfortunate ball to the face forced our star center midfielder to not only take a seat but head home early due to vision problems. . .we all wish you the best Joseph!

Never a team to get down when falling behind, the Spitfires soon responded with a well placed corner kick. As Todd and Richard crashed the net, Kyung Soo waited just off the back post, showing the patience of a true Korean. Watching the ball soar over the many heads of a crowded box, Kyung Soo drove home the equalizer with not so much as a bat of his eye! Tie game, 1-1.

The two teams continued to fight in the middle with neither producing much on offense. As ChungJu would break free, a solid, foreign led Spitfire defense would shut them down before they could capitalize. On the other side of the field, the International Blues Brothers, Jun Ho and Jun Suk led a relentless, but eventually futile, attack on ChungJu's over sized keeper.

Not long after the second goal, ChunJu managed to tap in another one off of a corner kick that left the Spitfire defense dazed and confused.

Halftime. . .Spitfires 1 - ChungJu 2

With no more than a two minute break, remember, darkness is SSFL's biggest and most consistent enemy as the season wears on, the teams took back the field for the second half. For a while, neither team played much like wining as both sides engaged in what Niki so eloquently described as a 'ping-pong' match. Alas, Chungju's relentless attack by thee Brazilian underwear models caught the Spitfires off guard, allowing for yet another one to slip past the always-sticky 'HanDS.'

Having little to lose at this point but pride, the Spitfires went on the attack that had thus far eluded them all game. Pounding the ball down the throats of ChungJu defenders, the straight shooting' Kyung Soo managed to push another brilliantly played ball (from Richard I believe?) past their keeper. We're right back in it. . .3-2 ChungJu.

As the Spitfires continued to rain down hell on the opposition, they took what some might consider the 'low' road to victory, brutally attacking the hands of our fearsome all mighty 'HanDS,' forcing him out of net and on to the bench. While Ammar stepped into goal, the Spitfires rallied on. Adam tried to return the favor by slide tackling the opposing keeper in attempts to keep alive a dime ball dropped by fellow Jumbo, Niki.

A pair of remarkable free kicks, one by Kyung Soo and the other from Niki, both ricocheted off the post, leaving an empty ringing sound in the heart of the worn Spitfires. Giving it everything they had, the Spitfires continued to challenge ChunJu in the air with a flurry of unproductive corner kicks. Alas, the final whistle blew and the match was called, just minutes before true sundown.

Final Score ChungJu 3 - Spitfires 2

While the Spitfires gave up a winnable one this week, perhaps it is all for the better! Who really wanted to move up to a flashy, showier D-1 when we have all the talent in the world right here? Like someone once said, it's better to big a big fish in a small pond rather than a goldfish in an ocean!



Wednesday, November 19, 2008

It's Snowing!

On the way to the bank this morning to set up savings accounts, I mentioned to Nate that yesterday I heard about snow possibly being in today's forecast. He dismissed this comment noting the blue sky and the dryness of the air. Besides, at around noon today it wasn't half as cold as it was yesterday at any point!

After an hour at the bank, we returned back to the out of doors only to find that the sky had entirely clouded over and the air had grown heavy with moisture. We quickly darted down the street to our favorite lunch spot for steamed kimchi. About halfway through our meal, we glanced outside and noticed that flurries had begun! While nothing was sticking to the ground, it was undeniable that there was snow in the air!

Waking out in to the darkened day, we were greeted by more of a cold rain then snow. However, as I walked, I noticed that little white flakes were in fact accumulating on my fleece!

Now, as I sit and stare out my newly opened window, it is clear that winter has arrived. Fully fledged snow is swirling all around my fourth floor window. . .whether or not it makes it to the ground is not for me to worry about, because, while it's up here, it's snow!

Happy Winter

Changes

Bulamsam in Her Fall Colors

Whoa! Stepping outside this morning I was greeted by a blast of cold air, the likes of which I had almost managed to forget about living in Louisiana for the past four years!

While this past weekend I played a soccer game in shorts and short sleeves, today I piled on a hooded sweat shirt and fleece over a long sleeve shirt before making the short trek to the post office down the street. Unless global warming brings a welcome heat wave through the area it seems like winter has arrived at last, in fact, the first snow fall is predicted for tomorrow. I'm keeping my fingers crossed! I figure as long as it's cold out, we might as well have snow. . .especially when I live a mere two minute walk from work!

To further demonstrate just how quickly the cold set in take a look at the picture below that I took out my window just yesterday. Waking up this morning I was surprised to see not single leaf remaining on what was, only yesterday, a brilliantly beautiful yellow tree! Alas, at least the devastation was being thoroughly enjoyed as I noticed a small boy kicking her fallen leaves into a small pile at the bottom of a slide to provide an all natural landing pad!

Wait, 'how is it,' you might ask, 'that you are able to see out your windows? Aren't they covered in hideous blue contact paper?' Well not anymore! I took a couple hours this past weekend to remove this eyesore from the bottom row of windows in my room which not only brightened the place but opened up a much larger and picturesque view than the one I had peeking out my thin sliding side windows!

While the majority of windows in Junggye, if not in Seoul, look out only to another high rise building with a not-so-distant neighbor staring back, I am lucky to have a bit more to look at. Luckily, out my window is a long boulevard that runs between two apartment buildings, neither of which obscures my distant view of a beautiful mountain with real live sky above it!

Now you must surely be asking yourself, 'well, if the view's so great, why didn't you ever get around to taking off the blue crap earlier?' Well if you'll remember, I used to sleep directly under these large picture windows and, as ugly as the contact paper was, it allowed me to sleep in a bit past sunrise each morning without being blinded in bed!

'Well why don't you sleep there anymore? You move in to the bathroom or something?' No silly, I finally moved my bed, with Nate's help (thanks), up to my loft, or 'bedroom.' While I was apprehensive about the move at first, I have grown quite accustomed to it already for a number of reasons.

First of all, now that winter has set in, my room is far from cozy at all times. However, as we all know, or at least were once aware of, heat rises, thus making my loft a much warmer place then my window side sleep station. Additionally, in my new bedroom I have two gentile incandescent lights next to my bed that are manipulable from both up- and down-stairs! This is good news for my reading in bed at night habit that had dwindled under a high florescent light that required leaving bed to turn off!
The low, low, ceiling on the loft isn't great but really why do you need to stand up in your bedroom anyways? I have more than enough head room to sit on my bed at least. . .so long as I don't bounce! I've whacked my dome against the bottom of the neighbors floor a couple of times already but I'm sure I'll grow out of it. . .hopefully! The only other issue is the steep and narrow staircase that I must tackle going to and fro my new bedroom! Luckily, I am not one that usually wakes up to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night as I don't trust myself handling the stairs in the daytime, let alone while I'm sleepy in the dark!

'Okay, okay, so you moved, big deal, now you have a big open room downstairs that's just as depressing as it was before except now you don't even have a bed to lie on.' Ah ha, now this is where you are wrong you Negative Nancy you! All these minor changes in my living arrangements were not coincidental but part of a well calculated grand scheme known as. . .getting a couch! Though I had thought about it since moving in, only last week did I actually take the big step and buy one for myself! Not sure why it took this long, might be commitment issues. . .I have had very tragic partings with every couch that I have ever bought or had given to me at this point!


Anyways, after continued inquiry as to how and where I go about getting one, I was consistently directed to a fantastic internet shopping haven known, electronically, as Gmarket.co.kr. From here I was able to select for myself a wonderful little seating apparatus that Cleo graciously ordered for me using her Gmarket account. I even gave her a small commission for helping me with the order! The delivery man was also happy to accept cash as he arrived only three days later at my door ready to drop off, set up and haul out the trash from my new, beautiful, couch!

I have wasted no time breaking it in and have already watched a couple partial movies on it while examining the prime location. Furthermore, I have tested it's sleepability by conking out for a pair of half hour naps on both Monday and Tuesday before heading off to school. Never have I felt so refreshed! I've yet to fold it out flat and really take it for a whirl but, why would I when I have a fantastic single bed upstairs that I always manage to partially roll out of! Oh yeah. . .maybe I will try sleeping on the new furniture some night!

Alas, my room is finally 'coming together' and is almost acceptable for actual living. I still need some sort of coffee table to kick my feet up on, eat off of (if I ever were to cook for myself, and prop up guitar books so I stop straining my neck looking at the floor. Who knows, I'll keep my eye out, worst comes to worse there's always Gmarket!

Oh yeah, I also managed to snag a little additional piece of furniture for my room from the hallway. 'Oh great, so now you're in to stealing other peoples' things, fantastic, just the way to show the world how gracious American's are.' Ugh, no, will you let me finish! A few weeks ago a family down the hall moved out, at first all their stuff was moved in to the hallway where it stayed for a day or two before the magic moving fairy came and collected it all. Since that day there have remained three articles of the move that seem to be either forgotten or discarded: a long plate of glass, a wooden board of equal size, and a small cabinet.

Clearly, I have been eyeing the cabinet ever since moving day and have not yet noticed it recognized by anyone else. After discussing the mater, briefly, with Nate yesterday, I decided to try out Korean squatter's rights. On my way back home I dragged my finger over the top of the cabinet simply inspecting it's finish. What I was greeted with was a handful of dust and grime! That sealed the deal for me! If no one cared enough to clean up the poor little cabinet then I would! I hauled it down the hall and in to my apartment, where, two blackened washcloths later, I shoved it under my existing flat plank desk! Though in doing so I lose the nice surface area on top of the cabinet, it's really pretty convenient to have a set of drawers next to my desk where I previously had nothing!

So, I will continue to fuss around rearranging until I'm comfortable, which, may never come. For example, I rearranged my room in New Orleans, what, a week or so before I check out for good?! Sometimes I just feel like shaking things up a bit! Not sure if there are any issues involved in that but I'd guess you could deduce something. . .anything to add Aunt Toni!?

Oh, and before I forget, as while we're on the topic of changes, I just thought it would be interesting to note that for the Level 3 Speaking lesson last week, the kids had to read a passage and answer questions about Tupac Shakur. Having an interest in the topic at hand, I managed to expand the passage into a brief lecture about the development of hip-hop and Tupac's role as an American icon. This of course I supplemented with relevant material. . .notably, a recording of the highly acclaimed Tupac song "Changes," which discusses a wide range of social, political, racial and economical issues. The kids didn't exactly get it, and no one really liked the song. . .but I sure had a fun time teaching it to them!

-It's time for us as a people to start makin' some changes.
Let's change the way we eat, let's change the way we live,
and let's change the way we treat each other.

You see the old way wasn't working
so it's on us to do what we gotta do, to survive.
And still I see no changes
Can't a brother get a little peace?
It's war on the streets & the war in the Middle East.
Instead of war on poverty they got a war on drugs so the police can bother me-

Tupac Shakur-"Changes"

Monday, November 17, 2008

Sad, Sad Korea!

Apparently Seoul is not only the unhappiest of 10 major world cities but Koreans manage to spend 14% of their day worrying about something while allotting just over .1% of their day to act of laughing! I wonder if there is a correlation!? To see what I'm talking about, check out the links below. Neither of the articles are very long and I've already given you the gist of both. . .if you decide not to read, don't worry, you're not missing a ton.

Anyways, here are the two articles that I used today for 'current events.'

Koreans Laugh 1.5 Minutes a Day

Seoul Ranks Last in Happiness Index

As I am expected to pick a 'controversial' story that the students will be able to discuss, I was hoping that the claims made by the aforementioned articles would allow for an interesting discussion. Unfortunately I our in class discourse fell short of my expectations. While I'm not entirely sure of what I was looking for, I certainly hoped for more than "because we go to academy," as a possible reason for Seoulites unhappiness. As for the observation that the three most unhappy cities are all in Asia, the only possible reason I was able to get out of the kids was again related to the amount of studying. While, granted, this is probably so, I would prefer to look at a correlation involving rice consumption rather than school attended!

Not much else to tell ya' except that I'm keeping my fingers crossed for the rumors of another 'study period' coming up soon! You remember that time, seven weeks ago to be exact, when all I had to do for work was show up, as the Korean teachers assumed the primary responsibility of preparing students for their big exams!? Well, it appears that finals are just around the corner and I'm sure not going to be the one helping the students study for them! I hope what I think is true as I have a lot of reading to do. . .thanks to my dad clearing out the 'for sale' shelf at the East Lansing Public Library! I have half the encyclopedia on liberal discourse, more than enough books on ethics and self motivation to inspire an AA meeting, along with a single work of fiction by Ayn Rand (which I, and probably you, are too young to know) that would kill a small dog if it landed on one!

So, from Seoul, Happy Monday, and don't forget to laugh!

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Exhausted!

What a long, long Sunday!

Saturday night Nate and I, along with Joseph, planned on going to see the new James Bond movie. I had 'DYB song' rehearsal in Gunja earlier in the day and returned to Junggye around six in the evening at which point we called Joseph to see if he was ready to go. Apparently he had just laid down for a nap after a long day of cheering on DYB high school students at a big test in Gimp. He agreed to go in two hours and we managed to whittle away the time on Nate's relatively newly aqcuired sofa.

Two and a half hours later, after watching another Bond movie on tv, Die Another Day, we again phoned Joseph to see if he was ready. Apparently I again woke him at this point but he agreed to go in half-n-hour. A little after 10pm we had met up and were on our way to Lotte Cinema, yes, that Lotte, in Nowon.

Up on the tenth floor of the Lotte Department store, Joseph 'took a number' and waited for his turn to purchase tickets. We got three tickets (7,000won a piece) for the 11:15pm showing. Lucky for us as there were only 18 seats left that I'm sure were picked up soon after we grabbed ours. The reason I know this is that seats, for popular movies, are assigned. . .and we got three in the font row. Apparently Bond is incredibly popular in Korea, especially late on a Saturday night.

While watching a movie from the front row in Korea is just as awkward as watching a movie from the front row in America, there was one added bonus. In front our seats were small rocking ottomans to help front row viewers pretend like they are comfortable when they are in fact far from being so!

Opening with a roaring car chase, Quantum Solace was certainly action packed, though rather un-Bondish in the lack of gadgets, gizmos and globe threatening bad guys. While I enjoyed watching, my accompaniments decided that it wasn't nearly as good as the last, and Daniel Craig's first, Bond movie. Oh well, guess I missed that one!

After the movie we swung by a well known Nowon hangout No Block where we unintentionally met up with Bryne who had just returned from a hot date and was trying his luck on a young Korean woman who claimed to be Japanese. . . interesting. Eating my fill of snack mix, as No Block's is the best in all of Korea, I figured it was approaching bed time seeing as how I had a Sunday field trip in front of me with the Spitfires.

This week's match was not only against Daejeon but unfortunately, in Daejeon. This small (population 1.4 million people) city is located even further south than Cheongju making it my most distant travel within the country of Korea to date.

I pulled myself out of bed at 9:30am and whacked my head on the ceiling for the second day in a row. Having recently moved upstairs into my loft following the acquisition of a new couch, (more to come on the 'new' room hopefully by midweek) I'm still not quite used to crouching while getting out of bed! As for the stairs down. . .while, I take those very, very slowly for the meantime!

After loading up my soccer gear and a couple of old magazines I shot across the street to grab a gimbap to go for breakfast. Huddled over myself trying to stay warm while waiting for the bus, I saw a familiar face coming towards me: Julia! Apparently she was 'at work' and just ran out to get breakfast. While I have no idea why a teacher would be at work on a Sunday morning I didn't press the issue, noticing an approaching bus. Still part asleep and impatient to get out of the cold, I said good bye to Julia and hopped on.

The bus was surprisingly empty and I was able for once to actually grab one of the dozen or so seats. I quickly learned why. Pulling up to the first stoplight, which I am accustomed to turning right at, the bus moved over into the left hand turn lane! Doh! I got off at the next stop only to realize that I had boarded the 1142 and not the 1224. I mean. . .the numbers are really similar. . .oops!

On top of that, once off the bus, I realized I had forgotten to swipe my T-Money card on the way out meaning that I wouldn't get free entrance to the subway but would have to pay another 900 won (which at this point is worth about a dozen nickels or less). Oh well! I decided that it was simply to early to be muddling with buses and grabbed myself a 2,000 won taxi to Hagye. As Homer Simpson puts it, "public transportation is for losers" anyways!

I did eventually make it on to Line 7 and down to the Express Bus Terminal, where, armed with detailed directions, I was able to quickly find the gates for Daejeon. . .where no one was waiting! Realizing that one must buy a ticket before actually getting on the bus, I figured the ticket booth would be my next best shot. This turned out to be an intelligent thought.

By 11:25am, the scheduled meeting time, we had manged to round up a decent squad of 12; hey, one sub is better than no subs! Nikki purchased all our tickets for us and we paid him back a dollar over to chip in for the younger guys' tickets, whatever that means, though I think it might be a kind phrase for unemployed as I'm pretty sure I'm one of the youngest on the team!

A good two hour nap later we arrived in Daejeon where I remembered to scarf down the extra gimbap I had bought at the bus terminal. This is something I will certainly not do again as it tasted substantially worse, was much smaller, and cost more than the one I ate earlier from my local Gimbapchongook.

Nikki directed us in to taxis headed towards the pitch at Pai Chai University. David, from Grand Rapids, and I hopped in with the twins. Thus, I was treated to a healthy mix of German, English and Korean on the way to the field, 15 minutes or so away.

The taxi driver didn't exactly know where the field was but figured that the big brown rectangle on his navigation system had to be something. So, despite turning down a dead end, he ushered us out and in the direction that, he believed, the field was in. . .and what a field it was.

Yep, you guess it, dirt again! Not only was it dirt but it was much finer than my first dirt field experience. Consequently, taking a whack at the ball felt like playing beach soccer to a small degree. Furthermore, the field was huge! By far the largest field I've played on since highschool, if I ever played on a field this large in high school! It really gives you a better idea of just how great of shape professional players are in to keep running up and down this vast barren stretch of land!

While warming up we learned that the other team had cancelled the referee, unaware that we would have a full squad to play with. Apparently this was the result of Niki's brilliant scheme to tell the other team that we didn't have enough players to encourage them to go out drinking the night before, only to let them know a few hours before the game that we would be able to compete. Interesting, but talk about your all time backfires! Their team manager ended up playing ref and I'm pretty sure the whistle blew no more than a half dozen times despite quite a number of testy offsides and bloodied bodies!

As Niki barked out the starting line up, Martin seemed disappointed to not be starting, which, to be honest, is no big deal having only one sub your guaranteed to play at least 75 minutes or so anyways! However, as everyone turned around to warm up, someone noticed Martin trodding away from the field with his bag slung over his shoulder. Not sure whether or not he would return we all continued to warm up. He didn't! While this might be looked at as good in the sense of losing a weak link, as I said, one sub is better than no subs! Especially on a regulation sized pitch against the number one team in the league!

Starting at center attacking midfield (don't ask me how I have adopted this role as I'm sure Archer would flip seeing it) I really tried to conserve energy, only making offensive runs when they wielded attacking possibilities and primarily sticking to marking their two center midfielders, both of whom were incredible ball players! With our solid defense, and Niki in goal (our keeper, back up, and double-back up Amar all were out) we managed to keep Daejeon scoreless for the first 35 minutes or so.

Unfortunately, in a contestable battle inside the box, a Daejeon player was able to out muscle Niki in the air to tap home the first goal with his head. While a good number of our players spent a good amount of time complaining about the goal to the referee, who again is a member of the other team (oh, and on a side note, looks like a cross between an Australian explorer, California surf bum and Swedish adult film star) would have nothing to hear of it. Personally, I didn't think it mattered as Daejeon had subs a plenty while we were already struggling to stay upright!

An hour or so later the game was called and we Spitfires retired to the bench, disappointed, but not heart broken after a 3-0 loss. While it was a bummer to let one go after a six game winning streak, losing by three with no goalie, subs or energy is not really a bad loss. . .especially to the league's best team that beat us by two last time, on our own pitch, with a full squad and keeper!

We took off from the field together much less down hearted than after any other loss! At the first corner, six of the guys grabbed cabs towards the highspeed KTX train while I stayed with the twins and 'younger guys' to go back to the bus station. As the five of us couldn't fit into one taxi, I hoped in the first one with Jun Ho as his brother, Jun Suk, stayed behind with Sang Ho and and Hee Myung.

The cab ride gave Jun Ho and I some good bonding time in which I was faced with a number of inevitably unanswerable questions. How are you enjoying Korea? In lieu of "Well, I'm not really but to be honest the food is cheap and I don't mind not paying taxes," I settled with, "I'm getting more used to it, it's not Mexico but, hey, it'll do." This was followed by, a question about what I do, which was easy enough to answer, yet not with out sounding like a cog in some larger Konglish machine (which I certainly am). The tricky one, as it always gets me, is when I'm asked why it is that I came to Korea. While I'd love to answer, "Because I didn't do enough research on teaching abroad," I usually resort to one of the wholly unfulfilling answers that I used to convince myself to come in the first place. . .primarily, "It pays better than most other places." Then I'll follow that with a couple lines about traveling and being on the other side of the world which, is a joke, as I am allotted only ten days of 'vacation' and most likely will not have a great opportunity to 'travel' outside of Seoul's extended subway system.

We did eventually get around to taking about what it is that I want to do later as I did managed to confess that I do not plan on sticking around for any more than a year at the longest. This too is a tricky question, not in that I need to manufacture it but because I simply do not know! I suggested going back to school though I admited I did not know for what. I admitted music therapy sounds interesting but only if I could corner some boutique market in which I could sell my services to undeserving socialites in Manhattan for way more than I desereved.

I then mentioned politics yet asserted that I did not necessarily desire to be a politician. Which brought me to talking about policy research/formation and the possibility of lobbying at which point my rambling was met with a very awkward and confused look. I again repeated the term 'lobby' and its various forms until I got a reaction, which was anything but positive, or so it seemed. I aksed Jun Ho if he knew what I meant and he slowly responded, yes. I still couldn't figure out why he was acting so weird until he seemed to release all the tension in his face and sit back. "You know, I am a lobbyist," he said. Ha! So that was it. . .but wait, why such disdain at first? I asked him how he liked the job and he said he loved it! So, that's not what caused the awkwardness. . .hmmm, keep digging!

I told him that I have a super-cool-kick-butt lobbyist in the family and he asked about what she did. . .so, I informed him that she simply doles out favors to guarantee legislators' votes. . .at least, that what I would have said if I was younger, untactful, and hadn't been bashed by my own mother in the Detroit Free Press (love you mommy!) for saying exactly that. I asked him about what he does and apparently he works for some EU Chamber of Commerce, representing European business interests in Korea. Whoa. . .heavy stuff! We talked about it for a while and he seemed to get more and more excited about telling someone, who was interested, what exactly he does!

He assured me though that the term 'lobbyist' in Korean is not always viewed favorably. I reassured him that he needn't worry as I don't think it's viewed with the same reverence as 'doctor' anywhere in the world, especially not in America. Jun Ho told me that it's a little bit worse in Korea as the actual word for lobbyist, and the profession itself, is very closely associated with corruption. After talking for a bit longer he made me promise not tell anyone else what it is that he does, and especially not to mention the L word. . .this I can handle. . .at least I got my answer to why such a strange initial reaction. He was clearly trying to evaluate whether a) I was trying to get at something that I shouldn't know about and b) whether I was trustworthy enough to know exactly what he does. Looks like I passed!

Anyways, we ended up meeting the full squad back at the bus station as the KTX had sold out of all trains from Daejeon to Seoul. . .much to the dismay of many! We were able to get tickets on the deluxe bus (for a whoping 13,000) however which settled a few people's worries. I again went to sleep immediately as I have developed a passion for sleeping on any moving vehicle that is not an airplane. I was awoken two hours later to a good deal of grumbling as the bus pulled to a stop. Apparently we were only half way to Seoul due to traffic and had pulled over for a pit stop. . .which I readily took advantage of! Back on the bus I was unable to return to my stupor state and instead watched the never ended skyline of large block buildings, hideous high rise apartments and neon lights go flashing by as the bus rolled slowly towards Seoul.

We arrived at around 9:30pm, over three and a half hours after leaving Daejeon! While most of the guys were about ready to kill someone (or be killed by their waiting wives) I still had a half hour subway ride to go. . .which brings me here, back to Junggye, where I ate dinner at the same Gimbapchongook I had breakfast at a good 12 hours before.

That was quite a day, and now, I am going to sleep!