Two-fer Tuesday

Inspired by an advertisement for two-for-one fish 'n chips that I noticed in the local expat magazine "The Groove," Nate and I took off yesterday morning headed for the Wolfhound in Itaewon. As the special was advertised for Tuesday's only, we figured that sounded like a good day to try it out. We were further encouraged to embark on this journey having had Wolfhound's cuisine recommended to us by not only other foreigners but a number of our personal senses as well. . .notably those of sight and smell.

Normally we would stick around eunang-sa-kori (our 'four bank corner') in Junggyedong having to be at school in the mid afternoon and earlier if lesson planning is required. Fortunately however, this week, as was the last one, is another study period for the students. This, as you might recall, means that Nate and I are essentially confined to the Native Room all week and left to our own devices, all that is asked of us is that we show up on time and keep out of the way. Easy enough!

We arrived in the 'Twon, a little after noon and were disappointed to find the Wolfhound's doors locked and bolted. Although neither of us were sure about whether the two-for-one was a lunch special or not, we concluded that they would certainly be open by one. So, we spent the rest of the noon hour wandering the Itaewon market in the daylight, a first for Nate and only my second time doing so, following my Halloween shopping adventure.

Our feet carried us down to the end of the Itaewon strip and back up again without setting foot in more than two stores. While I have grown more accustomed to the idea of 'shopping' while here in Korea, I still find it much more relaxing to do from outside then actually in the stores. Two places we did stop however were the Adidas and North Face stores.

At the first, I was looking to pick up a pair of soccer cleats for the spring SSFL season, as I have finally worn out those that I bought with Blade at a cheap sporting goods store in the days following my return to post-K New Orleans. I wasn't just browsing for cleats but rather looking intentionally for a pair of Copas, which, last time I checked, are the world's best selling soccer cleat. A classic Adidas shoe that was one of the first to use the now coveted Kangaroo leather, the Copas are remarkably comfortable yet simple and have undeniably, for generations, set the bar on what a soccer cleat should be.

Unfortunately, they simply cannot be found in Korea. I have now checked a number of sporting goods and Adidas stores to no avail, including the one in Korea's largest underground mall, COEX. The only thing that I can imagine is that the Copas are simply too modest of a shoe for anyone in Korea to consider purchasing, more or less wearing! While the stores that I visited had no problem showing off the newest models of ridiculous looking shoes adorned in fake gold, silver and even a see-through plastic, not one resembled the worlds most revered cleat. Is it too ridiculous to assume that Korea's invisible hand simply does not want to have anything to do with an unassuming shoe? Perhaps. . .but then again, it is Korea we're talking about!

At my second pre-Christmas shopping stop I slid into the North Face store to check out their selection of hiking shoes. Since being in Korea, and more recently, climbing around Namhansamseong in my soaking wet mesh running shoes, I have decided that it's time to invest in a pair of somethings that were meant to get me up a mountain. Sure, my Asics would do the trick, but they do nothing to stop my foot from getting soaked by wet leaves and to be honest, I kinda like how white and shiny they are. . .or, were at least until our hike a few weekends ago.

I putzed around for a while checking out the different options and finally settled on one that met my simple criteria. Not that you're dying to know, but, if you must, I'm looking for a low top hiking boot (which I guess is what one would refer to as either a 'light hiker' or 'trail runner') that offers water protection (Gore-tex) and, preferably, doesn't look like it was designed by Nasa. Oh yeah, those, and that it fit. . .which, apparently, is the biggest problem.

The first shoe I pulled down to try on unfortunately only came in 'ladies sizes.' Too bad too as I really like it. I grabbed the model next to it, in a more manly shade of green and grey, but again was told that it was only for 'ladies.' This was starting to get embarrassing! I took another shot and managed to correctly guess my sex, but was soon informed that the shoe didn't come in a 285 (which, is what size I believe I am but have yet to find and try on, despite most places claiming that 285 is the largest size they carry).

About ready to give up, I asked the clerk (retailer/assistant, what do you call someone that helps you try on shoes?) if any of the shoes did in fact come in a 285. At this point, she grabbed another employee (is that it?) who apparently is better with numbers than the first. He wandered in back and came out to inform me that the only footwear they carried in a 285 were the two enormous boots that looked more apt for strapping into a snowboard than for going for a refreshing climb. I said not thanks and turned to hit the pavement, in my slightly worn and no longer shiny Asics. Oh well!

Back at the Wolfhound, slightly after one o'clock, Nate and I were again disappointed to find the doors still sealed. That does it we figured, we couldn't wait around all day for Irish fish 'n chips, we'd have to go find 'em elsewhere. Just around the corner we decided to head upstairs to Gecko's as the music blaring from the patio suggested that they were in fact open at this hour. Inside we were greeted by an inattentive wait staff that dropped off menus and returned only after we hollered for someone to please take our order!

While a full menu of Western cuisine seemed overwhelming at first, (shall I have the pizza sub or the burger?!) we figured out our choices pretty quickly, decided that if we came all this way for fish 'n ships then, by golly, we'd have our fish 'n chips! Thankfully Gecko's kitchen staff works at twice the speed of their wait staff otherwise we'd have had to take our meal on the subway back with us. Waiting for our food Nate and I discussed the December issue of another expat magazine, "Eloquence." Our discussion came to a screaching halt as we were presented with two hot plates of, well, fish, and, chips. . .well, fries to be exact, but, isn't that kinda the same thing!?

Though we didn't get it two-for-one, we agreed that our Gecko's meal was more than satisfying and well worth the subway journey. Full and happy we headed back up to Junggye to put in a day of work doing. . .well, nothing!

Lucky for us, a little more than halfway through our work 'day,' Joseph came barging into the Native Room with a 'present' for us. Apparently, he had realized that neither of us was doing anything productive and had requested to our teachers (whom had all told us to do nothing) that we be allowed to leave. We thanked him profusely and were for a moment, confused as to what to do, having worked all the way until 10:30 at night every other weekday. Well, that confusing lasted about a second as we turned to each other and declared, more than asked, "fish 'n chips!?!"

This might be the only Tuesday evening we ever get off here in Korea and we weren't going to let Wolfhound's special get away from us that easily! We quickly shed our bags back at Dootavill and hoped in a cab headed for Hagye. . .not time for the bus this evening if we were to get to Itaewon and back before the last train left for the night.

No longer than forty five minutes after leaving Junggye, we emerged, for the second time that day, from Itaewon station, although this time in the more familiar dark of night. We flipped around the corner and were relieved to see the Wolfhound's doors open wide. Darting upstairs we were too hungry, and excited, to notice that Irish music (I don't know what you call whatever it is that you 'jig' to) was blaring over the sound system.

It took us no time to grab a table, call a waiter over and verify that we were still in the running for two-for-one fish n' chips! He confirmed our suspicion and thus I asked for two orders. He suggested that we get one to share and I responded that we would each like our own order please. I was informed that this meant we would receive four dishes. Okay. . .so, we'll take one order than please, whatever it takes to get us each fish 'n chips pal, just fork 'em over!

This time while waiting for our food we were entertained by the half dozen or so dancers who were clearly enjoying dance night at the Irish pub. Not entirely sure how many were legit and how many were just there learning but I'm pretty sure that the old bearded man who spoke an unidentifiable form of English was in fact Irish while the pregnant, and I dooo meean pregnant, Korea woman was most likely not.

While our wait was a bit longer, scarfing down my second meal of fish 'n chips on the day was well worth it! The Wolfhound managed to serve up two mean plates of this Irish pub classic dish and for a measly 12,000 won between the two of us! Now that was worth waiting all day for!

Though I know it seems silly to those who might never eat fish 'n chips, or might think that one order every few months is all they can handle, having two in a day is actually a rather unique experience that I high recommend. It offers one a rare opportunity to compare the dish across restaurants while ensuring some sort of a control is held. . .that of, well, really only the date. Why might one do this you ask. . .well, so that not only did I in fact get to enjoy the Tuesday two-for-one that I will likely never have an opportunity to again, but now I get to offer you, a biased, unfair, wholly subjective comparison of the fish 'n chips at two of Itaewon's most visited foreigner hang outs. The results are as follows. . .

Quantity--This one is a toss up as I finished both meals feeling equally satisfied and by no means craved any additional food after consuming either. This is a good sign!

Quality--While again it was close, The Wolfhound takes the cake here for one primary reason. Though the quantity of total food was similar, Gecko's offered three smaller pieces of heavily battered fish while The Wolfhound served only two. These two pieces however were much thicker and meatier meaning you get a lot more fish for your fry, which, while some of you might prefer it the other way around, I certainly enjoyed.

Tartar Sauce--No argument here. For both Nate and I Gecko's was the clear winner here with what tasted like a fresh homemade batch of my favorite dipping sauce that was made all the much better by the distinct flavor of fresh dill. Oh yeah, and the Wolfhound didn't have any vinegar to offer either!

Presentation--Again, no contest. Even for lunch Gecko's served our meals on a big ole' platter while The Wolfhound's came in a shoddy wax paper lined basket. Sure, it looked 'authentic' but who really enjoys picking wax paper out of your teeth after your meal? Not me!

Value--Well, Gecko's 11,000won lunch price ain't bad but. . . you can't argue with the two-fer-Tuesday deal offered up by Wolfhound!

Atmosphere--This is harder to decide and a bit more biased as we visited one during the day and one in the evening. However, I'm gonna have to conclude that unless you're looking to listen to Gaelic music and drink Guinness poured right then Gecko's is your spot. It's got a great location with a view overlooking of the busiest corners in the most ridiculous part of this absurd city. Furthermore, the chairs are plush and comfortable where as at the Wolfhound we had to hold on to the table for fear of our chairs collapsing.

Final Decision--Fish 'n Chips is Fish 'n Chips; both the Wolfhound and Gecko's know hot to make 'em right! If you're out on a Tuesday, and, you don't mind a bit o' jiggin' with your meal, then there's no reason you shouldn't stop by the Wolfhound. If you're into homemade sauces or prefer a room with a view, Gecko's is your spot. Either way, you're gonna get a great meal that'll leaving you feeling plenty satisfied but not too done in. Wherever you go and whatever you do afterwards. . .well, that's up to you, but remember, when it comes down to it, it's just another day in the 'Twon.