Chusok!

So, as promised, although a little late, I give to you here an account of my Chusok holiday! I feel obliged to for a number of reasons including a) I've said that I would do so b) I have nothing much better to write about as of now and c) it's one of two holidays that we get 'off' during the year so it better have been worth writing about!

Anyways, early last week, or I guess two weeks ago now, Nate and I were 'lesson planning' in the Native Room when all of a sudden two teachers, Julia and Cleo come running into the room giggling. In a very secretive manner they ask if we want to go out to dinner and a club with them on Saturday, the day before Chusok. Clearly having no social calender to check for availability and no relatives to be visiting over the family holiday, what other option did we have but to oblige! Agreeing to go, they told us that it was very important we did not tell any of the other teachers (odd, but okay) and to await further instructions later in the week.

At first Nate and I believed this was some sort of double date that we had just been roped in to and feverishly tried to devise a way out of what would potentially be a horrendously awkward evening! Luckily, it turned out that we were not the only FT's invited but Harry (New York what!) and David (a former E.L. resident) had been asked to come to. . .with a similar degree of secrecy involved. Not fully understanding why this evening was to be kept so quiet, or really who to keep it from, Harry ended up mentioning it to Bryn (a bloke from across the pond), whom he works with. Turns out that this was not to the liking of the Korean Teachers who were upset, but grudgingly extended an invitation for Bryn to join us as well. Not exactly sure if my observations are correct, but it seems like Koreans (or at least those we work with) adopt a very disdainful attitude towards the English, overtly favoring American teachers. . . I mean, rightly so though!

We hurd little more of our outing until the day before, Friday, when Cleo came into the Native Room and told us where to meet: 7:00pm outside Exit 1 at Hyewha Station. We were again reminded to ensure that the event was kept secret. It turns out, thanks to Nate's diligent investigatory work, that there is a deep divide between the teachers that we work with. Well, more accurately, it's between the teachers that we don't work with and those that we do.

For some reason, the Korean teachers in our branch have managed to divide themselves in to two factions. The younger and perhaps more rebellious group is that lead by Cleo and Julia of which Ji Young, Michelle, and Claire are also seemingly members. For some reason, this first clique has managed to separate itself sharply from the older and more respected teachers that we work with, Anna, Moong Young and Hannah. Why exactly this schism exists and what exactly it means. . .we haven't the slightest clue. . .however now that we have been made aware of it, it is as obvious as day! While the later three teachers seem to care little about such petty matters, Cleo and her 'followers' seem to go to great lengths to avoid contact or interaction with 'others.' For example, sitting in Moon Young's class yesterday, Cleo snuck up to the doorway, carefully peeked in making sure Moon Young wasn't around, ran in, gave me a small gift, and took off again without a word! It really is hilarious and too inexplicable using only words!

Anyways, we had talked to Harry the night before and agreed to meet sometime around five in order to go to Hyehwa together. A few minutes before we were scheduled to meet, I gave Harry a call asking him if he was ready. Interestingly he informed me that he had already left and was with his Grandmother but that I should contact Bryn who we were to go with. Nate and I headed up to Bryns room as Harry instructed, only to find him fresh out of the shower, not expecting to leave for at least another half hour. We told him no problem as our scheduled meeting time was way earlier than necessary to begin with, per request of now absent Harry.

Even after waiting for Bryn, we still made it to Hyehwa Station with plenty of time to spare. In fact, it was enough time for us all to run into the GS25 to grab coffee and soda as the subway ride had just about put the three of us to sleep. Having eaten only one meal at this point, due to our abnormal schedule, Nate decided to lay out a preemptive strike on his hunger by darting in to MacDonalds, just in case dinner posed to be less than delectable.

We eventually met up with everyone else who arrived either by subway, foot, or apparation. All in all the group turned out to be much larger, thank goodness, than we had originally anticipated. Foreign Teachers ended up greatly outnumbering Koreans as Ji Young, Cleo and Julia had managed to pull together a group of six FT's; Me, Nate, Harry, Bryn, David and Andre, Harry's friend from L.A. who works at another Hogwan in the area.

Turning our attention towards dinner, we headed down a back alleyway that opened up in to a bustling street full of restaurants, cafes, bars, and of course, norebongs. We wandered around for a bit following Cleo and Julia as they searched for a suitable restaurant. . .and silly us, thinking that they actually had made plans! Finally, after much discussion and numerous backtracks, they decided on a "Fire Chicken" restaurant. In typical Korean fashion, Nate and I were repeatedly asked, even by the Korea Americans, if we would be okay with spicy food. Insisting that we could handle it we nevertheless were badgered with worried comments about our ability to consume fire chicken.

True to it's name, fire chicken is rather spicy but after four years of Chef Mike and Tabasco laden cooking it really wasn't that bad. Given, you had to stop and take a pause between each piece but overall the meal was fantastic. We washed everything down with a fruit soju ordered by Harry and Andre. While I expected this concoction to be no more than a slightly flavored version of the Korean firewater, it turned out to be a rather pleasant drink made of pure fruit juice mixed with an almost unnoticeable amount of soju.

In typical fashion Bryn left just as we were clearing out of dinner, claiming that he was going to Itaewon to meet up with friends. . .validity? No clue, but after the past few work get-togethers I don't ever expect him to last very long, no matter the reason! Leaving dinner, it was determined by the majority of the party that it was too early to head towards the Hongik University area, also known as Hongdae, where we supposedly had late night plans. Rather than wander aimlessly, we all moved just down the block take a rest at a large outdoor patio. We spent the next hour or so talking and avoiding surprise attacks from the very abundant feline population! Finally, it was decided that our next move should be to none other than a norebong, or Korean karaoke room!

To give you an idea of just how much Korean's love their karaoke, I have been to a norebong at least three times already in only one month. . .the last time being this past Monday night (Tuesday morning) with our boss, Mr. Lee. While I too am I big proponent of making a fool of yourself in public places, norebongs have removed the public aspect of karaoke that I so enjoy. Rather, you have the opportunity to engage in ridiculous singing in a small room accompanied by only those who came with. Being in a smaller room, of course the volume is always near deafening. As an added bonus neon lights, laser shows and Korea music videos are always present to complete the full sensory experience that is a norebong! Oh yeah, and the song list is of course the same from place to place and English tunes are limited to primarily those you would never want to sing! Seriously though, this is a great time. . . other than getting whacked in the tooth (only minor damage, not noticeable until up close) with a microphone from Cleo!

Having exhausted our voices and dancing feet, someone decided that it would still be a good idea to go 'clubbing' in Hongdae. With little idea what to expect, we agreed, having really no say in the matter as saying 'no' just simply isn't an option with KT's. . . .believe us, we've tried insistently before! Claiming Chusok obligations, and using his native tongue Korean, David managed to escape before the remaining six of us piled into taxis headed towards Hongdae.

Nate and I both jumped in the first cab along with our guide, Ji Young, as we both work, and therefore are slightly more comfortable with her as opposed to Cleo or Julia whom we barely know! The ride was rather mellow however as Ji Young explained to us that she wouldn't be returning to Junggye branch the following week as she had been transferred by HQ. While this news was sad, in that Ji Young had actually really begun to open up to us, it was not in fact news as Joseph had notified us of her transfer a few days before. . .sighting some of the same reasons that I had previously gripped about in regards to her class! I guess sometimes you get what you ask for. . .we'll see how it plays out.

Pulling up to our destination we were surprised to see that everyone else was already there. . . hmmm didn't we leave first? We weren't out of the taxi for more than five minutes before wandering up to some street hustlers. This 'date game', if you will, consisted of a stack of plastic sheets, connected in the middle, that the patron is expected to punch down through. If one is able to break all of the pretend boards in no more than two blows, they win a giant plush teddy bear! How fantastic. . .

Now of course given the chance to punch something for a prize in the presence of women Harry immediately jumped at this opportunity. Putting on the soft fabric glove they provide for protection (scam?), he proceeded to make his way through the boards in two blows, putting down about half each time. Cleo immediately accepted the prize bear as her own and attention turned to the next biggest guy in the group. . .Nate! Having no intention, nor desire to play the game, he attempted to refuse for as long as possible. . .however, as I've said before, refusing a request from a Korean, especially ones that you work with, is simply impossible to do. I split the absurd price of entry with him so that we could give the giant novelty to one of the other KT's and claim it as a dual gift (aren't we kind).

Before going, Nate leaned over to reassure me that his hand, injured years ago, would certainly break if he did this. Not heading his own advice, or perhaps simply unable to get away with not doing so, Nate stepped up to the plate(s). BAM! His first punch railed through the majority of the boards, putting Harry's initial blow to shame. Nate immediately recoiled, holding his hand tenderly. . .uh oh! No time to waste, he still had one punch left and a stupidly over sized bear to win! Not able to go again with his right, Nate switched gloves over to his left and and pounded his way through the few remaining plates! Alas, a bear was ours! Or. . .Ji Young's to be more precise as we felt she certainly deserved an overstuffed prize as consolatory gift.

Finally we headed in the direction of loud music and bright lights that must be the Hongdae strip, with our two new furry companions in tow. Again we wandered aimlessly as the girls continued to ask us where we would like to go. . .as if we a) knew anything about where we were and furthermore b) had an opinion on the matter! After poking our heads into a few places, we eventually descended the steps into one of the loud, crowded music basements of Hongdae. Once inside we took up literally the only available room in the club, a short section of wallspace between the bathrooms! Hanging on to two giant bears, we must have been quite a funny bunch, literally slammed up against the wall.

Nevertheless, that didn't last long as I Nate and I decided to head up for air and water after being down in the cavern for no more than 10 minutes! We clearly had no intention of returning, though we might have suggested we would, and were surprised to see everyone else, except for Andre, emerge only a few minutes after we had left. At this point Harry decides it's time to go home and somehow manages to take Cleo with him. . . interesting in that Harry has a girlfriend and Cleo might have at least a half a decade on him. Anyways. . .Nate and I figured it was a good time to make a run for it so we said thanks to Ji Young and Julia then took off with no particular place to go.

Just down the road we managed to find a haven for young men put off by the overcrowded sweaty mess that are the Hongdae clubs. A brightly lit sign led us to a small store front that provided patrons with two options: target shooting and batting cages. We spent the next while taking turns gunning down little targets with high powered, and surprisingly accurate, airsoft guns. Running out of fuel, monetary and caloric, we headed back out to the street to pick a new destination. Just then Andre comes rolling down the street seemingly in an aimless wander as we had been when finding the place. He told us that he had just passed Julia and Ji Young eating down the street. . . hmm and we thought those girls were going to call it a night!

Proud of our find, we convinced Andre to engage in a round of target practice which, as we expected, he enjoyed. Nate then decided it was time to show off his batting prowess in the cage, vi sable to passerbys from the street. So, while Andre and I stood outside watching, Nate entered the cage and gingerly picked up a bat. Deciding that there was no way he could use his 'punching' hand, he grabbed the bat in his left hand and decided to take a whack at whatever came. This turned out to be a terrible idea. One swing and we saw him drop the bat, grab his shoulder and come stumbling out. Not wanting to waste any pitches, and not about to hop in front of the balls myself, I yelled at Andre to get in there and finish the job, which he did.

Meanwhile, I attended to my injury prone friend who had seemingly thrown out his shoulder. This we deduced from his inability to lift his arm past a certain point. As the only one around, medical consultation immediately became my expertise. I rubbed down each shoulder in search of an external noticeable difference. I found none and concluded that everything must be in working order. Nate again tried to raise his arm, still not able to do so more than halfway. Not really believing that he was giving it his all, I grabbed his arm and helped him lift it. As we passed the halfway point, all of a sudden we heard a big pop and. . .well, that was that. Everything was back in working order! I'm just glad I was there to help, ha!

After giving such grueling medical attention I had worked up quite an appetite and the three of us agreed that we should grab a bit to eat. Andre led us to a crowded spot where people were gathered on a large patio, walled and covered with tarp. Using his (very) broken Korean, Dre managed to order us a large bubbling plate of fried chicken pieces which we immediately began to devour. He then insisted on showing us a few 'traditional' Korean drinking games he know, prolonging our quick bite to quite the extended meal. At some point, though we're not quite sure when, Andre manged to get up for the bathroom and never return. . . Interesting.

Never mind, Nate and I were having to good of a time to let a little dine-and-dash spoil our fun. We quickly engaged in conversation with the table next to us playing a seemingly similar game. We invited them over to join us and the two young men turned out to be pilots in the Korean airforce. They ended up providing great company for a rather long while as they not only spoke decent English but had a wealth of interesting knowledge to share! Finally, what must have been hours after we originally sat down, Nate and I decided to close out our tab, that Andre had so kindly racked up for us, and head towards a taxi. It's always good to get home before daybreak, especially if you're not under the control of, and therefor able to blame, your boss!

To compliment our fun filled Chusok-Eve, we passed the majority of Sunday by simply relaxing, as Chusok is meant to be spent! We eventually headed over to the Playstation-bong in the early evening as it was one of the only places open on this national holiday. No sooner had we sat down did Joseph call and tell us not to eat anything! He said that we should meet him at his apartment around 7:30pm and that he was bringing us food home from his big Chusok meal. . .think Thanksgiving leftovers!

We managed to pull ourselves away from comfy lounge chairs and Playstation 3 on HD big screens just before we were supposed to meet Joseph. Arriving at his place we felt bad seeing all the food he had to offer and not having brought anything. No worries, he immediately sent us downstairs to grab some bowls of instant rice seeing as he had none prepared! At least we were able to contribute something!

Joseph spent the next half hour or so cooking up a variety of dishes that he had brought back from his family's big meal. Finally, once everything was ready, and neatly prepared on dozens of small dishes, as usual, we sat down to eat on his couch. Not having the slightest clue where to begin I decided to just follow Josephs lead, taking a little of this, a little of that, a spoon fool of rice and, of course, a bite of kimchi.

While I am now having trouble recalling exactly what all the dishes were I don't feel terrible as Joseph himself was not able to describe them all! He gave a pretty good account of what went into each although he was at a loss for names when I asked. Not wanting to let me down however Joseph immediately called up his mother who helped him name each and everyone of the dishes, which I now have written down! I will try to copy there names using the Korean keyboard at school though I'm not sure if the Korean text comes through to you lowly Statesiders!

Anyways, we feasted on a meal of fish and vegetable patties (possibly held together with egg), meat patties marinated in soy sauce, big chunks of more meat, rice, two kinds of special kimchi, fried vegetable roll thingies and of course, traditional Korean cookies for desert!

The meal was fantastic both culinary speaking and timing-wise seeing as how most everything expect for MacDonald's and ramyeon from the convenience store was unavailable on Chusok day!

So, there you have it! My first Chusok celebration! It wasn't much, but at least I don't feel like I wasted the holiday away! I celebrated with old friends, made some new ones, played doctor and had a traditional Korean feast! Who said Soul is a Seouless city!? Oh yeah. . .maybe that was me, well, not at Chusok at least, that's for sure!

Pictures to come. . .as always!!