War Memorial of Korea

With a day off work for Korea's Independence Day (August 15th) what better way to spend it than at the War Memorial of Korea!

The War Memorial of Korea

I would have taken off for Pyeongchang with Nate and some of the Korean Teachers this weekend however I have a 5 vs. 5 soccer tournament tomorrow that I didn't want to pass up as I only have another couple of weekends left to play. So, with no work on Friday I decided to wrap up my Seoul tourism adventures at one of the last remaining spots I had yet to see.

The War Memorial Museum is aptly located adjacent to the the US Yongsan Military Base and across the street from the National Defense Headquarters (or National Security, or Homeland Defense, or something like that). From Samgakji Station, it's only a quarter mile to the museum grounds but on the short walk I must have passed dozens of uniformed officers from different services, both Korean and American. Kinda makes the whole thing seem, well, relevant.

Flowered barricade outside the Defense Building

Even though I have seen the museum before, from the comfort of a passing bus, the enormity of the structure blew me away as I entered the grounds. The massive building appears even more impending as it is set far back from the street, allowing for an enormous courtyard. Turns out, this courtyard, if you can call it that, was by far my favorite part of the whole experience.

Now that's a museum!

The outdoor exhibition area is filled not simply with green space but rather with a mass of old war equipment. Sprinkled, or more accurately, packed about the grounds are war artifacts ranging from wheeled howitzers to tanks and even a couple dozen planes. The weaponry goes on and on for what seems like an eternity with each machine larger and most impressive than the next. For anyone interested in war relics, well this would be pretty darn close to heaven!

Guns and Rockets and Missiles, Oh My!

Oooo tank tank tank tank tank!

War Memorial from under the wing of a B52 bomber

Inside a C-46 "Commando" Transport plane

Gunnin' for it!

By land, air or sea

Upon entering the museum grounds, it would be impossible not to notice the looming statue of two Korean soldiers stop a domed structure. This Statue of Brothers is apparently representative of the Korean war as we see a larger South Korean soldier embracing his younger North Korean brother....hmmm.

The Statue of Brothers

Big guns, Big people, Big buildings!

The reflecting pool looked like a nice place to take a dip and cool off as temperatures were pushing the mid 30's. I'm pretty sure the little girl in the picture was thinking the same thing that I was, but neither of us were brave enough to take the plunge. . .despite my encouraging her!

Just jump in already!

Centered in front of the museum entrance, about 200 yards closer to the street is the Korean War Monument. The symbolism is up to you do derive but the bronze statues of soldiers that surround it is actually rather moving.

The Korean War Monument

After the long hike up to the museum itself I took a rest to enjoy the scenery and the shade!

The War Memorial Peace Plaza

The Defense Headquarters (or whatever) from the War Memorial

Inside the long hallways that extend from either end of the museums wings are tall black plaques in which the names of Korean soldiers lost in battle are engraved.

The Monuments of Killed in Action

Once I finally made it inside I was happy to pay the nominal admission fee of only 3,000 though I can't say I would have paid anymore as I simply was not in the mood to be inside all day. To be honest, this three story structure is more than impressive and everything is incredibly well displayed in a number of languages. Sure, English is overlooked on some of the displays but any non-Korean speaker could easily whittle away an entire day if they cared to read all the available information. Me, well, I took the fly by tour!

The first few exhibition halls are dedicated to the Korean War only. Later rooms follow Korea's involvement in other worldly military conflicts and downstairs one can even study the entire history of warfare on the Korean peninsula! After about an hour of Korean War stuff the rest was simply too much to handle for me. I'm all for learning and reading about history but I'd prefer to do it in book format from the comfort of a nice chair in underneath the sun. The museum's skylights are great and all but really, who wants to spend their day off in a giant institutional building? Not me!

I managed to 'see' all of the displays but that's about it as I charged forth with a mission to make it outside before the sun started tipping too far down towards the downtown skyline. A few things in the museum did manage to grab my attention and hold me for an extra second which are displayed below. One that is not in the Combat Experience Room which I would recommend skipping unless you have a passion for uncomfortably loud noises and flashing lights in confined space. Not my thing, unless it's under the guise of live music.

A news clipping from the North Korean propaganda section that reads...

She's Happy. . .

because her husband is a POW--and no longer risking his life in the front lines. SHE KNOWS that he will go back to join her as soon as the armistice is singed. What About You? You may be killed or maimed any minute. That's why your mother, your wife or your sweetheart don't know a moment's peace from worry about you. Why don't you ease their minds. Why don't you make sure that you too will go home.

THINK IT OVER! RIGHT NOW!

The Koreans and Chinese are lenient to their prisoners. They guarantee you life, security and freedom from maltreatment.

I'm not quite sure what's going on here but are they asking American soldiers to turn themselves over as prisoners?

The Teardrop made of retired dog tags representing UN soldiers lost

A kids day event beneath the indoor airplane and parachute exhibit. . .odd

Well, now you know about as much as I do about Korea's wartime history! I know, I know, I'm a terrible pupil, an ever worse tourist and even worse Seoulite but come on, it was my day off and it's beautiful outside! I had wandering to do and a big plate of Pad Thai in Itaewon was calling my name. Plus, Nate and the Korean Teachers are off somewhere rafting, swimming and hopefully not getting eaten by great white sharks that have been washing up on Korea's beaches lately!

Off to bed early tonight as I have to be across the city (70 minute subway ride) by 10am tomorrow for the tourney. I believe we're guaranteed a three game minimum so even if we get rocked (our bracket is referred to as 'Hell Division' and I don't think it's because of us) I'll still get a good couple of hours in under the hot hot sun! More soccer on Sunday then back to work for my final full week of 'teaching.'

Thanks for staying tuned and sorry about falling off but it's crunch time over here and, come on, there's gotta be better stuff to read out there anyways!

Goodbye from the War Memorial!