Trying to minimize our subway transfers we got off Line 1 at Jongno3-ga Station a few stops short of our intended destination Anguk. Having yet to be in this area during daylight hours, we took a few moments to wander around and snap photos of the all too interesting Jogno Tower and less than enthralling Bosingak, where the city's new years bell is kept.
Bosingak
Jogno Tower
With the sound of drumming in our ears, we were foolish enough to believe that our blind choice of subway stations led us directly to the celebration that we were looking for. We followed the noise to the banks of the recently uncovered Cheonggyecheon Stream where a circle of drummers, adorned in traditional Korean dress, were all banging away on different percussion instruments. After snapping a pair of touristy pictures (meaning we really didn't know what we were photographing but felt like we should) we quickly bolted down stream away from the clamor! 
Traditional Dummers
As it appeared that the road running along Cheonggyechon had been blocked off, we further incorrectly assumed that whatever festival we were looking for must be just around the next bend. We stopped a few, unlucky, passerbys in an attempt to gain some sort of directional insight, but gained none. Curiously however one man was kind and honest enough to actually say that he could not help us rather than point aimlessly in any which direction as many Koreans seem to do when flustered! 
Cheonggyecheon Stream
After no more than five minutes of wandering we happened upon a small information booth at the stream's edge. Perfect! Inside we were ever luckier yet that the one worker was sitting behind the English, and not Japanese, sign! I showed her our Rosetta Stone of directions and after a confused moment she whipped out a map and pointed us in the right direction. As I had somewhat expected, we were wandering in the wrong direction! However, from our current location we needed to simply wander north, down the bustling Insadong-gil, past Gyeongbokgung Palace and we would certainly find ourselves in the heart of Samcheong-dong. So, we set off on foot!
While wandering through Insadong seemed like a fantastic idea to kinda of get us in the mood to score some culture points, it turned out to nearly double the time of our already extended journey. As I had either overlooked or forgotten, the streets of Insadong are packed, jam packed! If one needed to get through the crowds quickly for some reason, it simply would not be possible unless they had Andre the Giant at their sides to part the sea of humans for them. So, slowly, and impatiently, Nate and I trudged along making only the slightest of progress as we watched the sun threaten to slip behind the downtown skyline. 
Making faces in a bamboo forest along Insadong-gil
About halfway down the long corridor, we came across a plaza emanating the sounds of an, wait, all brass band!? No way! This I had to see! Sure enough, stepping into the crowded square (the same one where I took the pictures of the recycled art before) we were greeted by a six piece brass band blowing away, unfortunately for the drummer he was stuck behind the car exhibit. Wait, what? Oh yeah, it appears as if the whole event was for an unveiling of some new car model. Quite the interesting way to garish attention for your product!
Brass Banding It
Anyways, no sooner had I stepped into the plaza and raised my camera for a snapshot did the band suddenly break down into "Oh When the Saints." Now I don't know what forces you believe in but there's something about the power of Nola that always finds a way to let you know she's still with you, no matter where you are in the world, whether it be fleur-de-lis guarding Turkish mosques, a brass band funeral in Ghana or the blowin' of "Oh When the Saints" on a back alley in Korea! Enjoy!
For an encore, the group went on to play a very (un)popular Village People number at which point I decided it best for our sanity to take off in the other direction! We finally escape the confines of Insadong and were back out on the open road where we hustled down to the next intersection to cross over a street running along the eastern edge of Gyeongbokgung Palace. The hustling was entirely unnecessary. We waited at this single light for what had to have been almost ten minutes. No, we weren't stupid and it wasn't a 'go when you're brave enough' affair, that's simply how long it took the light to change in our favor at this four way intersection of two eight lane 'highways.' We did eventually get across the street only to be disheartened by the crowd of literally hundreds crossing the opposite way. . .that's never a good sign when you're going to an event! 
The Fabeled Intersection
Not ones to give up on our adventures until we really need to give up, we continued walking towards, or at least in the general direction of this supposed Samcheong-dong Park. The road alongside Gyeongbokgung looked absolutely amazing as all the trees lining the street had begun to glow in the deep yellow of an almost set sun. However, to our right, on the other side of the street, the skyline was filled with a large, ugly, run down government looking building guarded with some uninteresting iron work and a high electric fence. Not sure exactly what this was but it certainly didn't boost the overall attractiveness of the area.
Across the street from Gyeongbokgung
Sunset over Gyeongbokgung Entrance
Eventually we were forced to veer off to the right as the road we were walking along ended at a guard post that didn't look to welcoming. We turned on to what I guess is known as the Samcheongdong Walkway, and continued onwards. Now this newly discovered (at least by us) walkway was quite the pleasant surprise, offering an experience that was truly a world apart from the high rise laden Seoul we have grown so accustomed to. Intimate and architecturally captivating storefronts lined every side of the walkway and seemed to come in only three varieties. 
At first there were mostly modern art galleries, often composed of only one room and just large enough to house a desk along with the single exhibit (was was sometimes indistinguishable from other previously made smudges on the walls). As the galleries thinned, the trendy, overpriced cafes became more prevalent with a sprinkling of chic boutiques selling everything from, well, really just shoes, hats and jewelry! Even while exuding an uber-trendy and ultra-chic aura, Samcheongdong managed to retain a truly authentic, down to earth atmosphere; much more akin to Magazine St. in my beloved New Orleans than anywhere comparable in New York or L.A.
Fall colors along Samcheongdong Walkway
To add to the artistic experience, everyone and their mother traveled with a clunky, yet modern digital SLR hanging from their neck that they used to shoot a series of all too cliche photos of women standing in doorways and dying flowers wrapped around rusted iron work. It was cute. . .but almost in that kitten in a hat type of way. . .yeah.
While we were both starving, Nate and I decided to plug onwards, hoping to find our coveted festival before the last rays of natural light disappeared over the turning trees. We had already lost the sun and the sky was darkening quickly. At the top of another hill, somewhat removed from the commercial strip below, we ducked into a corner store to split a litre of Purple Jazz Juice; a mixture of all the dark berries' juices. . . mmmmmm! This particular convenience store was not at GS nor 7/11 but rather a small store front attached to living quarters of about the same size. The reason I know this is that the 'clerk', if you will, sat on the floor just inside an indoor doorway in what looked like the floor of his kitchen, while Nate and I were left unbothered to wander the single aisle of snacks.
On my way out, I turned around suddenly thinking that this kind man might be symbolize our last hope of finding Samcheongdong Park and we seemed to have come to the end of the road. I showed him our 'map' and smiled, indicating that the park was simply around the corner and up the hill another 100 meters! No way! We thanked him and took off, partially refueled by Purple Jazz. Sure enough, just up the hill we came to the entrance of a public park which people were retreating out of by the dozens. Stepping inside it was evident that we were certainly too late for whatever festival had occurred earlier in the day. Not willing to turn around just yet however we thought it best to wander the park for a bit in search of something, anything 'worthwhile.'
Not far inside we spotted a sign indicating the way to 'prospect point,' now that sounded like a worth goal! We began headed upwards following a series of smoothed dirt paths alternating with steps made of logs. As we climbed, we were soon engrossed in a fiery surrounding as the leaves both above and below us turned a deep crimson, accentuated by the last glimmer of daylight.
Samcheongdong Park
We ascended gradually winding back and forth as the path grew steeper and steps taller. Every 100 meters we were reminded of the distance to the point yet each marker grew increasingly distant from the previous one! Finally, just as the last ray of light fell over the horizon, we made it to long and narrow path running along what I believe is the Old Fortress Wall of Seoul. Here, the past sharply contrasted with the present as we were able to make out a relatively modern looking bunker/outpost hidden behind a row of fences on the peak of a hill along which the fortress wall runs. Only a few dozen meters ahead we arrived at a wooden plateau set into a flat granite face, Prospect Point, on which a pair of cameramen had taken up seats, inevitably capturing the night sky in some appropriately over-artistic manner.
Prospect Point at Night
We rested at the Point just long enough for our bodies, dripping in sweat, to dry off to a shivering chill. . .at which point we decided we had better start making our way back down. Now I don't know what rules 'real' climbers go by, but I'm pretty sure that hiking at night, without any source of light falls into the realm of stupid! Yet this is what we had to do, having no alternative but to stay at Prospect Point until dawn! We slowly and carefully felt our way back down the path and managed to avoid any major injuries although I did reaggravate my left knee that I injured one Sunday a while back and have yet to allow to fully heal as I amble on through the second half of SSFL's fall season. 
Seoul at night looking towards Namsan Hill/Tower
Back down on the safety of flat land we decided that we had scored enough cultural points for the day and that a good, hearty, non-Korean dinner was in store. Thus, we rang Cleo, who had expressed interest in meeting us in Itaewon that night, and told her to get moving, we were ready to eat. Well, apparently young females around the world operate on the same 'as soon as I'm ready' schedule, which is way, way longer than you would ever intentionally wait. Nevertheless, Nate and I fended off the urge to just plop down in a ritzy cafe after checking out one of the absurdly overpriced and unimpressive menus given to us by a disdainful (was he French) waiter.
Thus, we slowly made our way back to the Anguk Station where we took Line 3 to 6 and hopped off at Itaewon, hours before Cleo would eventually arrive with her friend, Ji-Young. To kill the time, and subdue our hunger, we darted into an Iranian kebab house where we snacked and rested on their perfectly plush couches. Finally, hours after descending Prospect Point, we met Cleo and Ji-Young in front of the Hamilton Hotel where we agreed to eat anything so long as they decided. Having both spent time in Europe they decided to try out a Bulgarian restaurant at the top of the hill behind the Hamilton. Having never tried, nor even really heard of, Bulgarian food, Nate and I agreed to give it a whirl.
While it certainly was a pleasant surprise to start a meal with french bread and butter, versus kimchi and radish, my meat lasagna was substantially less than substantial. . . .to say the least! The lasagna bolognese itself was fantastic! Oh how I had been craving thick wide noodles soaked in marinara and held together firmly by layers of melted cheese. However the dish that it was served it was notably smaller than the bowl that I eat my cereal out of in the morning. . .thus, I left dinner far from satisfied!
No worries, on our way back down the hill we passed by a dejected looking chef sitting on the curb outside. Truly curious, I asked him where the eating was good and he flamboyantly sprung to life, guiding us into a a small pastry shop down a small side alley. Here we relaxed for a while while sharing a pecan and chocolate cream pie. Nate was enticed into a 'warm gooey' chocolate pecan cookie that was apparently 'fresh out of the oven,' though it had grown crisp by the time it made it to our table and was still apparently 'fresh out of the oven' as we left almost half an hour later! Not the best sweets I've ever had in the world but you gotta admit, the guy was a great salesman!
We capped off the night wandering from Woodstock, where an incredibly interesting trio was replaced by a horrific sounding one that literally drove me out of the venue holding my ears. Swinging by Stompers, where I had read about a battle of the bands, we decided to not stay long as the place was literally overflowing with young musicians grasping their instruments for dear life trying to stand their ground and get in close to the stage. Finally, we made it to a back alley where we located the once elusive Wolfhound and plopped down, exhausted on a comfy pub-like bench. We spent the next few hours battling sleep while watching all sort of rugby and soccer matches, cheering along the Irish patrons in the pub while jeering the Canadians! Ahh, how fun it is to be American abroad sometimes!
V for Victory as we finally found the elusive Wolfhound!
While we never did find out traditional festival that we set out for, I'd say we managed to rack up more than enough culture points as we wandered from Cheonggyecheon, through Insadong, along Gyeongbokgugn, through Samcheondong, up to Prospect Point, back down to Woodstock and across the pond to a quaint Irish Pub, the Wolfhound! And we did this all while remaining in the confines of downtown Seoul. . .what an interesting city this is!
1 comment:
nice brass band choreography!
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