A Real Twofer!

This weekend Nate and I decided that Steve was long over due for his first hike in Korea, having yet to experience the colorful eccentricity of Seoul's weekend warriors. We also decided, with some prodding from Steve, that the best way to prepare for our Saturday hike would be to load up on some nice lean protein. Thus, Friday night, accompanied by Debbie, a friend of ours who is well known to Junggye foreign teachers as the 'the Bagel Lady,' we headed out to the local Japanese restaurant to settle into a sumptuous meal of all you can eat tuna sashimi. . .

Dinnertime!

We were greeted upon arrival by the friendly proprietor and the always amicable chef who quickly recognized Nate and I from the few previous times we have visited. As ordering is always somewhat of a problem for us, it sure was nice to have Debbie along as she can rattle off both Korean and Japanese with ease. A definite bonus when dining at a Japanese restaurant in Korea.

As always, dinner was delicious. The meal begins with a small bowl of miso soup accompanied by a warm tuna chowder that reminds me of a creamy Campbell's soup. The table begins to grow cluttered as a plate of kimchi, unfamiliar when white in color, is brought to the table along with a giant steamed radish that resembled a roasted sweet potato more than anything. As an added bonus, for we haven't ever had this dish before, the chef graciously offered us a steaming bowl of tuna heads. Not wanting to turn anything down I tried to dig in and find something edible but my efforts were simply in vain. I wasn't able to scrounge any meat out of this fishy dish but I was able to identify a jawbone at least.

Just when we started to grow anxious, out came the long awaited main course. A beautiful panoply of fresh, raw, tuna. Always wanting to please, the chef, or perhaps surgeon is a more appropriate word, offered us each a piece of fish that stood out from the others due to its thick and incredibly dark, almost black, meat. He identified this as the cheek of the tuna and insisted that we start our meal off on the right foot by consuming this delicacy first. Mmmm mmmm!

While we were munching our way through the sashimi plate, more food continued to arrive at our already over crowded table. A plate of a creamed corn was placed between Nate and I while Debbie and Steve were graced with a circular chunk of smoked tuna tail. While the corn dish was somewhat familiar, the tuna tail is a rather unique yet utterly delectable treat!

Just when we had thought that we couldn't handle any more food either on our table or in our stomachs, Dr. Chef decided to regale us with a plate of salmon and whitefish sushi. We easily made room for this new arrival by ditching the soup cups and red radish that no one seemed to be picking at. This latest dish was accompanied by a heaping mound of freshly ground wasabi as our conversation had only just before turned to the lackluster green lump that was first served with the sashimi. Now we had the real stuff to deal with and boy, did it do the trick!

The man of the hour!

As we began closing in on the last few pieces of fish, I noticed MacChefinstein retreat behind the counter where his hands appeared to be moving at a feverish rate. Even so, his austere deportment would never hint at him doing any sort of frantic work. Again, leaning back in contentment was the only signal he needed to barrage us with more epicurean goodies. This time around we were treated to the cream of the crop as the newest arrivals literally shone above all the others. This final plate of prime tuna cuts (as recognized by its tenderness and darker color) was centered around a florid arrangement of our favorite fish and decorated with none other than gold flakes. A truly sybaritic display! Despite having long passed the point of satisfaction, I eagerly dove in to this unique treat, not of course before snapping a few pictures to share with the likes of you, dear reader!

Le Golden Tuna!

While I presumed that this wonderful display would certainly be our last course, I had obviously forgotten about the exotic bowl of tuna entrails served as desert. Without alerting Steve to the identity of these peculiar looking nibblets, he bravely dug in. I too gave the intestines a shot, although this time I steered clear of the little sacs that pop saltwater into your mouth when you bit down on them. This is the second time we have tried to identify them and still have not been able to. Steve, good for him, was actually able to manage to get one down the hatch. A feat that neither Mr. Kochanski nor I were able to accomplish. Hilarity ensued however when were then informed that they are not meant to be consumed but rather just popped and then spit back out. Oops, what doesn't kill you only makes you stronger. . .right!?

To top off our bowl of entrails were each given a shot of a clear yet extremely viscous liquid. While Debbie refused hers, I tried to do the same but to no avail. Eventually, Nate, Steve and I tipped back, and managed to keep down this 'juice' from the inside of a tuna's eyeball. Mmmm, you haven't lived till you've drank eye juice!

The rest of the fish. . .

At that point we decided it best to clear out before were were bombarded with any more parts of the fish that we weren't quite ready to deal with. We packed up and split the meal, going Dutch, to the surprise, and relief of our Korean accompaniment, Debbie. This is because if we were dining traditionally, as the oldest, and the only Korean of the bunch, she would essentially be bound by social prescription to picking up the tab. Good things we're all nice guys!

After dinner it was off to Culture Street to try and unwind and walk off a bit of our overstuffing. Even so, by the time we arrived, most everything was winding down and thus we headed back home. Not before having to deal with a gang of rowdy foreigners whom we seem prone to run into whenever swinging through Nowon. We managed to make it in to bed just before the sun rose (over the high rises at least), still planning on setting out early in to the mountains. Luckily, having woken up early all week, I was still able to roll out of bed before noon at which point we began dressing for the day's adventures on the mountain. Oh, and what an adventure it would turn out to be!

It can't be bedtime yet!

Although I earlier sent Steve a message suggesting he bring adequate climbing footwear up to Junggye, he somehow overlooked this presage and turned up with only a pair of black dress shoes. Whether on purpose or not, I refused to let this slight setback get in the way of our day on the hill and was quick to lend him my tennies that we were able to get snug enough with a thick pair of SmartWool hikers. I found it slightly humorous that between the two of us, both donning my shoes, Steve got the much better fit as I still haven't found a way to shrink my size 11 hikers down to the 10 they should be! Oops, as I've sworn, no more ordering shoes online!

We met Nate downstairs and headed off towards the base of Bulamsan where we began to discuss strategy. My initial plan had been to conquer Suraksan, a local peak that is adjacent to Bulamsan that neither Nate nor I had yet ventured up. From our eighth story perch atop DYB, Mt. Surak appeared to be no more than a short jaunt from the base of Bulam and thus totally accessible by foot. We decided to head up the foot of Bulam at our primary point of entry and then make a sort of traverse over to Surak where we would eventually top out at the peak, 637m above.

Ready to Go!

Only a short way into our hike, we paused to take a look at a posted map of the twin peaks. It was then that we realized we had quite a ways to go before even reaching Surak proper as the simple traverse we had imagined actually required us getting up almost to the top of Bulam before following the only horizontal path northwest towards our desired peak. It was here where we began contemplating our different options. Sure, the trek looked manageable but it would certainly be a round about route and far from an easy, direct shot.

Our only other options however were returning to street level and either walking a mile or so through Junggyedong to Sanggyedong or simply catching a cab. The later sounded appealing though as I pointed out, we had no clue where we wanted to go other than 'Suraksan' which seemed like somewhat of a ridiculous request to make to a taxi driver, especially as we could see the mountain from where we stood, not to mention being underdressed and undersupplied for the occasion. The later observation here would later come back to bite us in our weary butts!

Deciding that we didn't want to risk the embarrassment of returning to the street, we figured we had set out early enough where a long trek would be totally manageable before sundown. As we would soon learn, timing was far from our biggest problem. Though none of us took the time to thoroughly map out our route, we had a good enough idea of what we had to do and that was go up, way up, then hang a left. While making our way up a nice paved path (where was this the last time we were forced to try scrambling up an unmanageable face?), Nate began to entertain the idea of simply climbing Bulamsan again. I negated this suggestion pointing to the fact that we've done it a decent number of times (three for me, four for Nate, one for Lars!) and that I had been planning on getting Surak out of the way all week.

As soon as I had shot the idea down, Nate quickly defended himself by clarifying that he didn't mean we should climb only Bulam but rather summit there first and then follow the high ridgeline we saw on the map all the way over to Surak. The idea of climbing two mountains in one afternoon sounded both enticing and absurd but it gained momentum with me when Nate officially designated the feat as our first 'twofer.' While I'm sure he'd love to claim responsibility for penning such catchy nomenclature, this honor is unfortunately reserved for the renowned American mountaineer, Ed Viesturs, whose book Nate had recently finished and even more recently lent to me (thanks!). Even so, with the auspicious use of a 'cool' mountaineering term, how could either Steve or I turn down the idea. We soon agreed, Steve grunting in acknowledgement of us making a decision more than recognizing the plan, and continued upward, saving our traverse for once we had already topped out on Bulam.

Mountain Flora

Setting out at noon on what was likely the hottest day of summer yet didn't do much for our comfort factor on the mountain. Though the better part of the lower path is shaded by tree growth, this also blocks any and all breeze from the trail which left us hiking through a virtual sauna. The humidity, which was easily around 90%, didn't help either! Only a few hundred meters in to the climb we had all thoroughly soaked through our shirts and I could feel the sweat from my back pooling at the bottom of my cute little bright orange DYB backpack. It certainly didn't help that both Nate and Steve were stuck in cotton t-shirts, widely regarded in both camping and traveling circles as 'death fabric' for its ability to absorb then retain water, adding weight and tempting hypothermia. Nate at least had the excuse of losing his only water wicking t-shirt on the DYB 'camping trip' while Steve was stuck in his undershirt from the night before. Sure, in retrospect I could have lent him a lightweight soccer jersey but you just don't think about that type of stuff at ten in the morning now do ya?!

My Ridiculously Good Looking Climbing Gear!

(My bandanna is from Tsukiji Fish Market, Tokyo, Japan, courtesy of Nathan Kochanski)

Taking yet a different route up the mountain (we've yet to ever go the same way twice), we were relieved to eventually come to a long set of wooden stairs. Though neither Nate nor I had ever climbed them, we both immediately recognized it as a sort of shortcut (despite what Viesturs says) to the top. As we predicted, only a few minutes later we shot out just under the giant boulders that mark the beginning of the final push up Bulamsan. This staired route had circumvented the first mini peak that we normally have to climb up and over in order to get to Bulamsan proper. In doing so, we had managed to save a heap of time and climbing but also missed the first rest area meaning we were still without water an hour in to our climb. As dehydrated as the three of us already were, we managed to push forward enthusiastically, knowing that just at the foot of the boulders there would be another small tent to grab a drink. Luckily, we were correct.

We stopped to have a drink in the shade and as we each downed a bottle or more of water I saw the misgiving in Steve's eyes slowly fade away. While we had promised him that there was in fact water on the mountain, neither of us had revealed that it was only available just under the summit. Oops, our fault!

Hauling Himself

Turning to tackle the final few hundred meters, we were reminded of the massive makeover that had been taking place last time we were on the mountain when Laura visited. Back in early May, we were surprised to see the skeleton of a stairway leading up towards the summit of our local peak. By late June, this skeleton had materialized into a full blown cakewalk right up to the last five meters of mountain. Not willing to give in to this newfangled climbing assistant, Nate led us up and over our usual route which involved clambering under the stairway where others easily cruised on ahead. Though the squeeze was tight, all three of us managed to get up to the top without having to use the unsightly stairway. (We wrote off the one we used earlier on in our climb as it was a new route for us and seemingly the only way up from that point.)

Bulamsan? No Problem!

Summit Team 1

It only took a quick glance to the north for my doubts to reemerge about pulling off a 'twofer.' Though due more to haze than distance, the top of Suraksan, a half mile or so away, loomed impending, daring us to go through with our somewhat reckless plan. We stayed on Bulam only long enough to snap a couple of pictures before my cotton soaked partners began to get a bit chilly. . .silly boys! In order to celebrate our first victory, we headed off the north side of the mountain towards Checkpoint Charlie where we refueled a bit on anchovies and garlic shoots while introducing Steve to the mountain tradition of a good ole' makgeolli stop.

After catching our breath and wetting our lips, we headed out a new path towards the back of our usual stop. Leaving Bulam at 508m, our hope was to find a direct line to Surak along a ridge that stayed high enough for us to avoid having to completely reclimb the mountain to Surak's peak, only a 130m above where we set off from. It didn't take long for us to realize that we were headed downhill and there was nothing we could do about it.

Scrambling Down

Even so, the trail running along the ridgeline offered some spectacular views, or at least, would have if the air wasn't so filled with whatever the heck it's filled with. (I've heard Koreans refer to this as 'cloudy' which would be about as silly as calling a smoky bar room 'foggy.') It was time to put on the sunnies as the trees has been almost entirely cleared along this long narrow path. Coming up through a lush green forest, it was strange to see this dry barren landscape that seemed to have been intentionally made as Steve pointed out a number of the trees looked as if they had been sawed down. There was no development apparent and even less of a reason that one would consider such an absurd idea. This left the three of us pondering who would have possibly undertaken such a destructive, and seemingly futile task.

Just Foolin'

Down we went and before long, both Bulam and Surak has disappeared from our sights as we were once again surrounded by dense forest. Not long after retreating under the trees, we began to hear the noise of a busy road below us. This is never a good sign when one is hoping to stay high on a mountain trail!

We shot out of the forest at a bridge that overlooked the entrance to a Korean military base. Well, that helps explain the numerous bunkers we ran into along the way. While Nate and I have both had our fill of playing around in these, it was Steve's turn to jump in and pretend to shoot at invaders with a broken stick. If only we had such fortifications to play with in Whitehills Woods!

While crossing the deteriorating bridge above a narrow two lane highway, Nate noted a sign pointing southwards that read 'Seoul.' Off to our right another marker welcomed drivers to Gyeongi Province. True to the markings on the map, we were officially straddling the line between Seoul and, well, not-Seoul.

On the other side of the bridge, we were greeted by a high fence covered in barbed wire and pocketed with dozens of painted stones. These stones, as we know from a visit to the DMZ, are used as signifiers, alerting patrols to tampering or potential weak spots in the barriers. Also attached to this long, seemingly never ending fence, were a number of small black pop cans that were wired to the inside of the fence. Despite studying these as we walked, I couldn't figure out what purpose they served. Take a look at the picture, any ideas?!

Fenced In

The path wound on forever, and we made pretty good time as the grade was nothing too intense. While this was comforting at the time, it continued to resonate with me that whatever vertical we didn't climb now, we'd only have to tackle later when we were certain to be much more exhausted then we already were. Bunkers, trenches and guardposts continued dot our path as the border to the military base seemed to stretch on for an eternity. Eventually we passed through an open door in a barbed wire fence, Nate going first to check for enemy fire, after which the fortifications ceased.

By this point we had long since drained the last of our water from Bulam and were again hankering for a drink. Our rests became more numerous as Nate would lunge ahead only to stop and catch a breath while I tried to maintain a relatively even pace and keep Steve in sights as he struggled upwards, cursing us for leading him on such a grueling initiatory expedition sans supplies.

Bulam in the background. . .

Our second climb of the day seemed endless yet I vowed to keep an indefatigable mindset, despite my body telling me otherwise. When he could catch his breath, Steve would scathe us for promising water en route when clearly there was none. This seemed odd to both Nate and I as the refueling stations are somewhat numerous on Bulamsan. Even so, we chalked it up to the backdoor route we were taking and continued to promise that there would be respite ahead.

Every few hundred yards a turn off invited us to stop and enjoy a beautiful view looking south out over Nowongu and Bulamsan. However, after pausing at the first of these reststops, none of us again showed interest in sightseeing as we were focused on much more tangible goals, like water.

Looking out towards Bulamsan

I have no idea how long it took for us to get anywhere but it wasn't quick and when we got wherever we were going, we were still far from where we wanted to be. Along the way we passed over the top of two misleading peaks that hinted at being the end of our journey. Lucky for us, these weren't our final destination as neither offered anything to drink.

Eventually, we began to pass people on the path going the opposite way. This was a much needed sign of relief as we had been climbing for hours without seeing, well, anybody for the most part. Only a few couples perched on rocks who seemed to be enjoying the snacks that they intelligently toted with themselves up the mountain.

In passing one of these groups I grew excited, pointing out to Nate that one of the hikers was munching on an empty popsicle stick. Willing to bet that they hadn't climbed the mountain carrying this little piece of wood, it seemed to presage an impending ice cream vendor. Indeed, only a few minutes later we passed another troupe, this time carrying full popsicles that still were covered in frost. I leaped into the air and let out a great 'Asa!' bolting forward to the cheery vendor who stood alongside a wooded path with nothing other than a giant backpack-box or popsicles and a couple empty bottles of makgeolli.

Although it wasn't water, a melon popsicle goes a long way when you're almost entirely dehydrated and hiking on an empty stomach. Oh yeah, we might've forgotten to eat anything before taking off in the morning but, at the time, still weighed down with tuna, it didn't seem to be a big deal. Bad decision number two.

A Rocky Road

Devouring our popsicles we hastened our pace knowing that the summit must be near. We eventually did catch sight of two looming peaks though Nate ominously commented that he hoped it wasn't the second one we were aiming for. A little ways onward we were again excited to find a large group of people scattered about amongst a number of makgeolli bottles. Usually this indicates a rest area with water but unfortunately, as we soon found out, they offered only this sweet rice wine. Nevertheless, liquid is liquid when you've stop sweating in 90 degree heat because you've literally fun out of fluid! So, we quickly pounded down a bottle between the three of us, not even bothering to dig into the mandatory side dishes. A nearby climber apparently noted our lack of snacking and came over to offer some fresh fruit he had cut up in his bag. Mmmm, this was a welcome treat that, although delicious, did little to satisfy my cravings.

We didn't linger long at this stop either and pushed upwards through ever more rocky terrain. At one point, we made a short traverse around a flat sloping rock upon which we could see a waving flag. To us, this flag symbolized the eminent summit yet, once round the corner, we found a sign pointing us yet further along the trail. Just as Nate has guessed, we were headed for the second peak.

Putting in a long, long first day!

Finally we came to the base of a few enormous rock slabs on which happy parties were making a haphazard descent, obviously excited to be heading down from the top. Scrambling up this final face I was elated to find a snack stand in the most unlikely of places, at the very summit of Mt. Surak. I ordered up a pair of waters for Nate and I just as he came in to view. We held off on getting Steve one so as not to let it warm up before he arrived, which yes, he did eventually do only a minute or so behind. After putting down two waters and two Pocari Sweats he admitted that not turning around, as he had earlier proposed to do, was the better decision. Although it might have seemed selfish to push him onwards, both Nate and I realized that the closest water, which is what we all dearly needed, was definitely upwards, and not down into some random gully.

At 637m on Suraksan Summit! Number two for the day!

After rehydrating as best as our tightened stomachs would allow, we all agreed that it was well past time to get the heck outta the woods and on to solid ground. With no real idea where we were or how to get out we did what any desperately tired hikers would do, headed down! We eventually came to a sign pointing towards Nowon-Gol, which, to us, sounded good enough. No clue how long it took us to get down but it was a mere fraction of the time we spent covering the same distance on pitched, or even flat ground as we literally bounded down the mountain, Nate at the lead.

Exhausted

Only a few wrong turns later we found ourselves at the bottom of Nowon Gully (which must be what Gol means in Korean, only a guess here). At this small rest area we were able to fill our empty bottles with 'fresh' spring water pouring from a mountainside tap. No clue as to the true hazard of drinking this stuff but a good number of the locals do and usually that's a pretty safe bet. None of us are sick, yet!

We shot out of the mountain and celebrated our safe arrival on solid ground by parking our butts in the nearest chairs we could find, just outside a local store which was obviously converted to a hikers hangout on the weekends. It didn't take long before we were approached by the drunk old men at the neighboring table who insisted on buying us makgeolli and then snacks, seeing that we didn't have any dried fish on our table. A total faux pax in the world of Korean drinking.

Nate was attacked by this larger than life moth which our friendly neighbor informed us is an 'intoxicating' species. Whether he meant poisonous or exhilarating, we'll likely never know!

Walking through Nowon Gol I was excited to see a number of mountaineering stores, just the place I've been looking to stop in on to research backpacks for my imminent journey throughout SEAsia. I'll let you know how the search goes!

As the sun began heading for the horizon we decided it was well past time to get on back to Doota, change out of our disgusting clothes and head out to a big ole' BBQ dinner. Which, is exactly what we did!

Tan, or dirt. . .take a guess

While they might not be the biggest mountains in Korea, or even Seoul for that matter, we did manage to pull of Nate's audacious suggestion of summiting two peaks in one day. Sure, it's a far cry from 'climbing the world's 14 highest peaks,' but when's the last time you pulled off a real twofer!

Alone at the top. . .

Raid

For the second consecutive day we are being sent home before 10:00pm as the police are coming to 'raid' our academy. According to Korean law, hagwons are not allowed to operate after ten o'clock in the evening. Ours, DYB Choisun Academy, and numerous others show blatant disregard for this statute and stay open much later.

The penalty for being 'caught' is unbeknownst to me but I can't really imagine it being that harsh as nothing in Korea seems to penalized all that seriously. Except of course for making poor grades on mid-term test. However, I don't hesitate to wonder just what would happen if one of the raiding officers took it upon themselves to actually examine one of the numerous schedules posted around the building that clearly evince our illegal hour of operation. . .hmmm.

I have no idea how we know about these 'raids' but I suppose it's good for business that someone is informed ahead of time. Whether this is done intentionally or rather behind close doors, as some suggest, it means only one thing for us FT's. . .going home early!

So, without further ado, I'm outta here!

Happy Weekend!

300 Down!

As you might have guessed from the above title, today marks my 300th day in Korea! This is exciting not only because it's such a pretty round number but because it means that I have (approximately) only 65 days left here in the Hermit Kingdom. In order to honor this momentous event, I figured I owe at least some sort of update. Not having anything extraordinary planned to mark this hallowed day, what you'll find below is simply a concoction of recent, yet unreported events. Bear with me here!

First on the list are the events that transpired this past weekend under the guise of a DYB 'membership training' seminar. Early last week, I was approached by Anna about two issues. The first was that we were to begin an office wide Secret Santa like game, maniddo, where each teacher is supposed to surreptitiously shower another with gifts assistance and praise. Of course, my initial question was how this is supposed to remain a secret as the later two seemingly require some sort of interpersonal interaction. Unable to find anyone willing to answer my question, I quickly gave up on the matter figuring it would be to my maniddos disadvantage if they didn't take the time to explain it to me!

Turns out I was lucky enough to draw Terry which made associating with my maniddo less strenuous as I had imagined it could be had I chosen one of our numerous employees that I simply do not interact with on a daily basis. To get my showering of gifts over with quickly I simply asked Terry to come out for chicken and beer (if you haven't figured it out by know, this a Korean standard, don't ask why, it just is) and insisted on picking up the check. This was not an all together easy feat as she out ranks me in both age and status which, in this Confucian society, means that I am in no way obliged to be covering the tab. Even so, I was able to complete my mini-mission and make it even more convincing by talking the whole time about how I don't know what to do for my maniddo. How mendacious of me, right!?

The second matter of business that Anna addressed us all about on Tuesday was the weekend's upcoming 'membership training' seminar. While few details were disclosed at that time, Anna insisted that it would have three parts, 'dinner,' a 'serious part,' and then lastly the intemperate 'drunken part.' The one thing that was made clear was that sleep would be limited. As exciting as it sounded to get out of Seoul for the weekend, you can imagine how unappealing such an offer is when limited sleeping (usually my favorite weekend activity) is promised along with the company of only coworkers (those that I certainly, no offense, get enough of during the work week).

Come Saturday I was feeling confident about my maniddo responsibilities as I had slipped Terry a movie theater sized box of Skittles (thanks Dad) and a Starbucks gift card (or 'money check' as they refer to them here) during the course of the week. While she questioned me about it once, I quickly denied any knowledge of the gift bearer. As for me, I received a few kinda sticky notes accompanied by a delicious bottle of apple juice, and odd rice drink and on Friday, a package of chocolate covered nuts accompanied by a rather prurient love note. The later 'gift' sent me reeling as the grammatically incorrect ballad read like a veritable Korean translation making me question whether it was a joke or a terribly unrestrained lustful confession. Nevertheless, the letter assured me that my paramour would come forth on Saturday evening. . . now I really had something to look forward too!

After grabbing lunch with Steve in Itaewon, Nate and I headed back towards Junggye to get ready for our 6:00pm departure. Not wanting to miss my final soccer game of the season, I stuffed my backpack full of cleats and uniforms, leaving little room for anything else. I hoped, and was correct, in that it didn't matter. One thing I did bring however was my bathing suit as Terry had called the night before to let Nate and I know that we might go tubing during the 'camping trip.' I asked her if that meant we should bring bathing suits to which she responded 'No, just a change of clothes.'

This is hilariously indicative of Korean's conservative attitudes towards revealing ones body in public. While they (yes, I know this is a generalization but you find a better way to say what I'm trying to say) refuse to expose themselves on a beach or under the warm summer sun, these same people have no problem stripping down and walking around jimjilbangs (saunas/spas) in the buff, sharing showers, baths, and coffee all while completely naked. Yet, try to take your shirt off while tubing on a river and one is instantly made to feel ignominious. Just ask Nate!

What a shocking move!
(Photo courtesy of NMK Studios)

So, with a backpack stuffed with nothing of real use I met up with the teachers just as they were exiting DYB headed for a small shuttle bus that normal whips our students to and fro academy in the evenings. In their matching shirts, I couldn't help but chuckle at the seriousness with which this outing seemed to be taken. Apparently, 'teams' had already be chosen and sides were represented by one of two colored smiley face t's. . .see below for a visual.

Dddd Yy Bb!
(Photo courtesy of NMK Studios)

A two hour cramped bus ride later and we were dumped out into the remote darkness of Pyeonchang. Not only did I later learn that we weren't too far from the ski resort that we had visited over Lunar New Year but that the city is currently trying to put in an official bid for the upcoming Winter Olympics. Not sure where they'd host any of the downhill events but it's Korea, I'm sure they'll find a way!

Loadin' up
(Photo courtesy of NMK Studios)

After unloading all our luggage (or lack there of, most of the Korean teachers brought nothing more than a decent sized purse) into the 'homey' four bedroom cabin, we headed outside to a long picnic table for a very traditional work related dinner. While food and beverage were abound, the main difference was that we did not cook the food directly at our table but rather Joseph (who we were happy to have accompany us on this trip despite no longer working at Junggye) and one of DYB's higher lever managers (who is also apparently our 'branch supervisor') cooked the samgyeopsal over two freestanding charcoal grills. Even so, dinner was delicious and excessive as always.

Joseph and I working hard to get dinner ready!

As everyone began reaching their personal satiety, the focused shifted from dinner to one of two 'serious parts' of the weekend. In this phase of the evening, each person had to stand and covertly describe their maniddo while the others tried to guess who it was. Then the maniddo had to take the stage and praise the work of their personal agent. This continued on for some time as each pair was forced to take a 'love shot' (or two) of soju. The only thing I gained from this experience was the knowledge that my licentious love note was in fact a joke that had nothign to do with my maniddo but rather was planted by Razer to arouse suspicion. This was by far the funniest thing that I have seen a Korean execute that didn't involve self humiliation in some way, shape, or form.

The Spread!

Growing extremely tired of the repetitive nature of these speeches, I was quick to agree to play the guitar for Razer who at one point decided it necessary to belt out a sloppy rendition of much rehearsed and once extremely tight 'DYB Song.' While I too intended on performing a version of the 'Mr. Song' song, I didn't end up getting around to it before we were all forced to go inside at the request of the couple who was staying in an adjacent room attached to our main cabin. I pity their choice of vacation date and location! I can only hope that this cherubic couple was offered some sort of compensation by the pension which presumably derived a rather hefty profit from hosting our over sized and soju suffused group of noisy teachers.

Straight Grillin'

Bringing the meeting inside did not at all put an end to the festivities. Sitting in a large circle on the hard wooden floor, a number of games continued long into the night. By this time, everyone had either forgotten that Nate and I were presented or simply didn't care to take the time and effort to explain what was going on in English. Thus, the two of us were forced to sit there dumbstruck at the ridiculousness that ensued. Some teachers simply keeled over and continued trying to play while others looked to be in such bad shape that they were dragged off to bed. Now by bed I mean the floor as this capacious cabin had only one actual bed that was shared by merely two of the dozen plus teachers. . .mmmm, luxurious living!

Despite not understanding the progression of the games at hand, I was intermittently told to drink for I had unknowingly done something wrong. This I refused to do and simply curled up in a ball on the floor doing my best to eschew the mayhem. No matter how hard I tried, doing so was simply impossible as I was routinely badgered for putting my head down and not participating. . .um, okay, just explain the game to me.

A love shot with his pepoo!

Eventually, sometime around 4:30am, we were told that the nights activities were over and it was time for bed. Settling into the small bedroom that Nate and I had earlier staked as the Native Room, we were quickly kicked out by a larger group of Korean teachers who insisted we were too spend the night in the main room with Joseph and the remnants of the evening's entertainment. As mentioned earlier, our bedding was no more than a Korean yeo, or thick blanket placed on the floor. Not only were Joseph's pre-bedtime antics hilarious, to say the least, but our laughter managed to keep the teachers up for at least a half hour beyond their prescribed bed time which, though it might have pissed them off a bit, I feel somewhat righteous for doing as they would soon subject me to much, much worse. . . .

An enthralling evening, can't you tell. . .

It didn't seem like more than a second had passed before I awoke to Anna romping through the house belting out the shrillest wake up call I have heard since the 250 feral alarm clocks that roused me each morning in Ghana. This tirade continued on for what seemed like an eternity as I heard teachers grumble in to the shower and out to the picnic table for breakfast. Note that I say 'heard' and not 'saw' as I myself simply refused to budge. My weekends are allocated to resting and enjoying myself, not early morning wake up calls and DYB-isms. Thus, with Joseph tucked in tightly against me on the floor, I held my spot, eyes glued shut, all throughout breakfast. I knew I wouldn't be missing much here as I had Terry confirm my suspicion the prior night that there would be no eggs, bacon, toast or pancakes to be seen. Thus, breakfast was not in my game plan!

After everyone had eaten, and I had napped a few precious extra minutes of shuteye, I was eventually lured out of bed by Razer's guitar. Unfortunately, just as I leaned over to take it from him (oooo how I miss the vibrations of a full sized acoustic, though don't get me wrong, I love my Baby Taylor, which incidentally might be going up on the chopping block soon, see Craig's List Korea for details), we were called outside for the second half of the 'serious part,' speeches. I had been delighted when, the night before, we were informed that the speeches section would be delayed until morning due to our late arrival. Unfortunately at that time I didn't fully consider the repercussions of a samgyeopsal party followed by two hour of 'sleep.'

We had been informed of these speeches ahead of time but Anna had (purposely?) been rather vague in explaining the subject matter, merely portending that they were to be very, very serious. Here's what I was able to surmise ahead of time. We were supposed to talk about our past, present and future discussion the different emotions, goals and accomplishments associated with each. We were also to address our personality flaws and fundamentals while relating the whole thing to our experience working at DYB. Apparently, the speeches were supposed to be wrapped up with some grand 'resolution' about our personal role in further DYB Junggye Branch and helping it to reach it's ideal enrollment of 1000 students. (For reference, we currently have somewhere around 500 students and I would consider both the teachers and physical space completely exhausted. . .so good luck Junggye!)

Previously, as I had plenty of down time on the bus ride to the site, I had actually considered attempting to address the majority of these topics. Sure, everything regarding my role in DYB would be fudged and nothing about my personal life would be revealed other than a rosy version of my time in Korea but, at least I had intended on trying. That all changed Sunday morning. For three hours I sat in the chilly morning on a hard, short, uncomfortable wooden bench listening to Korean teachers give tear jerking stories about their failed lives in a language that I understand not a lick of. I was hungry, tired and plain old pissed off at the fact that I was forced to sit through this when earlier in the week Terry had promised me the weekend would be 'in English' to test the other teachers' linguistic perspicacity.

I know it might sound a bit like whining to say 'oh, I had to go on vacation, eat and drink for free all night, then wake up and listen to a bit of seriousness that in all honesty I could zone out,' but believe me, this was worse that torture. To sit there and pretend like what was going on mattered was simply a joke. It didn't take me long to just close my eyes and totter back and forth. This only lasted a few seconds however before the Branch Supervisor, sitting across from me, tossed me a swift kick under the table. After the first few torturous hours I began to let hold of anything I was previously doing to belie my annoyance with the situation. While at one point I simply got up to go fetch some bananas from inside, it was only too soon before I had to reluctantly trod back out to the confession session.

By the time it was my turn to make an announcement I spent no more than five minutes telling my audience about how I enjoy Always Doing Always Moving (did you catch the acronym?). What my point came down to was that I've been in Korea for more than long enough and it was time for me to embark on a new adventure which I am eagerly anticipating. I felt this topic to be most relevant as I was well aware that at the onset of this trip, the goal of a number of teachers was to try and persuade Nate and I both to resign our contracts and stay longer with DYB. While I never have and do not intend to ever do so, I have little problem addressing the issue of my eventual departure though normally I do so with much greater restraint.

Finally, after about three and a half hours of these continuous, indecipherable screeds, Razer stood up and insisted that he must leave as he had certain business, I believe of the ecclesiastical order, to attend to. I too excused myself (or maybe I didn't) and turned to hop in the car with him as I had expressed that my commitment to my soccer team was as long lasting as that to DYB and my last regular season game was not to be missed. Thankfully, Razer agreed to pack me in and less than an hour later I was back in the comfort of my Doota abode. While I say I was lucky to get out of there, after only another hour or so of speeches, the 'serious part' broke down into an afternoon of water sports which I am somewhat disappointed I missed. Though it would have been great fun to go tubing, I wouldn't have traded my last game in for it and am certainly glad that I made it back in time. Thanks a bunch Razer!

As for Sunday afternoon, well, that's already been covered, just check below if you missed it! I tried to vote for myself today (hey, why not?) for defensive player of the year but it turns out you're not allowed to vote for anyone on your own team and you have to click a button verifying that you didn't. I'm all for self predilection but I couldn't bring myself to lie to the cyberworld about voting for a teammate. . .oh well, we'll see if anyone else noticed me other than Sun. I doubt it but, then again, you never know! The results will be disclosed this Saturday at an awards banquet in Gangnam. Apparently, no one from our team showed up last time except for Sun and as of now, no one but him has RSVP'd. I can't say I'm dying to go and mingle with fellow league players, none of whom I know, but I think I'll go just to show support for Sun as he's been such a helpful mentor here. I just hope the buffet is worth 18,000 won!

I know the weekend wasn't that bad and obviously the teachers' nefarious agenda was meant as a sort of solidarity generating technique. The part that I just can't get over is that it did nothing to create such a feeling for anyone but the Korean teachers. Sure, there were a dozen of them and only two of us 'Natives' but then again, we're the one's that they're trying to get to stick around. Or maybe, are they really more worried about everyone else leaving? Now that I think about it, that's likely the much bigger issue for them as the KT's continue to drop like flies. Just last month we lost another newer member, Ja Young who was replaced by the kind but rather eccentric Susan (Ho In). At the rate they're going, the DYB I will say good bye to in a few months time will be almost entirely different from that which I joined last August. I wonder if these sort of seminars help, or hurt their cause. I guess that's not for me to worry about now is it!

Well look at how time flies! And didn't I say just a few thousand words ago that I had nothing substantial to report on this momentous day? Whoulda thunk it'd all just come rushing out like that! As for the other updates I was going to leave you with, well, don't worry about 'em now. I'll save it for sometime when I've got nothing left to rant about. When'll that be? Well, your guess is as good as mine!

Goodnight and Happy 300!

(*While reading, I have recently begun the practice of writing down, and subsequently looking up, words that I am unfamiliar with. Although I've been told to do this for years, I've never actual done so until now. Not surprisingly, I rather enjoy doing so as I feel like it's opening a whole new literary world to me. In the past, I have never minded simply skimming over unrecognizable words whereas now I am eager to learn their meaning which I write down in my school/work notebook. In order to help me better remember these new words, I have tried to slip them into both conversation and most recently, my writing. The above posts contains 10 or so of these 'new words/phrases' borrowed from authors Tom Robbins, Paul Theroux, Kevin Gotham, Jon Krakauer and David Grazian. I don't doubt that the majority of these are used incorrectly as I am hardly familiar with the terms. Even so, I find it's worth the practice and I'll eagerly accept any critique that you might be willing to offer! Can you find all 10!?)

SSFL Spring Season Closer

Today wrapped up the last week of match play in the SSFL Spring Season. While I at first questioned whether or not I would be able to make it due to a work retreat this weekend, it wasn't hard for me to make a case for having to return to Seoul early. I have been a member of the Spitfires now for almost as long as I have been at DYB. In fact, the differential is only one week as it was my second week here that I went out for my first game.

I'm glad that I did make it back in time as team manager Sun Uk bestowed a rather humbling honor to me today asking if I would allow the referee to take my picture to be used as a nomination for the defensive player of the season! I of course agreed and thanked him profusely for such recognition when all I try and do each week is show up and play!

A Spitfire Veteran!

Anyways, facing the yet undefeated Jokers we didn't go into the game with any intention other than having fun. And that we did!

To everyone's surprise, The Spitfires took the early lead and managed to hold on for quite some time. Even so, the Joker's possessed a team skill that we simply could not match and they eventually pulled even. A bit later, a fluke popup and an unlucky handball in the box gave the Joker's two more, seemingly putting the game out of reach.

With a crack from 20 yards out, Russian exchange student Ivan managed to whip a ball past a diving goalie to keep us in the game. Unfortunately, we weren't able to produce anything else beyond that and had to settle for a game well played. As a defeat was rather eminent from the onset, it was enjoyable simply going out and playing our hardest for the season's last game. To be honest, this had to have been one of our best played matches of the season as we gave this undefeated team a true run for their money. Playing against anyone else in the league we would have had a sound victory! Even so, it wasn't a total personal defeat as somehow I managed to secure the 'Man of the Match' honors for my improvised role at sweeper, a relatively new position for me!

Afterward, Sun treated the team to chicken and beer using the remainder of our 'team fees.' Not entirely sure how we have any left over but he insisted that it was not him paying but rather our collective funds. Either way, it was a great way to end the season!

Though I'm looking forward to the number of friendly matches Sun has promised to organize this summer, I'm saddened that today was likely my last day of league play with the Spitfires. As my contract coincided with the first week of fall play, I will likely have left, or at least be leaving Korea by the time the next season picks up again.

As I mentioned before, of all the things that make up my Korean experience, this team has been at the top of the list. Having something to do that simply does not involve work, teaching, DYB or even Nowon in anyway has been life saving for me. From the time I get on the bus Sunday afternoon to the time I get back off the subway I feel a freedom that I long for all week. To be able to run, play, compete and simply have fun without a care in the world is, well, all I really ask for. On Sunday afternoons at least!

While everyone that I have met through our team has been amazing, here are just a few of those who have helped to make my experience just a little bit more, well, enjoyable! Thanks guys. . .

Our knowledgeable and generous team manager, Sun Uk, who, at the age of 50 still holds his own on the field against a group of rowdy post-adolescent expats.

Hwi Soo, a young soldier who I learned, only the day before he left, not only worked on the US base but in turn spoke almost perfect English.

Tom Anderson, the diplomat and family man. As American as corn on the cob and oversized chili dogs.

Canadian Craig who, after almost a half a dozen years in Korea shows no sign of leaving anytime soon. His recent engagement to a young Korean woman probably sealed the deal but it's great for me as I know where to go to with 'life in Seoul' questions.

Ammar, perhaps our team's biggest asset who we unfortunately lost early on this season due to a serious leg injury. Playing stopper I have nothing more comforting than knowing that he is there to take out anyone who might get by me or to give the ball a good ole' toe kick sending it down to the opposing team's goal line. As an Iraqi immigrant who has been waiting for years now to move to the USA with his American wife, he was recently blessed with both confirmation on his long awaited visa and the arrival of his first child, a beautiful daughter.

Joseph who is, well, a teenager at heart. He loves girls, cars, soccer, and did I say girls? A great 'kid' who is always eager to make plans though we've yet to ever follow through on any.

My fellow American and closest teammate with regards to not only age, education and position but geographical origin as well is David Hartley who hails from Grand Rapids, Michigan. Returning 'home' in the fall to begin law school, David has been a great role model if you will for me, assuring me that there are others who come here for a year and do in fact plan on returning Stateside, unscathed. (On a side note, I found it ironic that recent import Steve is now Dave's coworker. Small world, smaller Seoul.)

I can't not mention our goalie Han Dong Shin whose name is aptly abbreviated on his jersey as HanDS! He's there to cover my numerous faults and is always friendly on and off the field, despite the touch situations we love to put him in.

Though it is evident that he is often frustrated with our team's management or lack of, relative newbie Jake always shows a load of patience that easily escapes our other teammates.

Twins Jun Ho and Jun Suk who are of Korean decent but hail from Germany are simply a riot! They'll scream to each other in German, switch to Korean without hesitation and then break out a grammatically perfect but otherwise hilarious English that has a tinge of both Korean and German in it! Oh yeah, and did I mention they are killer scorers?!

James, or, as Nate refers to him, Banana Boy, has saved a number of lives on the pitch due to the fact that, well, he'll sometimes show up to games armed with giant bunch of bananas. These little yellow packages do wonders for extra energy and to flush out the rest of an all nighter in the 'Twon. A great guy and a solid player he's even invited us all over for a BBQ next Sunday. . .while the girlfriend is out of town!

Hailing form Japan, Nikki, though often absent due to work, is also a pleasure to play with and know. His flawless English is the product of many years in the States and elsewhere as he travels the world for, well, no one really knows why!


There are plenty of others who come and go as our team must be one of the most dynamic in the league. While often billed as a foreigner's league, I've never seen anything to indicate that this is the case and I'm certainly glad it's not. I am lucky to have played (be playing) on a team that is so diverse in age, language, and nationality. According to the league's website, we Spitfires hail from nine unique countries, all of which have produced some mighty fine amateur footballers if I do say so myself! I've heard other teams pride themselves on being homogeneous which, to me, simply seems like a waste of an experience.

To be honest, I wouldn't trade my Sunday afternoons for anything!

And Then There Were Three. . .

So begins the Korean adventures of neighborhood friend and longtime classmate Steve Greene!

Welcome Steve!
(Check out Steve's blog for more on his experience in the Land of the Morning Calm.)

Wednesday morning I uncomfortably was awoken by an early morning phone call from an unrecognizable number. Hitting silent and rolling back over I realized that I had just hung up on a 517 my area code at home. This seemed all too strange as normally when people call from the States, or Skype, it comes up as 'Hidden.' I tried to call the number back but was told that it didn't exist. Only then did I remember Steve telling me that he had purchased a 517 number from Skype so that he can receive incoming 'local' calls.

While the last time I checked in with Steve he still hadn't heard anything about his flight out to Korea, I didn't second guess the possibility that he had been booked and shipped out with 24 of us speaking, certainly not leaving time to contact anyone with the news. This call had to be from him.

Unwillingly, I rose from my couch and stumbled to the computer where I, sure enough, found Steve in the world wide Skype-o-sphere. He informed me that he had arrived a few hours before at Incheon and since been wandering around his new digs in Cheonho, just south of the great Han River.

I suggested we meet up for breakfast and said that I'd try and rouse Nate whom I'm sure was soundly sleeping. This was after all at 9:00am and it's not like we have real jobs to get to or anything! (On that note, a girl I met the other night noted that her current situation was akin to a 'waiter's life,' I completely understand, and agree.)

A few hours later Nate and I popped out of Samgakji Station, certain that it would take a miracle for Steve to do the same. Alas, after only 15 minutes or so a bewildered Greene rose from the depths of Samgakji Station, Exit 10. From there it was only a quick walk north towards the USO Canteen and a real American breakfast! Or so I thought. . .

Alas, we showed up just a few minutes to late for the grand-slam-breakfast that I was eagerly looking forward to. Even so, I settled for a home cooked chili 'n cheese burger with a side of black coffe, and a mango Snapple to boot. This exhausted the last of my USD that I had collected in change from my backpack upon arriving, and returning from the Gras.

After 'breakfast' we took Steve up and out to lunch in Junggye, to show him 'life as we know it.' Munching gimbap on the corner of Eunhang Sa-geori is about as exciting as it gets here in northern Nowon, but hey, that's life. After showing him around Dootavil we sent him back reeling towards his new home as Nate and I took off for another exciting day at DYB.

That wouldn't be the last of Steve that we saw on Wednesday however as he came back to find us at the end of work. Wanting to introduce him proudly to a number of Korean traditions, we headed straight out for the nearest chicken hof were Steve got more than his fill of yangyam chicken, soju, and The Sound of Vitality. Not wanting to send him back in a cab alone, Steve sent up camp at my place for the evening and got his first taste of loft life.

I didn't see Steve again until Saturday morning when we had agreed to meet up and check out his neck of the woods. Unfortunately, Nate wasn't able to come as he took off this weekend for Tokyo and won't be returning until Wednesday morning. Shhhh, don't tell his students though as Anna told me today that he can't tell anyone or else parents will take their kids out of DYB. Why, you might ask. Well because of swine flu of course! Not to over generalize but, I have never encountered a more ridiculously paranoid culture.

Anyways. . .green Line 7 down to Gunja, hope on purple Line 5 and get off at Cheonho, where one can transfer to the pink Line 8, if need be. Out exist three and 300 meteres down on your left you'll find a large brown apartment building. Go to room 1406, on the top floor, and you'll find, well Steve.

The Kid's New Digs

All I can say about his place is, well, I would love to have a real shower, counter space and sure wish someone had left me a bunch of leather couches! Other than that, it's very Korean. Small, efficient, and surrounded by other apartments. Though I do admit that the view from the 14th floor is somewhat more spectacular than from the fourth!

After breaking in the already broken in couches, we headed out on the town to wander around his new neighborhood. We soon decided to head towards Olympic Park where neither Nate nor I have yet to visit in Seoul. . .oops!

On our way, we got a call from Steve's new coworker, and my Spitfire teammate, David, letting us know about a baseball game later that day. David also offered to take me to a store where he had saw Sanuks on sale only a few days ago. Knowing that I was in the market for a new pair this was an extremely kind gesture that I readily accepted.

So, in order to make the game in time, Steve and I hauled through Olympic Park only stopping for a handful of pictures and a melon popsicle, a hot day mainstay!

One of the 200+ art installations in Olympic Park with the swimming complex in the background.

On the other side we met David at Mongchongtoseong Station, just beneath his Parkview pad. We headed towards Jamsil station where we descended into a sprawling underground arcade that doubles as the entrance to Lotte World. Down a long hallway we entered a shoe store, Athletes Foot where I was shocked to find a small display of Sanuk sidewalk surfers. By this point in my journey I've already contact Sanuk and asked them to direct me to a dealer in Seoul yet they have been unable to do so. Thus, this was a welcome surprise.

Unfortunately, the shoes they had on display are essentially the exact same ones I currently own and what I'm looking for is a new pair in one of their more rugged styles to hopefully guide me on my way throughout SE Asia. I didn't pick up a pair just then but it's good to know where to find 'em if i can't build up the gall to order yet another pair of shoes online (as neither of the last two have fit).

Peace Gate at Olympic Park

Okay, okay, back to the point. From Jamsil we hopped on the subway two stops over to the Sports Complex where, for 8,000 won, we were able to pick up seats in the Yellow Section for a game between the LG Twins and the Doosan Bears. As Joseph has made it known on more than one occasion that he is a huge fan of Doosan, I could only cheer for the later team. Good thing too as we ended up sitting in the Doosan section!

National Anthem-ing

Matter of fact, we didn't actually really sit in any section as we rather were forced to plop down in the aisle on concrete stairs. Apparently, we had arrived much to late to get a chunk of 7 seats together as many of the die hard fans, a breed of which everyone at the game is obviously of, arrive unreasonably early to scout out spots. Good thing we paid for the cheap seats cause, well, that's what we ended up getting!

Thunder Sticks!

The game was an absolute blast and even though Doosan lost, everyone had a fantastic time. The energy in the stadium was simply unreal and I'm sure not matched in the States except for the biggest of events. Keep in mind too that this was a top ranked team playing a last ranked team and not once did the stadium grow quiet. The only thing I can think of to compare the energy to is that of a European soccer match, though I've never actually been to one!

Both sides are constantly engaged in back and forth cheering, seemingly without any jeering. Everything is always positive and even the worst batter on the team gets his name chanted when up to bat, no matter how many times he strikes out!

As the sun fell and so did the Bears, we decided to get out before everyone else made the same move. At the top of the 9th we seemed to be some of the only people making our way towards the gates despite the game being over long, long ago!

Nightime at Jamsil Stadium!

With a handful of Steve's coworkers, two of whom I play soccer with (or, one with and one against) we made it to a highly acclaimed Shabu Shabu restaurant that I've heard about for months. While it was certainly delicious, I'm not by any means going to recommend it over our local spot. Sure, the broth was thick and spicy while ours is a bit watery, but we get a much better selection of vegetables and no one, I mean no one can argue with the cup of icy plum tea that finishes the meal!

From Shabu Shabu it was off to Gold Bar where we spent the rest of the night playing terrible pool, playing with a husky, sipping on delicious cocktails and discussing the following day's Han River derby between the two teams in our club, Spitfires and Harriers. On that note, all that needs to be said is that the Harriers got their plate cleaned as we Spitfires tore through their lines with remarkable precision executed beautiful by our newest Korean recruits, aptly named Dragon and Star!

While I've got less than 80 days to go here in Seoul, Steve is just getting started so don't forget to visit him every so often and listen in on a fresh perspective of life on the Han.

And she looked just like Kita, for those of you who know!